Metal Framing For Basement And Drop Cieling

joliet_man

I just got a job to frame out a basement in metal studs. I am young never used metal studs I have always done custom housing all wood frame. I have done many many basements and never done metal. So basically I am asking for a quick crash course, inmetal studs for the basement. I have a basic idea. just looking for quick tips and major concepts. What do I use for the bottom plate for moisture. Not a flood worry, just basic moisture you know do I use green plate any moisture barrier anything. Oh yea i am thinking of the trim should i use a wood bottom plate under the track for trim purposes so i have that nailer. Also he wants a drop cieling how do i do that basically out of metal studs or do i use wood or just a just fir it down with 2 by 2 or what I am just gonna box in the steel is that possible in steel well i am sure it is but how? Please help me all help is greatly appreciated.

Young and eager Carpenter learning all aspects of trade.

woodmagman

Nothing wrong with metal, providing you use a minimum of 2x4. 2x3 even on the extior walls is just to flimsy.
Shoot the track to the floor, leaving out door opening on the floor so you do not struggle cutting them out later. Frame door opening with track so blocking can be attached for door frames and casing backing and a tip for exterior walls and long walls that have other walls intersecting. Frame so the vapour barrier and drywall can go continously, meaning the intersecting walls are framed, leaving room for the finishes to pass right on with out stop and the wall...the insecting wall stud can then be glued to the drywall that passed behind it..less framing and a better seal for the VB.

mdshunk

Be advised that the electrical work gets more expensive when you frame with metal. I'm not sure if you accounted for that in your bid or not.

woodworkbykirk

in regards to the wood backer on the bottom track to act as a nailer for baseboard. dont worry about it, simply run some glue on the back of your baseboard and then use 1 1/4" gun nails and stitch nail

alboston

Along the the foundation wall you can get away with 1 5/8" studs/track. You just need to do a mid span brace half way up the wall on each stud. Does add a little more labor but I think you save time framing with metal overall. Just shoot the bottom and top track, cut the studs (if they are the same height you can cut a whole bundle at once) slide and twist into place and screw. You can use small spring clamps to hold the stud to the track while screwing. As for trim (base) you can run a strip of plywood the same thickness of the drywall along the bottom as a backer for the base.

Just-In-Time

Really funny that you posted this in a way. I am young and sort of new at the trade. Both of my grandfathers are carpenters but I didnt learn a whole lot from them. I am right now working under my fathers license and am out on my own, to bid jobs, complete jobs etc, he is busy running another company and does not have a ton of experiece with residential anyhow...I have no formal experience working for any outfits but I have successfully rehabbed two houses and worked on many small jobs. I have the ambition for sure, just not all the knowledge right now....Anyway, I just put a bid on finishing a neighbors basement, tho I will be using wood framing....I have a question, what is the best way to frame around a gas main? Are there typically codes about space around the main etc?? I priced up a metal access door 18" by 18", but what is the best way to frame around this thing?? Thanks!

woodmagman

I am of a strong belief that using any thinking smaller then 3 5/8" track and stud, even on exterior walls is just too light. We do tons of basements and the premise of the metal stud wall is that it is strong as complete wall, meaning screwed on both sides of the track, top and bottom and drywalled on both sides. I have not seen a wall built as an perimeter wall where this can be done, only one side gets drywalled and truthfully only one side gets screwed..... So it is not only half as strong if you use narrower studs, it is half as strong again if you use narrow stud on a perimeter wall.

TBFGhost

Agreed, that is what we do...if it is 3 1/4" base, we use a 2 5/8 strip, we space the rock/ply off the ground 3/8 of an inch. Also, if you have a welder....cut your studs, put them in place, and then just go down the line and tack each stud in place...much faster and much less annoying then trying to use PK screws,,,

We Fix Houses

Don't forget to isolate the bottom metal track from the concrete with a Vycor membrane. Metal in contact with concrete will rust.