Methods To Square A Walkout Foundation

FRAMERBEN

I am curious as to learn all methods for ensuring the walkout walls are square to the foundation when framing a new house. Today we started a new house and this time we plumbed a stud at each corner (only 2 on the walkout section) and pulled diagonals from a rectangle that we created. I think this is generally a accurate method but still leaves some room for error. What do you do?

Ben

Joe Carola

Ben,

Have you tried using a laser?

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Joe Carola

EPD

lazer for squaring a footing/walls?

i always set up batter boards 5 feet from hole perimeter....
plank and plumbob from intersecting lines to pin with a 16 inch peg on corners
then check after footings are poured and lay your walls off the pegs

greg24k

6'-8'-10'

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Willie T

Isn't it just like any right angle? a² + b² = c²

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FRAMERBEN

I am referring to squaring the wood framing to the concrete foundation that has been poured. How would you use a laser when the front foundation walls are 10' higher than the rear before there are any wood walls framed.

I understand the 6 8 10, but what about the infrequencies in the concrete wall. dosent that throw the accuracy out the window?

neolitic

Hold "Alt" and use number pad "0178"
X² + Y³ (0179)

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tcleve4911

I understand the problem. 2 elevations - how do you 345 or diagonal?
One method I've used is to lay temporary (straight) sill plates that cantilever over the lower section. Diagonal or 345, moving the plates to the desired points, and then plumb down. Set that corner and them build up to the plates.

This gets your 1st floor deck square. You can't change what the foundation crew made so you have to get the 1st floor true. You can fudge the basement.

This is old school without lasers and Google satellite images.

Hope this helps.

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EPD

this is what i was talking about .... im sure everyones done it this way ....

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FRAMERBEN

Exactly what I was referring to. thanks.

So that is one way, what do other people do?

rbsremodeling

I do remodeling nothing is ever square.

We try to keep walls and floors with in 2" of plumb and call it adding to the house's Charm or Character.



Why are the walls bowed? Those walls add Character to the house


Why aren't the floors Level? Those floors are part of the houses charm

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KentWhitten

character map ftw! I love those little doodads. I use alt+ 0188/89/90 all the time for ¼ ½ ¾ and alt+0176 for °

back to the op, I do close to what you have there. If you have 2 people doing it, it is much easier.

I do a few temporary things, like a scrap piece of plate material and bolt it down. It's more than likely in the wrong place, but you need some type of stable reference besides the concrete.

Then I grab a straight 2x, cut it to the length that will ballpark match the top of the PT plate on top of the stem wall. The plates on the top wall btw are already done and perfect except maybe the sides.

Hook a 100' to the top plate on the foundation and measure over to the stud while the other guy is plumbing the stud front to back. Once you get it on the money, then mark it on your temp plate. Brace it off on your mark

You will need to do the same for your diagonal and maybe come up with some creative ways to get your square. On my construction master I will put in the diagonal measurement and figure the run difference and add it to the stud, reset where the stud is and double check for square.

This will usually get it within 1/4" but there are factors which you need to account for, like stretching a 100' over that distance is going to give you some sag error.

Once I put the pieces together, I make sure when I am cutting top plates for the basement walls, I am making it the dimension it needs, i.e., if it says 24', make it 24', not 1/16" more or less. This may bump out your basement wall a little out of plumb, but if you drilled your bolt holes big, go get a sledge to bump around a little.

Or you can get a surveyor to come out and do it for you

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Salmon Falls Cabinetry

KentWhitten

actually, you can 3/4/5 if you wish, I don't personally use that method, I use the CM. A triangle is a triangle no matter if it's flat or sloped. You can still get the measurement somewhat close, but you have to know what your elevation is within 1/8" and realize moving your ref. point over may screw with your elevation measurement. If it's a decent foundation, it may be fine. I've done it this way with OK success.

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Custom Cabinetry - Portland, Cape Elizabeth, Scarborough, Kennebunkport, Yarmouth, Falmouth, Cumberland, Ogunquit, Maine

Salmon Falls Cabinetry

house bldr

If I understand you correctly, what I would do is run string lines out to complete the square and measure off of that.

Timuhler

I use the PLS90e to square these now and its perfect and fast.

Before that we used the PLS5 and plumbed down from the dot.

Before that we used levels and batter boards and strings.

The PLS90e is insanely accurate and fast. I sent it back east to Greg Di and he used to to square a multi-level deck. It sends out 2 vertical lines square to each other. So you can mark each step down and connect the dots.

Here are a few pictures


http://picasaweb.google.com/TimothyU...eat=directlink

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knucklehead

I think we went to the same school. Except I don't use a calculator much. I have one but just don't use it . Same for the laser. I don't like the laser outdoors or for long runs. I guess I am old school.

hughjazz

that laser is sweet.

wallmaxx

I used to be a Canadian so I'll help you out, bro. It's laser...like "lace-her"
And that goes for diesel too...its dee-sill, not deez-ill.

It took a year of my co workers hassling me to get it through my head to learn to pronounce things correctly (with a Texas accent of course)

gallerytungsten

Great thread & great comments so far. Here is http://www.ziplevel.com another tool that you can consider for correcting sag error, in particular. Of course, it's useful for a bunch of other things as well, for example, leveling existing construction. For $800, it better do a bunch of things.

Oh yeah, they are subject to requiring service every so often. (Mine just got sent off to the manufacturer. )