Rafter HELP

stagger19

Im building a 16 X 24 garage, framed out the walls with 2x4's.
The slab I had pourded was a little off, so now by walls width is off by an 1" between the back and the front.

I was gonna do a ridge board and rafters but because the wall is off an inch, not sure how to go about this
Im having trouble getting the rafters to fit properly.
When Im tight on the wider end, the birds mouth over hand by a 1/2 " on the other end.

Anybody have any suggestions on how I can get the roof framed out?

jmic

Stag,
Why didn't you square up the sill plates on the concrete slab when you started framing?

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Joe

stagger19

I did try to square the sill plates the best I could. I ran a sting down each side, and set my sill plates right on that string. I plumb the walls as close as possible but for some reason it still came up just about an inch off.

Because it does run an inch off, and getting the rafters to fit just right may be a lot of trial and error, maybe I should order trusses for the long dimension???

jmic

Is the span for the rafters the 16' or 24' measurement?

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Joe

stagger19

the span for the rafters will be 16 ft.

jmic

I'd make up a jig and make the trusses myself, would avoid alot of waiting time, Whats the pitch?

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Joe

stagger19

the pitch is 4.75/12

When you say make the trusses do u mean an actual W type truss out of 2x4's and the metal connector plates by strong tie?

Not sure how to design this?

cranbrook2

I agree always start with a square building.

You can split the difference in measurements from end to end when you snap the lines for the walls when you are squaring up, or do a 3,4,5 or a 6,8,10 in the corner of 2 walls.

if it is too late for that you can always cut the wall ( sawzall ) and move it . 16 ft is not long.

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jmic

Yeah you could do 2x4 chords with using plywood gussets in place of the metal plates. I've done this application numerous times for garages. That said I guess you should run it by your building officials for thier blessings.

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Joe

stagger19

Ok Thanks for the help.

I think If I ordered the trusses it would run like $1500 or so (approx 100 ~ 120 a Truss) x 13 need to run the 24ft, 2 ft on center.

I might be able to contrust something for a lot less.

Travis77

Well,, something else you could do is pull your nails on the front 2 corners of the building and take each side out a half inch or cut a half inch off the top plates on each side of the back walls, pull the nails, and then pull the walls in to make the inch disappear. Your walls will be a half inch outa plumb in the corners,,, but your roof will work.

JustaFramer

I don't know why you are stressing it all this much. You should of squared your plates up. With plywood you would only see 1/2" then with siding you would never really notice it. But since you did it your way you can run you birdsmouths on the square side and where it ends up in the out of sq side is just that. Adjust your bird block accordingly and live with a screwy soffit. Even with rafters (I don't advise you to make your own trusses. Unless it's ok with the building dept.) you will have to set you sq side and live with the butchery. And probably you will be the only one to ever know it.

reveivl

I just finished a job where the ho had poured his footers, walls and framed up the 12' stick walls. Then he couldn't figure what to do 'cos the building was 2-1/2" OUT OF SQUARE AND 5-1/4" out of level. Couldn't work out how to put the roof on. I moved the sills to square, plumbed the sticks, sheathed to eight feet, cut the sticks level, replated and finished the sheathing. Trusses and roof, made out a big bill and he was HAPPY.
I think it's worth making the thing square, and once you get into it, it doesn't take that long.
Rich.

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snapper21

Blow the end walls, run your 3,4,5, or 6,8,10, and prove it by racking a measurement from corner to corner both ways.

Joe Carola

Stagger,

You framed the walls 1" off and that's it. They’re not parallel to each other. It sounds like your not going to fix the walls.

There's many ways to fix this and easy ways if you frame every day but in your case you can make it easier on yourself without going nuts.

Let's say your building measures 16' on the left side and 16' 1" on the right side. If you don't have the ceiling joists in, all you have to do is add another plate on top of the top plates.

If the front wall for example is the square one then just add another top plate to it.

Now the back wall on the left 16' side, stick the plate past the top plate 1/2" making that that top plate from front to back 16' 1/2".

On the back wall on the right 16 1" side, stick the top plate in 1/2" making that top plate from front to back the same 16' 1/2" as the other side.

So now your new top plates are parallel with each other at each end, so just string a line from one end to the next the 24' length and your plate will be perfectly straight and nail it in. Your top plates are parallel measuring 16' 1/2" the whole length of the 24' walls front and back. Now you can cut all the rafters the same.

Before you nail the rafters on just cut the plate flush to the inside of the right side top plate because it will be sticking in a 1/2" to nothing as you go down the wall so you will have it flush on the inside with the original two top plates.

The blue lines represent the new parallel top plate and the black lines is the existing top plates using 16' and 16' 1" for examples

Attached Thumbnails

 

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Joe Carola

A+Carpenter

Yea stick with the original plans to use enginered trusses. You can adjust this in your soffit and sheathing later. So why was the slab off? Did you have a form bust/sag somewhere in the corner?

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stagger19

I think im gonna just order the trusses, it will make the job go so much faster and the outcome will come out stronger and better.

I can order the trusses for the longer dimension and shim under the truss on the sides where there is gaps.

My slab that I had pourded ran off from the weight of the concrete pushing the forms out, so it makes sense that it runs wider in the front since this was the end of the pour, and all that weight from 20 yards of concrete pushing on the forms, caused it to bow out.

A+Carpenter

Next time put more braces in \_<kicker____2x4_________| like that<

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vtgaetano

I can't believe this is a serious question. Very simple to keep the same size soffit AND a level ridge. WOW, take a frikkin 1/4 inch of your "short" wall gable rafters(the top plumb cut of course)little less for the next few, blam there you have it. Still have a 12" soffit and straight walls.

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fettycan

Its only 1".