Question: how to frame a new interior wall to a cathedral ceiling - Contractor Talk - Professional Construction and Remodeling Forum

jgdservices · 10-13-2009, 02:41 AM

Hello Pros,

I have a framing question. I have a little job where I will need to build 2 walls within a finished home to divide a room. I have done some framing but its not my specialty. the existing walls are 8' but the ceiling is not flat but rather a 12' cathedral style. I need to build these two walls to connect each other on the corner and I will be framing a rough opening for a door but the question is I know how to build the wall no problems if it were 8' with flat ceilings but in this case its not that way so what should I do for the gap between the 8' top of the wall and the ceiling at 12' how is this framed so I can make the room look good?

Thanks.

JGD

Kgmz · 10-13-2009, 03:52 AM

Normally it is not a good idea to ask this type and simple of a question here. But I'll ne nice and answer it since your info in your profile checks out.

1. You don't want to build this wall in 2 pieces as you described. It will make the wall weak and flimsy with that hinge point at the top of the 8' wall.

2. What is the top plate going to be attached to? Is the wall going to line up under a rafter or truss? Or will it be in the center of two rafters or trusses?

Normally when I build a wall like this I frame the perimeter, bottom plate, top plate, and studs against exisiting walls, like a picture frame. Then mark out for the rest of the studs on the bottom and top plate. Then I figure out what angle is needed for the cut at the top of studs. Then I just measure each one, cut and install. I don't try and figure this mathematically on something this simple because usually the pitch won't be perfect because of sag, etc. To mark your top plate use a plate level or a level and a straight edge from your marks on the bottom plate. I have a plate level that extends from 7 to 12 feet. Also if you have to you could use a plumb bob.

Willie T · 10-13-2009, 08:31 AM

Probably the easiest way for you to go, since this is a small job, is to layout the wall on the floor.
Then fasten down the bottom plate.
Now, go to the corner of the two walls, and determine where the edge of the outside of the corner will be up on the ceiling.
One of those cheap $30 laser levels works well for this... or you can use a regular level on a straight piece of wood that is just a foot or so short of the ceiling (slide the level up the side of the piece of wood for the rest of the needed height)
Snap a chalk line down each side of ceiling, and tack a top plate up there.

Then, using the level again, layout your top and bottom plates, measure for studs, and toenail them in place.

Of course, the tops of the studs will have to be cut on a bevel to match the ceiling slope.

This is a little slow going, but for a one-time shot, it's the easiest. The drawings below should give you a fair idea. (Of course, the studs would all be long enough to reach the top plates.... they are drawn this way to show the two different angle cuts on the tops.)

EDIT: One more point. It is not good to wedge an interior wall up tight against the ceiling. After you nail up those top plates, shim them down about a quarter to a half of an inch before you measure and install the studs. But be careful they are still held up there well... don't want the top plate to fall on your head. After all the studs are nailed in, pull the shims out.

jgdservices · 10-13-2009, 02:50 PM

This wall will line up between two rafters. I guess if it were easier I could adjust its build location to ensure it lines up with something to nail the top plate to. So the easiest way would be to bevel the top plates and use longer studs while bevel cutting each stud top based on the angle of the top plate traveling up the ceiling? Someone mentioned not building this wall tight to the ceiling why is this? Also, what would you do then with the gap/seam between the wall top and ceiling, I will be using drywall after the framing is done. I appreciate your assistance it is very helpful and informative. I reallyt value your opinions.

JGD

Willie T · 10-13-2009, 03:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jgdservices

This wall will line up between two rafters. I guess if it were easier I could adjust its build location to ensure it lines up with something to nail the top plate to. So the easiest way would be to bevel the top plates and use longer studs while bevel cutting each stud top based on the angle of the top plate traveling up the ceiling? Someone mentioned not building this wall tight to the ceiling why is this? Also, what would you do then with the gap/seam between the wall top and ceiling, I will be using drywall after the framing is done. I appreciate your assistance it is very helpful and informative. I reallyt value your opinions.

JGD

You mentioned cathedral ceilings. This indicates that the ceiling surface against which your walls will butt is either rafters or scissors trusses.

In either case, the load the roof members bear has been calculated for the points currently supporting that weight. The introduction of an intermediate load bearing (supporting) wall somewhere in the center of that span will alter the dynamics of the original installation.

While, in the case of rafters, it may not cause a problem (although it COULD), if you place an extra, uncalculated support somewhere in the middle of a truss span, there is a good chance of actually reducing the load bearing capabilities of that truss. Not a good thing.

It's best just to never shove interior walls up tight against a ceiling.

The small gap is no problem. Drywall tape and mud (drywall compound) will easily span and hide that tiny gap.

And "Yes", you should have something to fasten to up in the ceiling.

EDIT: You only need to bevel one single edge. That will be the top inside of the plate indicated in the drawings. And on some roof pitches, even that is not really necessary.

jgdservices · 10-13-2009, 03:46 PM

Thank you for the help. I have a better insight now on what I need to do. If anyone else has anything to add the knowledge would be greatly appreciated. I do apologize to Willie T if I offended you with my comment on "someone" I had so many windows open at the time and was multitasking that I just wrote someone as a generic. I am sorry if that bothered you and I really appreciate your assistance.

**genecarp** · 10-13-2009, 03:59 PM

If done properly there is nothing wrong with building an 8ft wall, or precut ht, and then building a a short wall on top., The benefits are no 12ft studs to handle, and they are more likely to bow or twist, deal with some nice straight pre cuts, then build a nice gable wall on top, no strenth issues, this is an interior non load bearing wall. G, PS even if it was load bearing, NO PROBLEM, ALSO, forget the space up top , bring top plate right up to cieling. The A job is to cut the existing rock away, block out as required, attach top plate, you can also layover the existing sheetrock, but if you are between bays , not such a good idea. G

innovous · 10-14-2009, 07:21 PM

We used the method Gene referred to on this remodel. Worked out pretty well and the walls were solid. Also, a lot of little things were not complete when these photos were taken, just a few photos at the end of a day.