Radius Jig For Cutting 2x Rafters

kpatrix

Not sure about that, there are different blades for sidewinders and wormdrives and hypoids. Looks like Tim used his on a Ridgid, and I use mine on the Makita.

TempestV

Could it be that the blade for blade on the right saws doesn't have the knock-out for a diamond arbor? It isn't like there would be much need for one. My big beam saw is the only blade right wormdrive that I know of, and it has a square arbor, plus I doubt you would want to use a 36 pound saw for this kind of work...

Timuhler

Mine is on an old Skil and I don't think it has the diamond knockout. I just tightened the bolt real tight. But its been on there for a few years, so I don't really remember.

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Gus Dering

Enough said

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tccoggs

HD by we was clearning out the 13 amp MAG77 models some time ago, I picked up 2 for $74 ea.

TempestV

Sounds good, and it goes right along with the micrometer that I use for framing layout...

I'm curious, how long would you expect it to take to cut out a rafter such as the one shown?

Gus Dering

Faster than you can unload one and place another.

The bit that would cut that travels at 600 inches a minute.

Every rafter the exact same, accuracy cannot be matched.

This job you should cut by hand as everyone has stated, I suppose.

You get into an apartment complex where there are 100's of radius' over door and windows and archways, you would do yourself justice to find a machine like mine.

I would love to take on a big elliptical dome someday though. Show Warren how it's done.
I'd even let the Loneframer push the button.

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Warren

Bring it on Gus!!

I remember the discussion of the cnc router. My brother used to work in a cabinet shop for a while and he raved about the machine. I have no doubt that it would do a nice job, however like you said, job would need to be large to recover the costs. Keep in mind, my "famous" dome required a total of only 40 hours labor, which included set up, cutting, assembly, and breakdown.

When you get some spare time, you should mock up a small scale one just to quiet all the naysayers. Of which I am not!

WNYcarpenter

I'll say it again...thanks guys!

Went in today and we have an arcus blade on order....however, our PM already ordered the chainsaw attachment for the skil saw...we'll be using insulated panel walls. I guess, we'll be using the new attatchment to cut out our ROs.

At any rate, what are your thoughts about using this 'chainsaw' thing for gang cutting our rafters?

and kpatrix....our project just got out of the ground, someone seriously dropped the ball 'cause our walls were just ordered today....4 weeks out!!

Framing in the snow again!...What we're hoping is in the down time to be able to bang out as many rafters as we can between now and then.

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Timuhler

How many rafters you have to cut? I gang cut whenever there are more than say 20.

We have cut 2x12 for 12-12 roofs with perfect accuracy, but we had Big Foot make us a bigger Head Cutter. If you call Emma, ask her what my specs where. She has them on file.

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WNYcarpenter

I didn't count the roof drawing, so I'm just going by what I've been told...80' commons for the first level, and I'm guessing a few less for the second level...

We could really utilize this new tool! What's your method...stand 'em, nail a cleat(straight edge) on the outsides and go?

I'm not sure of our wall heights, but this could be great for cutting studs.

I've known about this project, but having a couple large projects out there needing a lead, and neither are ready to frame, I've been in the dark doing the 1-2 day PITA jobs.

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loneframer

I'll give you $200 for both.

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loneframer

There's a generous offer, as much as you push my buttons.

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TempestV

Do you mean a prazi? I've heard of a lot of people cutting stair stringers with it, so it's accurate enough on straight cuts into blind corners. I'm not sure how it would respond to curves. Theoretically, you should be able to cut 7-8 rafters at a time.

Make sure to have plenty of room to lay the walls out when they arrive. It's amazing how much space they can take up. What company is making them?

Gus Dering

I'll bring it on, Warren. By the truck load. You have a truck right?
If I could put our hired hand at the machine and have him load and unload the machine and push a couple buttons in between. You might be surprised how cheap the make up might be.

Can you imagine all your parts just showing up all neatly stacked with a bow on them for you? Yeah you can.

You have more buttons than any gadget I own, so ya can't blame me for pushing them. I just wanna see what they all do.

It is cheap entertainment. Least I could do is let you push one of my buttons.

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tccoggs

Gus,

What power is that spindle on the CNC?? Do you have a pod table??? I always prefered a Point to Point machine (We had a Weeke) for post milling and part milling as the pods were far superior to the vac table. The vac table just couldn't deal with small imperfections in the stock and sometimes the parts would creep from vibration. We had the pod table on the router as well, but the conversion took alot of time depending on the layout, so we generally did all the nested runs on the CNC and then post milling and solid wood processing on the point to point.

The one exception was curved mouldings, the Komo had a 10HP horizontal spindle that accepted standard 30 deg grooved knives that we ran in our 6 head Weinig moulder.

Gus Dering

The main spindle is 10 horse. I think the drill head is 5 or so.

No we do not have a pod system. For the most part I process plywood with this machine. We don't need any horizontal boring with any of our construction methods. Best I can tell that is where a point to point along with a pod system would pay off.

If we are just talking box parts, the only time I see point to point being a great choice is if you are producing a lot of the same parts over and over. You have a beam saw to break down several sheets at a time. Then load the parts on your pods to do all the drilling and machining on up to five faces. Pallet after pallet kinda thing. I could be wrong but thats the way I understand it.

You are right about problems holding down parts. There are a lot of tricks both with software and at the machine to help that but, yeah twisted solid stock is the worst. Even on a pod you would have a difficult time flattening a big slab for accurate machining, although you would be able to keep it still.

Sorry about the hijack

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WNYcarpenter

Just an update....there'll be many more. ICF ARXX block installed 'in house'.

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Gus Dering

That looks nice.
I didn't think they were still using the metal webbed blocks anymore, thought they all went plastic. Much easier to cut and all.

You guys doing the concrete too?

I love upstate NY. So darned perty there.
I have a sister with a summer home not too awful far from you. Love it, simply love it.

Although you will be spending the winter on top of that foundation huh? Well you have youth on your side.

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WNYcarpenter

I'll be updating this thread for the next few months....you'll see the snow!...

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