Reason 2 Truss . . . Would U?

KentWhitten

TIM, I don't know how many homes I did out there in Seattle that was 24" OC, stick or frame, that had 7/16" OSB roof sheathing. Everything. Million dollar homes and 7/16" OSB. Is that still the case?

Sorry for the hijack North.

I don't see why you couldn't scissor truss almost all of that. Your dormer trusses look odd to me. I see what you are doing, but I'd just do plain scissors there and overframe. Don't make the truss co's job too hard. It looks like 3 set packages of your trusses is all that's needed. You start putting weird designs in, the installer will be scratching his head more IMO.

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ClemS

trusses are better than stick framed roofs because you get excellent perimeter nailing for your sheathing, the trusses are exactly identical to one another, unlike rafters. plus trusses are faster. it only takes a couple of weeks to get a roof done from conception to shingle.
and on top of all these goodies, any half of a retard can set them in a fairly straight line for 3.50 an hour.

fellow americans, we cannot lose with trusses!

Timuhler

Unless it is under tile, the 24" oc gets 7/16". I order true 1/2", but that is the norm. When we do a tile roof, then its 5/8". We use ply clips either way, but don't stress too much on 5/8" if we miss one here or there.

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Timuhler

not in my experience.

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loneframer

I average one truss roof every 5 years.

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ClemS

you're just being stubborn. give in to truss-mania.

Timuhler

Which color pill to I take Morpheus?

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ClemS

you really need to stop flooding the framing forum with framing pictures of houses that are framed well with dimensional lumber. it's almost like you're trying to say that THAT is the way they should be built

ClemS

naturally green. the color of dollar and it's energy efficient too!

loneframer

These are the last 2 truss jobs I did. One in 2001 the other in 2002.

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mics_54

Well yah...little roofs should be stick framed...don't you guys do any big roofs?

ClemS

i do teeny roofs and charge by square eighth of an inch

ClemS

even though i've never set trusses, and odds are, probably never will, I think I'd end up blocking the ridgeline, hipline, and all the other edges solid. and set them on 16 inch centers. and put strongbacks all over the place.

katoman

A question for UpNorth - you fill your cathedral with foam. Do you install baffles? Any problem with shingle failure.?

A couple of homes we did without baffles experienced shingle failure (curling) within one year. After baffles were installed in every truss space, we had no further issues.

Just curious, thanks.

Oh, and sorry to other carpenters, but I'd go with the trusses, mostly for the time savings.

ClemS

doesn't take long to stick frame a roof. unless it's the first roof you're doing, or the house has 92 corners.

Timuhler

Guys,

I think this thread got a little off track, and I'm guilty of that.

Let's get back to Gene's original post. I would genuinely love to see what the framing requirements would be for his job in his area to clear span that. I'd like to see what it would take and then get an idea on labor.

I'd say for myself in this area, we'd be able to use stick framing as a selling point. We'd sell it as old world craftsmanship blended with modern materials and techniques.

Being that we have equipment, we can move the large heavy materials easily and lift the rakewalls in a few minutes. So the labor $$ would not necessarily be an issue because we may be able to save time building the rakewalls, overhangs and housewrap before we lift.

The little frame we just finished, I framed the closed soffits on the rafter walls also. So for our company and our approach to framing, I really don't think the end product would be more expensive than if someone else framed it.

Also, we use very little scaffolding because we have the platforms for the forklift. So I lean toward sticking the roof, but I'd love to see what the $$ would come out to be.

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katoman

Hi Clem, I can cut a roof no problemo, did one 2wks ago. But we were doing a bunch of bungalows a few years back, 4 man crew, and with a boom truck we erected all the main trusses in one hour!

Just can't do it that fast cutting it. But there are situations where you need to cut the roof. Check out my post on - when a 5/12 becomes 41/2 12.
On that job you would have thrown the trusses in the garbage. So, I'll go either way, just depends on what is required.

FramerKid

it doesn't take long to set commons once they're cut and leaned up against the house. especially with 4 men.
you can run them out in less than an hour on a 60' long building and have one guy do the gable-ends meanwhile.
yea i remember the post on the hip roof. i do mostly remodels too and trusses wouldn't work for me anyway, everything has to be pieced together and is very sequential - can't pre-order or pre-cut too much on those.

catspaw

mic,
can't calculate $ hit i'm not an engineer. i can calculate rafter span ,snow loads,footings ,beam spans etc.. simple math stuff from years of building experience.
burn rates etc... can't do that either! been in volunteer fire depts for 37 years and have seen i beam floor joist with 3/8" webs burn thru in half the time of conventional lumber.seen roof trusses pop plates in attic fires where stick frame lumber gets a nice glaze but no failure. apples and oranges as mentioned above.

UpNorth

For you cut-it-on-site-from-sawn-lumber types, here is the same little roof scheme done all in sticks, with sizing of members all figured for our loadings.

The four-pair end (as seen in plan) is unchanged, as it was sticks before. The rest was all trusses in the earlier scheme, and is all sticks now. As you can see, the "greatroom" end that had the 25'4" scissors, and the dormer with its funky scissors and valley sets, now requires a second "roof" be framed underneath to make up the vaulted ceilings.

The ridge over the big part is a two-ply 1.75x14. All other ridges and valleys are single LVLs at 1.75x11.875.

Rafters are 2x10 if spanning full. The dormer rafters are 2x8. All are 24 on center, and the design is conservative, figuring all the snow loading and drift factors. Sheathing is 5/8 OSB.

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