Removing A None Load Bearing Wall??

samiam

i would like to remove a wall that isn't load bearing
the wall is a dividing wall that sepirates a bedroom and a hallway
opening it up to be a living/family room
the house is a capecod with 1 bedroon centered up stairs so the bedroom is center on the load bearing wall the wall to be removed is only 38" from the load bearing wall
the ceiling for the new room is 2x8 and spans 14ft
is 2x8 spaning 14ft sufficent to hold the weight
i don't see a problem but would like some other opinions
thanks

Cole

When you want to demo walls you always think of how the wall was put together. Start with the last thing that would have been done working your way to the studs.

Start with the trim and so on...

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samiam

my question is can a 2x8 span 14ft it is spanning 11ft now if i remove the wall it will now be a 14ft span
also they are 16 on center
sorry about he confussion

mickeyco

Not sure what you're asking, if the wall is not load bearing the removal of the wall should have no effect. Make sure it is not load bearing.

Before tearing down the wall make sure you know what's in it, I've been surprised a few times. Some of the things you might find are duct work or hot water heat pipes, electrical, plumbing (supply, drain, vent) and some other stuff I'm not thinking of.

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works4me

With a cape cod you probably don't have access to area above or you could install a boars back (what we call it anyway - kind of an upside down beam in the attic - mostly we do in ranches). It you are worried the span is extending your 2x8s beyond their load limit put a header in (even opening up something like that most or just part of the way can do alot). If its not load bearing (then you are saying the 2x8's were originally designed to span to the other wall) - but maybe you are concerned that they have "settled" some weight on the wall you want to remove? If your not sure always play it on the safe side. Get some one who has done several wall removal jobs to look at it if you can. And heed what Mick just said "anything" could be in that wall. We sometimes prewarn HO that we will tear one side drywall down to look and costs could go crazy and may have to just drywall closed again.

samiam

the drywall is removed
there is a drain pipe at the veryend which i will boxin this will provide some support right were the corner used to be
the load bearing wall isn't on the center line of the house
it is 10ft off the rear of the house and and is 14ft from the front
the max any 2x8 spans now is about 10ft in the rear (kitchen)
the wall to be removed doesn't have any weight on it
there are a few 2x4s in it that are cut shy and the "gap" is still at the top
the house is about 30 years old i think it would have closed these few gaps
if there was any weight on them
thanks

jmic

IMO 2x8's for a 14" span is pushing the envelope so to speak. I would at least double up every other one with another 2x8 to keep the floor above from being springy .

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Tom M

I just spent the last few days saving a bathroom built over 2x8 joist 14ft long. It sagged 1 3/8 over each bay plus ones not bearing the bathroom. This was a bad design. Sounds like your situation is better but if you could rip a new joist down about a 1/2 to 3/4 inch and sister the thing it would be best. Bearing on the exterior walls of course.