Reason 2 Truss . . . Would U?

 
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Old 09-02-2009, 06:05 PM   #41
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Re: Reason 2 Truss . . . Would U?


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For you cut-it-on-site-from-sawn-lumber types, here is the same little roof scheme done all in sticks, with sizing of members all figured for our loadings.

The four-pair end (as seen in plan) is unchanged, as it was sticks before. The rest was all trusses in the earlier scheme, and is all sticks now. As you can see, the "greatroom" end that had the 25'4" scissors, and the dormer with its funky scissors and valley sets, now requires a second "roof" be framed underneath to make up the vaulted ceilings.

The ridge over the big part is a two-ply 1.75x14. All other ridges and valleys are single LVLs at 1.75x11.875.

Rafters are 2x10 if spanning full. The dormer rafters are 2x8. All are 24 on center, and the design is conservative, figuring all the snow loading and drift factors. Sheathing is 5/8 OSB.
Gene,

I think my crew could frame and sheathe that in a day. That assumes we already had rakewalls up and the overhangs on the gables done when we framed walls.

But I'd figure 2 days to make sure. I'm thinking that trusses would be quite a bit more than the stick materials, so I think it might come out a wash in the end.

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Old 09-02-2009, 07:45 PM   #42
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Re: Reason 2 Truss . . . Would U?


Well, thanks, Tim! It is pretty clear now that the cost premium for trusses over sticks will exceed the labor premium for a frame that is all-sticks.

To show this better, I have turned on the layers for the walls and floors, and you can see in this pic how far up that roof is off the floor, at the "greatroom" end of this little vacation home. That man on the main floor has a 2x4x8 standing next to him.

I also threw in a Lull telehandler, a piece of equipment not available to any of the very few pro framing crews we have up here in the north country. This roof will have to be erected using scaffolding and planking, and a lot of plain old manpower.
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Old 09-02-2009, 07:47 PM   #43
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Re: Reason 2 Truss . . . Would U?


gene,
looks good. you could just frame with 2x12's and use r-38c insulation that would leave a 1" air space for ventilation. then you could do away with the scissor system altogether. either way you still have to have a post under each end of the ridge beam(s) and chase the load path to the foundation with properly sized point load footings,but you knew that!
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Old 09-02-2009, 08:18 PM   #44
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Re: Reason 2 Truss . . . Would U?


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Originally Posted by UpNorth View Post
Well, thanks, Tim! It is pretty clear now that the cost premium for trusses over sticks will exceed the labor premium for a frame that is all-sticks.

To show this better, I have turned on the layers for the walls and floors, and you can see in this pic how far up that roof is off the floor, at the "greatroom" end of this little vacation home. That man on the main floor has a 2x4x8 standing next to him.

I also threw in a Lull telehandler, a piece of equipment not available to any of the very few pro framing crews we have up here in the north country. This roof will have to be erected using scaffolding and planking, and a lot of plain old manpower.
Gene,

What's with the second roof underneath the main roof? Is it because the main roof pitch is to steep?
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Old 09-02-2009, 08:23 PM   #45
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Re: Reason 2 Truss . . . Would U?


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gene,
looks good. you could just frame with 2x12's and use r-38c insulation that would leave a 1" air space for ventilation. then you could do away with the scissor system altogether. either way you still have to have a post under each end of the ridge beam(s) and chase the load path to the foundation with properly sized point load footings,but you knew that!
Thanks, Catspaw.

We want a minimum R50 roof, insulation-wise, and prefer a hot roof done by spraying a 7.5" minimum finished thickness of closed cell urethane foam on the underside of the deck. No venting is done. This method has been done on a majority of homes built here since around 2000.

We wanna be toasty, and don't need no steenking ice dams!

The 12:12 pitch is done in design to yield enough headroom under the half of the upper floor that is not under the dormer. If you look at the rendering in post #1, it is seen that the 12-pitch roof adds to the overall cachet of the house design. The ceilings are dropped inside to the vaults as shown, so that the rooms have the right amount of scale. See the renders here of the greatroom and that under-dormer upper bedroom.
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Old 09-02-2009, 10:15 PM   #46
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Re: Reason 2 Truss . . . Would U?


Quote:
Originally Posted by UpNorth View Post
Well, thanks, Tim! It is pretty clear now that the cost premium for trusses over sticks will exceed the labor premium for a frame that is all-sticks.

To show this better, I have turned on the layers for the walls and floors, and you can see in this pic how far up that roof is off the floor, at the "greatroom" end of this little vacation home. That man on the main floor has a 2x4x8 standing next to him.

I also threw in a Lull telehandler, a piece of equipment not available to any of the very few pro framing crews we have up here in the north country. This roof will have to be erected using scaffolding and planking, and a lot of plain old manpower.
Gene,

I can understand how the lack of equipment would slow the process down. But nothing that needs to be lifted will be that heavy, just way up there. A high pucker factor for sure.

You know though that to set up pipe staging in that room with the "framer" in it, wouldn't take long but 30-60 min. It really wouldn't be bad at all. We set up pipe staging to side a house last winter and it took 3 guys about 30 minutes to set it up and we were up there aways. I think it was $50 or so.

I used to get up on ladders, ladder jacks and a plank. I think the highest I ever got was the plank at the topplate height of 3 stories (daylight basement). 30' is too high for me, and now 20' is too high to just be on a plank and ladder jacks.

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