Post & Beam Style Entry "Truss"

 
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Old 02-18-2010, 08:57 AM   #21
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Re: Post & Beam Style Entry "Truss"


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Originally Posted by Gus Dering View Post
Your school cut the aprons out of the budget?
APRONS!?!?!? We even had to purchase our own wood.

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Old 02-18-2010, 09:22 AM   #22
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Re: Post & Beam Style Entry "Truss"


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Originally Posted by neolitic View Post
Where were you in shop class?
All proper young men will tuck
their neck ties into their shirts
between the second and third button.
I started using a tie clip some time ago.


it's been awhile since I've used a chain mortiser boy does that get me going. such a simple yet complicated machine. does anyone have $1300.00 bucks I can borrow?

just make sure she's locked down before you use her. or else she'll be jumping all over the place and that can get scary.
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Old 02-18-2010, 09:59 AM   #23
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Re: Post & Beam Style Entry "Truss"


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Originally Posted by jlhaslip View Post
Housing the top of the King post and the wind braces is a good idea.
For the noted reasons, I don't suggest that you house the bottom ends.
I would suggest that you drop the front beam to below the wall plates. Use full mortise and tenons at that joint.
Also, use an overlap on the post to wall plate connection, or a Mortise in the plate with a Tenon on the post. Extend the posts by an inch or so.

There is not a 'good', 'easy' method to join the post, plate and beam at the same location without the use of metal, or rather complex joinery,unfortunately.
I do not doubt that the OP is capable of cutting the connections, and if they wish to contact me directly, I could supply a diagram of a far superior method. But I'm sure the suggestions above would suffice for this Roof structure.

Willie's solution looks good, but there is a lot of weight on the front beam from the point load of the King post and the interlocking dovetail is removing a lot of wood, weakening the front beam.

As a Historical note, Timber Frames rarely included overhangs. Especially at the Truss locations.
jlhaslip's right. Something along these lines might prove more substantial. With the post directly below a joint something like this one, you should sleep well at night.
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Post & Beam Style Entry "Truss"-double-dove-1.png   Post & Beam Style Entry "Truss"-double-dove-2.png  
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Last edited by Willie T; 02-18-2010 at 10:06 AM.
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Old 02-18-2010, 10:05 AM   #24
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Re: Post & Beam Style Entry "Truss"


Guys,

I talked to our engineer yesterday and there is no need for anything special. The 6x10 bottom chord does the work in this case. Everything is just for looks ie ridge beam, struts, . . .

I'm hoping to get the material ordered today. I've been sick the last couple of days, so I'm going be playing catch up when I get back.

My question, is if I house the struts into the underside of the rafters like the drawing shows, why mortise and tenon?
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Old 02-18-2010, 10:53 AM   #25
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Re: Post & Beam Style Entry "Truss"


you'll be screwing into end grain. the m&t is traditional. shows off a peg.
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Old 02-27-2010, 10:21 AM   #26
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Re: Post & Beam Style Entry "Truss"


"Keep It Simple Stupid!"

Whenever I'm trying to work out construction details, I often repeat the "KISS" mantra to myself. We've done mortice and tenon beam work, but it's time consuming. Clients are rarely willing to pay for that kind of craftsmanship.

We recently framed this porch that turned out pretty sweet. Everything is secured with timber-locs. The beam supporting the king post is notched at each end, other than that all the cuts are very basic, which meant it went together quickly.

It's important to note that this porch frame will be covered with a roof and painted, so moisture is not a big concern. If it were stain grade and exposed, we may have made these connections a little different.
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Old 02-28-2010, 08:33 PM   #27
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Re: Post & Beam Style Entry "Truss"


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Originally Posted by kuponoconstr View Post
"Keep It Simple Stupid!"

Whenever I'm trying to work out construction details, I often repeat the "KISS" mantra to myself. We've done mortice and tenon beam work, but it's time consuming. Clients are rarely willing to pay for that kind of craftsmanship.

We recently framed this porch that turned out pretty sweet. Everything is secured with timber-locs. The beam supporting the king post is notched at each end, other than that all the cuts are very basic, which meant it went together quickly.

It's important to note that this porch frame will be covered with a roof and painted, so moisture is not a big concern. If it were stain grade and exposed, we may have made these connections a little different.
Looks good. I'll be framing mine starting tomorrow and hopefully will be done tomorrow. We'll see.
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Old 03-02-2010, 01:20 AM   #28
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Re: Post & Beam Style Entry "Truss"


Heres some timber trusses i did last year. 32 ft long 6.75 12 pitch. Knife plated with hiden steel dowels.
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Old 03-02-2010, 01:29 AM   #29
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Re: Post & Beam Style Entry "Truss"


a few up close and set $64000 in timber on this house. It was right around 5400 sq ft
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Old 03-02-2010, 08:15 PM   #30
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Re: Post & Beam Style Entry "Truss"


We finally got most of the work done. I've been way off my game on this roof and then week before last I was out with food poisoning. So yesterday we got our materials, all KD Doug Fir FOHC 6x10 and 6x6. A 12' 6x10 was about $130 vs green at about $40

I realized yesterday afternoon that I was short material for one strut, and I made a mistake that I had to compensate for. So it didn't turn out quite as well as I'd hoped, but it looks good for a framer (rough framer)

Pictures below



Got to use the 14" Big Boy quite a bit and it did well. I made most of my cuts first with a 7 1/4" saw, then used the Big Boy to minimize blade wobble





This is the 1" housing for the 6x6 kingpost and my 1" chisel.


