Remodelling New Framing

wallmaxx

Framer builds front entry as directed by GC.
HO would like it bigger.
GC tells framer to make it bigger.
Framer makes it bigger.

For me that's....Think it. Draw it. Build it. Think it [more]. Draw it [again]. Build it [more].

My main concern was...do I tear it all down and start over - 2 days at least and try to salvage some materials. Or could I add on to it without creating an elephant of weight up there - 1 day tops and less material waste.

PS. I like it bigger.

Here's the pix. Fire away.

The Original - 8 foot span over beams


The MOD - 10'-2 1/4" over both new beams

Deicide1

Nice work, for a framer.

OCRS

Will the Ho want the support posts moved farther apart? Do you have any straight on shots of new config?

wallmaxx

There will be two posts on the left and two on the right - pairs.

The inner posts will be bearing...the outer for show.

neolitic

Nice save.


And a neat "WTF" for some
future remodeling guy to
scratch his head over!

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Cole

Great job, figuring out how to work with the existing.

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wallmaxx

Latest Pics

Lessons learned.

Huber Zip Roof system breaks down when installed in the rain. The tape DOES NOT stick!!

Brock

Very creative solution.

wallmaxx

Thanks for the comments. My brain is tired. That Zip tape doesn't stick to the wood in thick fog either....so that's what is chappin' me right now.



This is what I like about this CT forum. We can share our collective experiences and be somewhat "ready" for the next hiccup.

In my younger days I would have been p*ssed about having to redo perfectly acceptable work. But my best friend taught me...if they are paying you to do it over...do it and get paid. Can't argue with German logic.

rbsremodeling

How big are the columns going to be or the tops and base?

The width of the overhangs where the columns are going to set to support it looks awfully wide in one of the photos.

Wondering how it will look with the columns under it. Just thinking out loud again

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Brock

Rework is the worst. I don't care if I am being paid extra for it. One of my pet peeves in this business. Unfortunately people change their minds so it's inevitable that it will happen.

wallmaxx

Its supposed to be twin columns on each side...some kind of structural architectural thing...GC hasn't been specific as of yet.

Mike772

Since framing techniques are obviously different in different parts of this country, I would like to ask you a question.

What do you call the 2x you have nailed flat in the valley that the seat custs of the rafters sit on? Do you have a quick method of finding how far back from the actual valley to nail it down, so that the roof plane lands in the valley (if that 2x is just square cut)?

That may sound "dumb", I know. I am a little embarrassed to ask.

In Wisconsin around my area, nobody does that. We snap our valley lines and then nail the rafters on the sheathing in the valley.

I have seen that flat board used in valleys in other pictures and videos around the web. I like the idea of using it. If you have a quick method of locating it and it's name, I would appreciate it.

Before anyone wants to take my ignorant question as a chance to jump on me, I have been framing houses since the 80's. In Wisconsin, we are governed by the UDC, not the IRC, so no it is not illegal per our code and therefore I don't do it "wrong". We also build all of our buildings with trusses. Most builders order a "valley kit" which is a set of trusses which are progressivly smaller which get fastened to the other trusses to form the valley. Myself, I don't like the valley kits so I (as well as many others) hand frame our valleys and we land our valley rafters on the sheathing. That board would make for a stronger valley that wouldn't be so spongy and I wouldn't have to worry about the ice & water or the shingles breaking/tearing when someone walks up the valley later.

Sure, my way is legal and passes inspection and meets the requirements of 40 psf, but I like that way and am willing to learn a new trick and put out a better product. That is if someone is willing to teach an old dog a new trick.

Btw, nice fix wallmax. A lot faster than having to tear down the smaller structure and start from scratch. Very creative.

Brock

Poptwo linea from where your ridge planes in. Hold 1x10- 1 inch inside line to allow for plywood.

doubleaction

Looks good

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wallmaxx

For this application I just visually plane across the top of the porch rafters and have someone adjust the lay-on valley board accordingly. I was never taught to pop a line, since the board has "thickness" a popped line would be in the wrong location. You could also use a level, as a straight edge, across the top of the intersecting roof system.

Gold Tie

I call it a valley pad. I do it just like wallmaxx but alot of times I do pop a line as both an angle finder and a reference line. I than take the top edge of the pad and butt it into the ridge. Plane the top edge of the pad with the top edge of the ridge and measure to my popped reference line, making it the same all the way down and checking it at the plate line before I nail it off.

Brock

Actually me too. However we sometimes have a valley that is more than 20' long which is longer than the 1 x 10. I always thought that the valley pad was required. I can't imagine someone actually nailing a valley rafter into plywood only. That's very scary to me.

Mike772

Thanks for the responses!

Some of you guys discussed a 1x10 as a "valley pad". In the picture wallmax has, it looks like 2x material. I suppose it is personal preference which to use or convienence of which is on hand. Thanks for the replys and maybe my next hand framed valley I will give this a try. I like the concept of stiffening the valley better than what I have been doing.

No, "valley pads" are not required in all fifty states. (yet) Like I said, Wisconsin uses the Uniform Dwelling Code as its building code. I know most of you guys talk about the IRC, or something similar. I don't know if those two codes are related or if one is derived from the other. Either way, my code does not require them. Let me also state that all codes are the minimum. Just because something is required doesn't mean that I can't do it to offer a better product. It would probably blow your mind what isn't required with trusses and what we do with them, yet still obtain our 40psf. It isn't that we are incompetent, it is that we were taught that way and no other way is required. Doesn't necessarily mean it is "right" either.

So again, thankyou for your patience for explaining something that is probably pretty common knowlege with you guys.

rbsremodeling

Who erases all the pencil marks and measurements written everywhere?

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