Metal Framing Help

gambinos1983

I am a house builder from PA. I have always build with wood. I just took a position in NYC for a remodeling company in nyc. Hopefully some of my questions can be answered here.

1. any websites that have standard building methods on metal framing. (gauges)
2. If I am building in metal what about load-bearing walls, (i.e. kitchen cabinets)
3. If I am sistering wood studs to metal studs for support for kitchen cabinets, do I frame my metal studs on 16 inch centers or the wood on 16 inch centers.
4. When sistering wood to metal should I use a ripped down 2x4 or a 2x3.
5. Is it alright to just use wood instead of metal.
6. In door jams should I frame with metal jack studs with metal headers,(is that needed) or just frame the rough openings with wood.

rbsremodeling

it depends I have seen both ways

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rbsremodeling

Can I have your job?? does it pay well?

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gambinos1983

The salary I got was a good one. U have to understand that I build houses ONLY out of wood. Metal framing is totally foreign to me. I don't really understand blocking or sistering up wood blocks or studs to metal. Why not just frame in wood, I quess that is more of a question for my boss.

rbsremodeling

If it is a commercial structure metal studs are typically spec'd. Metal studs are fast and easy, once you get the hang of it you will be surprise how much faster it is than wood framing.

We use them here for basements when load bearing is not an issue. One guy can frame out a 1000 sf basement in 2 days buy himself, wood framing 5 days and he sometimes requires a helper

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gambinos1983

I going to be doing high end residential apartments and I am having a hard time finding specs on this issue. I have a NYC Code book and it doesn't really say either way, I quess I need to ask the architect what he wants before I do my take-off, also do you know the name of a takeoff program for a computer I have PlanSwift but I am always looking for feed back on other programs

rbsremodeling

Typically in the brick buildings like here in DC there are limited load bearing interior walls so it is easier, cheaper and faster to use the metal studs.

Try this I have not used it personally but there is a builder here Alladin that does and thinks it is a really good program and he has tried alot of them


http://www.oncenter.com/products/pv/download.html

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TNRocks

I built my house with metal studs. There was no load bearing walls on the interior measurein 35' x 55' with the roof overhanging the back some 8' without any support from the ground. The 4 x 4 u see in the picture were needed for the deck. So image the house without a deck with the roof overhanging 8'. Sure worried me for a while. Only the exterior walls where load bearing. Your better off use wood jack studs door and window openings. The metal twist easy and won't handle the usage of the door. Also where you are going to hang the cabinets I just fastened 2 x 6's between the metal studs for hanging the cabinets. Another thing that the electrical inspector was glad that I did, even thou it wasn't man dated by code. was I mounted a 2 x 4 inside the stud to mount the outlet box. This way there was less chance to short out the house. Another thing that I would do in the next house would be to run a piece of 1/2" ply around the bottom to where I can fasten the molding easier with nails. They make headless screws for this but it was a pain the neck to sink and fill the holes. You will find that running wire and water lines etc. will be easier, no holes to drill, but make sure u use the plastic rings for the wire. I also found that u can just put a 2 x 4 inside the metal stud with no problems, a little tight but it works ok.

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