?? Removing A Load Bearing Wall

bamaboy

I want to take out a load bearing wall to double the size of my bedroom. My idea is to span the 11' with a beam, but instead of having it drop down from the ceiling 10"-12" ( how big does it need to be to span that distance?)
I want to putt it in the attic above the rafters.
Am I crazy or is this a good idea?

dougchips

Check into steel. I have done several with a steel plate in the middle. You can get a steel yard to cut you a plate and drill the holes--you just trace the holes and sandwich with 2x stock. The last one I did went 16' with double jack studs and the steel cost under $100. Get some Friends to help----HEAVY!

__________________
To get the best replacement windows, or sun rooms contact the replacement windows experts at FHI Vinyl Window Company.

Joe Carola

How big of a beam, all depends on what it's carrying above. If it's just ceiling joists, you don't need any steel at all. Even if it was on a first floor and carrying second floor joists you wouldn't need steel for 10-12' unless there was something major up there, but then again you never know and someone would have to look at this. I've put steel I-beams and flitch plates before at 10'

Yes you can put a flush beam in and the ceiling joists will be flush on the bottom with hangers

__________________
Joe Carola

bamaboy

Just ceiling joists, single story.

dayspring

If you are down to the bare framing, which I assume you will be. Simply shore up your ceiling joist one both sides of the load bearing wall. Remove your wall. Layout and cut the joist so you can get your beam between the two sections of joist. Nail joist to beam. Then install your joist hangers. Remove the shoring. Insulate and drywall the rascal!

__________________
"Never met a man yet that I couldn't learn something from"
http://remodelingncarolina.com

clampman

Dayspring,

It sounds to me like he's going to be taking out an 11 foot section of wall that runs parallel to the outside walls.

If so, he should be running a couple of comealongs top plate to top plate (outside walls) before cutting his ceiling joists in half. They are what is holding his walls in place, and his roof up.

But if so, like Joe said, he doesn't even need any beams. In fact, he'd be better off running some one bys (or 2x4 with gussetts) from ridge to a third span on the ceiling joist and back to lower third span on the rafters themselves. In other words, turn them into W trusses - like Joshua's logo in the next post.

Regards,
Jimc

Joshua

If it's a bearing wall, it's probably for a reason. Depending on the age of the house, there would be footings under the wall to reinforce the structure under the loads that it is carrying. You are talking about using a beam to carry the load. What will the beam be bearing on and will it be adequate to carry the loads/transfer the loads into the foundation? Is the foundation reinforced beneath this new bearing point? There are a lot of things that need to be considered before you start tearing down walls and modifying the structural integrity of your house. If you are uncertain, I would consult a professional engineer.

72chevy4x4

If it is a load bearing wall, what is bearing down on it? a previous post said 'ceiling joists'-I can't picture what this looks like if the bearing wall is joining two rooms. Can you add a sketch? sounds as if your wall may not be carrying a lot of weight, and if true steel is not likely necessary.

reveivl

When you take out a load bearing wall the load doesn't vanish, it gets concentrated into pointloads at the ends of the beam, these loads have to be dealt with all the way to the ground.

__________________
From where does knowledge come? If you need to know what is in a box, you could ask someone (not reliable), you could pray, (not useful), you can consult with the scripture (not helpful) or you could open the box (science)

dayspring

Clampman that sounds reasonable enough. And would work.

As far as the wall being removed holding the exterior wall in place goes that is true, but I kinda doubt it would move much if any with sheathing, siding, soffit, fascia, roof sheathing and possibly rafters, etc attached to the exterior wall. Indeed you would have to make sure, as pointed out above, that the foundation could carry the load on either end of the beam.

__________________
"Never met a man yet that I couldn't learn something from"
http://remodelingncarolina.com