Marriage Of Metal And Wood

loneframer

This is the house I've been on for almost 1 1/2 years.

loneframer

Getting closer

OW! My thumb

But what will the children be raised as?

Anyway, that is probably the future of residential houses.Wood framing could very well be a thing of the past.
You got a good jump on everyone else in my opinion.
And nice looking to,(too,tue?)

Hardly Working

Looks great.

Hows the marriage going. Do you love steel or hate it.

loneframer

Thanks OW!, but they're going to have to find a better way to fasten all the components together before it will ever become competative with wood. It easily took 6 to 7 times as long to do this with metal, and we're still roughing in mechanicals.Actually it was a threesome, if you count the concrete floors.

loneframer

The finished product will be straighter than anything I've done in wood, but it has kicked my butt Chuck Norris style. I never though I'd get tired of screwing but this is over the top.

Gus Dering

Year and a half? What the hell is taking so long?
I did this last weekend

loneframer

You musta had a cnc router setup to do that in a weekend

Gus Dering

Actually, it only took a minute

loneframer

This is all I had to work with.

Gus Dering

A blind man can see that I'm better equipped than you , young whipper snapper.

You have learned well grasshopper

Good night, Mary Ellen

loneframer

Good night, John Boy

OW! My thumb

Give it time for innovation and fire codes to set in,...sooner or later, residential will meet, or at least come close to, the requirements of commercial buildings.
We may have a battery powered steel fastening "nail/rivet" gun before you know it.

loneframer

The homeowner brought us over a pnuematic rivet gun, just a pull of the trigger and clink, rivet is in and the pin ejects into a collection vial. If we could have used that instead of screws, it probably would've cut the time by 30%

joasis

I have an ICF/steel studded home build coming up, and this will be new territory for me as well. It will be interesting

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loneframer

It was a great experience for me, but you really need to invest in the right tools for the job. Roughing it with woodworking tools will cost you more money in the long run in labor. I spent days cutting joists and studs with an industrial bandsaw, it would have cost a fortune in abrasive blades even though it would have been somewhat faster.
Hre's a few early stage pix, the third one is the floor before the concrete pour, showing the radiant tubing.

Morning Wood

Looks very nice. Question. with all that steel in the walls what do you guys do for a thermal break on the studs etc?

RobertCDF

It looks great and should be nice house... The HO will be pissed when his cell phone dont work inside and he needs to setup a repeater for his wifi because it wont cover his entire house.

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Robert Shaw
Colorado Springs Custom Decks
Colorado Custom Decks
Custom Composite Decks

loneframer

I was concerned about thermal bridging myself. The homeowner is the GC in this case and we turn to him for answers to these questions. All the headers and inaccessable cavities were filled with ridgid foam insulation, there is 3/4 T&G advantech on exterior walls with 30# felt, homeslicker ventilation mesh and cedar shake siding. All stud bays will be insulated with unfaced batts and a foil faced vapor barrier will be applied with 2 sided tape to metal studs, then 5/8 T&G will be applied over barrier and finally sheetrock.
Personally I think 1/2" foam should've been installed over exterior plywood, but it didn't happen.
What's your oppinion on this?

Chris Johnson

Yes, install the foam as the thermal break, but use 1" min., mind you I'm thinking you zone is going to need 2".

Anyone do heat loss calcs for this place? Using the old R value, those walls with steel frame are less than 50% of the nominal pink stuff your putting in.

Another better idea is to use spray foam, like Demilac or something like that.

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Chris