Log Framing For Outside Porch

bruceerice

What is the best way to cut two 8" pine logs to fit together at 90 degrees for making corners? We are doing a porch cover using 8" lodge pole pines as our frame and having difficulty getting the cuts to look good.

We're trying to use a chain saw and and a saw saw- any other better ideas?

reveivl

It's hard to do well, and takes a lot of practice. I assume these are horizontals? Do they have to be mitered both ends or just one? The reason I ask is if it is only one end, then cut the logs as close to 45 as you can, then put them together, and keep running the saw through the cut taking one kerf off at a time until you get where you need to be. Then cut the square end to length.

If both ends need to be cut you can get some assistance out of nailing some 1x2 or whatever top and bottom of the log on the 45 and then some pieces between those vertically, using it to help guide your eye as you cut. A spotter watching you can also help. Do both ends in one set up so you don't move your log between cuts. Make sure the log cannot roll. Sharp chainsaw.

If you have one long run, can you split it in two and put an easier scarf joint in the middle?

Just thoughts...

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Kgmz

I am assuming this is the frame above the porch. So why are you trying to miter the corners. This is something I have really never seen done. And for good reason, it is hard to get perfect, and how are you going to deal with the upcoming shrinkage, twisting, etc.


Usually the corners of the frame are saddle notched where that pass over, and have the ends look out about a 6 inches to a foot.

If you want a clean look like a miter I would do a dove tail so that they stay locked together.

Snobnd

I use a jig and a sawsall like the old trim cut boxes.

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borat_borat1950

Not sure about the spelling, 12" fine toothed chainsaw that bolts to your skillsaw, build a jig on a level surface and clamp your log solid, compare diameters of logs and hack away, depending on the temp and humidity allow for expansion or contraction. That nasty ass caulking will hide any problems you have with fitting.

DrewD

First, are the logs "natural" 8" or are they from a log kit with identical measurements? I will assume they are natural like the picture Snobnd posted, close to 8" but maybe not exact. If you looking for a 45 miter nail two peices of scrap on saw horses to cradle the log. Use the large speed square to mark a line. Start with a circ. saw and a fine tooth blade, score a line less than 1/2" deep all around. Use the chainsaw to clean out the material up to the miter. Get a Lancelot 4" wheel from lancelot with a fine tooth chainsaw blade to put on your angle grinder. Touch up the miters and finish with a flap edge sanding disc and if you want to get really tricky use a razor blade. It takes time and patience if you have it. I have matched logs so tight you couldn't fit a peice of paper between them. It takes lots of time and can get frustating quickly. The other method is to run one pole long (usually to match with the gable over hang) and the shorter one runs into this one. Use a transfer scribe on the the two and carve out the shorter one to match the contour. Hope this helps. Working with logs is part building and part art and a lot of headaches.

knucklehead

I use a right angle grinder with a blade that kinda like a rasp. I am not sure what it is called

TempestV

Like this?

It's called the Galahad, and it's made by the same people that make the Lancelot that Drew was talking about.
http://www.katools.com/index.html

Anyways, if you have vertical room, I would saddle notch the logs. If there isn't room to stagger one log over another, then Drew was right on the money-
I'd add to that, after the scribe is done, drill a 2" countersink hole in the log that runs past, and pre drill for the biggest lag you can find to run back into the scribed log. After the logs have dried as much as they are going to (not sure how green of logs you have), glue a 2" diameter dry branch of the same type of wood into the countersink hole and cut it off flush. If it's done right, it should look like a knot, rather than a filled hole. If the scribed beam is load bearing, I would still do some sort of knee brace off of the post as well. Through-bolt the knee brace on, using the same branch method to fill the holes.

knucklehead

Exactly. that is it.

Gus Dering

This is awfully late for the OP but if you need a fun way of doing that, I did this with a hand held router and an angle grinder.

Tom Struble

beauty Gus are those pieces of copper 1/2 round gutters?very nice

Gus Dering

Yes, The house belongs to a 3rd generation heating and air tin knocker.One of the second generation guys did the gutters.
Some of the best people you would want to meet. I owe a huge gratitude to the family for my success in this area.
And he won't let me forget it either.