Post Half-rotted. Putty?

MHMConstruction

I'm replacing cedar plank siding on a carport - when I pulled off the first piece today, we saw that the base of the post (carport is framed with 8x8 PT posts, 4 on each side) had some pretty bad water rot. I'd say the posts all probably have the integrity of 6x6 posts now, with the rot. The problem was standing water (no drainage plan whatsoever, so they sat in 2 inches of water anytime it rained, which is a lot, here).

I've fixed the drainage situation, and pulled off the old siding. My plan is to use some kind of bondo/putty to fill in the voids at the base. I've done this with steel posts, but never with wood.

What is a good product? I know there is "Wood Putty", but this is exterior, PT, and I'd like to say I fixed any structural voids when I'm done.

Putty? Bondo? anyone?

MHM Construction
North Central Florida

Bone Saw

I can't remember the name of it, but back when I use to do sat diving, we used 2 part epoxy putties by the 5 gallon bucket full. Very strong unaffected by water/moisture, incredible bond charitaristics. I once used it to fix a shattered volute on a hydraulic submersible trash pump (8" inlet/outlet, would suck your arm off your body) One section of the volute was missing alltogether (about 4x4" piece) and I mixed it up real good with steel wool and stuffed it in the hole, this pump lasted through about another 1-1/2 years of heavy use. any grainger should have something similar in larger sizes http://www.aplusbputty.com/epoxy-putty.htm

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concretemasonry

Sounds like a quickie patch job on a structural member that has about 1/2 its orginal strength (by calibrated eye).

Some materials have compressive strength but no tensile strength(uplift) or lateral strength. A good wind could cause big time problems for you.

I hope you have insurance if you get involved since you are leaving yourself wide open.

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72chevy4x4

that is an interesting point. If the structure is destroyed and an insurance inspector comes in and finds shoddy work-without being able to prove the current occupant performed (authorized) the work, could they deny payment?


Can you sister a 2x8 to each side of the 8x8? bend an aluminum cap to cover it if you choose-include a drip ledge to take the water away from the offending area :-). Lag bolts would be a secure method of connecting the pieces together-a through bolt making a sandwich out of the 8x8 would be better. if you can use this method, consider beveling the top edge of the 2x8 (PT of course).

MHMConstruction

BoneSaw - that's exactly what I was looking for - I've used something like this before on an iron post that was rusted out at the bottom. Passed inspection and all that. Just needed a push in the right direction.

This job was supposed to be just to replace the cypress and cedar plank siding, but in the process found the eroded post bases. The homeowner was present and liked the putty idea. Structurally, we'll be fine - I just want to stop and prevent any further damage.

Many Thanks, off the the epoxy store.....

MHM

tcleve4911

Putty & paint make us the carpenters we ain't !!!

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theworx

MHM, sorry man, Bondo or wood putty as a method of fixing a structural void????? There was a reason they used 8" x 8"s in the first place (probably code)!!! Would never even think of using some kind of filler in this situation (it's not a cosmetic fix it's a structural issue)... Fillers don't have structural qualities!!!

If you've remedied the standing water issue what is wrong with replacing the posts??? Did you suggest that to the customer??? Are they too cheap to fix the problem properly (as it is an extra to the original contract)??? Would hate to see you liable for their future problems if something went wrong!!!

thom

Did some similar repair work many years ago. Just replaced the lower part of the post.

troubleseeker

Sounds like too much for just a filler. If you cannot change the posts, I would rough cut the bad wood from each side, the use a router with a large dado bit to "plane" the sides smooth, staggering the height of the cuts on the sides. Then cut pieces of appropriate thickness to build the post back. Use a quality two part epoxy, sand to flush everything up, and paint. "West" brand expoy is some good stuff, and is sometimes available at local marine stores> if not it can be mail ordered. It is a complete "system", primarily designed for the marine industry and is available with a large selection of fillers for various applications, or as just a thin resin. They also have great technical support.