My plan was to set it up temp and scribe and fit the king post and struts, which worked well for the struts, but it collapsed before I got the kingpost cut.


1" housing for the struts.
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Old 03-02-2010, 08:20 PM   #31
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Re: Post & Beam Style Entry "Truss"


Most everything is cut at this point, so we started setting the pieces.



6x10 Rafter with the housing cut into it for the angled strut.


I cut the "bottom chord" to it would half lap the beams. Kyle is just screwing them together with long TimberLoks.

Bryan is using 6" TimberLoks to "toe scre" the king post into the bottom chord.
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_QGGH89KvQEY/S4...6/IMG_0547.JPG

oops



I was short enough 6x6 for one of the struts, so we used the new DeWalt Rip Guide to make a 6x6






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Old 03-02-2010, 08:23 PM   #32
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Old 03-02-2010, 08:49 PM   #33
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Re: Post & Beam Style Entry "Truss"


Quote:
Originally Posted by kuponoconstr View Post
"Keep It Simple Stupid!"

Whenever I'm trying to work out construction details, I often repeat the "KISS" mantra to myself. We've done mortice and tenon beam work, but it's time consuming. Clients are rarely willing to pay for that kind of craftsmanship.

We recently framed this porch that turned out pretty sweet. Everything is secured with timber-locs. The beam supporting the king post is notched at each end, other than that all the cuts are very basic, which meant it went together quickly.

It's important to note that this porch frame will be covered with a roof and painted, so moisture is not a big concern. If it were stain grade and exposed, we may have made these connections a little different.
The OSB kills it for me......
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Old 03-02-2010, 09:49 PM   #34
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Re: Post & Beam Style Entry "Truss"


Hey Tim why did you notch all the way thru your beams? When we have to set our 6x beams on 6x post we notch into our beams about 2 inches to allow the bottom cord to bear on the post. This keeps the outer edge of the beams clean give you better bearing and most importantly keeps our 6x12 intact. I think you might have set yourself up for your bottom cords cracking at that notch. Could be wrong. Did that bottom cord only have to be cosmetic of is the ridge bearing on it?
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Old 03-03-2010, 09:17 AM   #35
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Re: Post & Beam Style Entry "Truss"


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Originally Posted by ubenhad4 View Post
Hey Tim why did you notch all the way thru your beams? When we have to set our 6x beams on 6x post we notch into our beams about 2 inches to allow the bottom cord to bear on the post. This keeps the outer edge of the beams clean give you better bearing and most importantly keeps our 6x12 intact. I think you might have set yourself up for your bottom cords cracking at that notch. Could be wrong. Did that bottom cord only have to be cosmetic of is the ridge bearing on it?
The whole thing is cosmetic, which gave me a lot of latitude on design and cutting. I talked to our engineer and he said don't worry about it (I had sent him the drawings).

I notched them this way so that the "bottom chord" would half lap the side beams (rafter plates/beams). I just split it evenly between the two and sat them on a 6x6 that will get framed out for a tapered column later.

I am not an expert on any of this, but did post drawings early in this thread and got some feedback on the half lap. I did learn a lot as I went through this. One thing is that I need to sharpen my chisel, it is pretty sharp, but I want it to be sharper.

Another thing is that if at all possible, I want to preassemble it all on the ground first and then lift it all in. That doesn't always work if the rafters bear on the ridge, but I can make it work. We were just way short on time on this one, but all in all I think it turned out well.
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Old 03-03-2010, 09:47 AM   #36
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Re: Post & Beam Style Entry "Truss"


Thats a nice project, a nice job by you and nice stock. The lumber is crisp it looks like you belt sanded all surfaces and connections.
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Old 03-03-2010, 12:55 PM   #37
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Re: Post & Beam Style Entry "Truss"


It doesn't have to be solid to look solid.

Thought you might enjoy seeing this...... then go look at my next post.
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Old 03-03-2010, 12:56 PM   #38
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Re: Post & Beam Style Entry "Truss"


It's hollow.
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Old 03-03-2010, 01:42 PM   #39
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Re: Post & Beam Style Entry "Truss"


More good stuff Willie. Love this kind of look
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Old 03-03-2010, 06:03 PM   #40
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Re: Post & Beam Style Entry "Truss"


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Thats a nice project, a nice job by you and nice stock. The lumber is crisp it looks like you belt sanded all surfaces and connections.
Thanks. The lumber is good looking thats for sure. I didn't belt sand any of it and to be honest, I only knifed a few of the cuts before I made the cuts. I was in a bit of a hurry on this one.
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