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Old 01-11-2009, 06:12 PM   #1
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How to lift HUGE wall?

I just finished a HUGE wall. It took my head framer 2 days just to build it. It is 30' wide and 27' tall. It is a end wall with 12 windows in it and most of it is Paralam with multiple 2x10 headers across the top and it is sheathed and Tyveked. It is out in the boonies and a crane will not come to the site. It is on a 2nd floor on a lake. The only thing that I see that could help is an 18" Hemlock tree directly infront of the wall. How do I safely lift it with a 5 1/2 man crew (3 of us have all had back surgery)? It will be very top heavy. I'm just scared we will get it 4-5' off the ground and all bust a nut and drop it. Any suggestions?

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Old 01-11-2009, 06:15 PM   #2
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Wall jacks, telescopic handler, come-a-longs tied to the big tree, etc....


Why did you build it that big without a back-up plan?
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Old 01-11-2009, 06:17 PM   #3
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A REALLY BIG 4x4 construction fork lift. but what you really need is a crane
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Old 01-11-2009, 06:28 PM   #4
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Sounds like the guy that built a boat in his basement story.
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Old 01-11-2009, 06:35 PM   #5
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We built it with the intention of getting a crane in to lift it. Unfortunately with the snow and the terrain, no crane will come in. We have lifted bigger ones by hand but not one this top heavy. This is what is scaring me. Now we are stuck and have no way to get it up. (I don't think Viagra will lift this one LOL)
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Old 01-11-2009, 06:54 PM   #6
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P-P-P-P-P-P

That about sums it up
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Old 01-11-2009, 06:57 PM   #7
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P-P-P-P-P-P

That about sums it up
That is one of my best sayings on the job site and fits this thread perfectly.

Proper planning prevents piss poor production

My question is the same as everyone elses.....did ANYONE think about this?
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Old 01-11-2009, 07:09 PM   #8
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In all fairness....this sort of thing does seem to happen sometimes.

Here is an example of an epic fail:











This one is just to take the sting off the first one:



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Old 01-11-2009, 07:12 PM   #9
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Well we are going to lift it by hand tomorrow. I'll let you know how we make out.
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Old 01-11-2009, 07:16 PM   #10
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I just finished a HUGE wall. It took my head framer 2 days just to build it. It is 30' wide and 27' tall. It is a end wall with 12 windows in it and most of it is Paralam with multiple 2x10 headers across the top and it is sheathed and Tyveked. It is out in the boonies and a crane will not come to the site. It is on a 2nd floor on a lake. The only thing that I see that could help is an 18" Hemlock tree directly infront of the wall. How do I safely lift it with a 5 1/2 man crew (3 of us have all had back surgery)? It will be very top heavy. I'm just scared we will get it 4-5' off the ground and all bust a nut and drop it. Any suggestions?
If your just worried about the first four or five feet have some solid horses to kick under there to take a rest. then get some single nail/hinge point kickers that will drag and pivot with you as you go up so you have a rest if you start to lose it. Then go like ell and make sure there is no wind off the lake. ...No wonder you guys have had back surgery..
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Old 01-11-2009, 07:22 PM   #11
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I just finished a HUGE wall. It took my head framer 2 days just to build it. It is 30' wide and 27' tall. It is a end wall with 12 windows in it and most of it is Paralam with multiple 2x10 headers across the top and it is sheathed and Tyveked. It is out in the boonies and a crane will not come to the site. It is on a 2nd floor on a lake. The only thing that I see that could help is an 18" Hemlock tree directly infront of the wall. How do I safely lift it with a 5 1/2 man crew (3 of us have all had back surgery)? It will be very top heavy. I'm just scared we will get it 4-5' off the ground and all bust a nut and drop it. Any suggestions?
If this ever happens again,you can frame that wall without the sheathing or a crane by just framing up the corners bracing them off. After that throw a couple studs or king studs in braced where you can put top plates on. Make a scaffold from the corner studs to the studs you nailed in. From the scaffold nail the top plates on and just fill in every king stud, studs and headers. Sheath after the wall is up.
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Old 01-11-2009, 07:23 PM   #12
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Well we are going to lift it by hand tomorrow. I'll let you know how we make out.
where in the boonies are you bro, when i usually build big Composit decks and i mess up the level i use truck jacks, same thing when i change house beams, just gotta make sure you got the wall balance
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Old 01-11-2009, 07:34 PM   #13
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Wall jack will lift anything!!!! Placed in the proper places with tie down strap attached to the wall.(so it doesnt go toppling over) I lifted a 35 foot gable end that was a 2x6 frame sheethed with half inch. Not to mention the soffit that was framed with 2x6 studs and trimmed with azac, All i'm saying is don't be afraid of the weight, just take the necessary precautiuons.
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Old 01-11-2009, 07:35 PM   #14
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If the tree is close to the centerline of the wall I would be tempted to give it a shot.

Did the bottom plate get a butt load of nails to the deck prior to sheething?

Is there a 4x4 truck on site? Good traction area to use it to pull a 3 part line?

Good rope and pulleys on the pull side. Use 2 pick points and stiffen up the top of the wall with something. Rope up the interior side to prevent tip over.
Maybe some A34,s to fold under the bottom plate. Blocks on the rim as a last resort.

Keep the boys out of the fall zone.

You got the idea. A little crazy but you won't be yawning while you're doin it.

Impossible to give enough advise to make a big difference without a few pics. But sounds like your only hope at the moment.

Time to man up, stay safe, and roll the dice.

Or find a crane
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Old 01-11-2009, 08:34 PM   #15
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what need be done is fairly simple. It requires two pulleys. A double pulley at the anchor point, the tree and a single pulley on the wall placed about 2/3 the way up the wall. The rope is anchored to the wall, it then goes to the tree pulley, comes back to the pulley on the wall, then back to the second wheel of the tree pulley, back to who or what ever is doing the pulling. This will take up three times the amount of rope pulled but it will reduce the assumed weight to 1/3 therefore making it fairly easy to pull.
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Old 01-11-2009, 09:08 PM   #16
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what need be done is fairly simple. It requires two pulleys. A double pulley at the anchor point, the tree and a single pulley on the wall placed about 2/3 the way up the wall. The rope is anchored to the wall, it then goes to the tree pulley, comes bag to the pulley on the wall, then back to the second wheel of the tree pulley, back to who or what ever is doing the pulling. This will take up three times the amount of rope pulled but it will reduce the assumed weight to 1/3 therefore making it fairly easy to pull.
It ain't that heavy.

Anyway keeping it from going over is probably as much of a problem as getting it up there. Then securing it for wind until you get a couple of wall butted to it.
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Old 01-11-2009, 09:15 PM   #17
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Well we are going to lift it by hand tomorrow. I'll let you know how we make out.

A few pictures would be nice too
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Old 01-11-2009, 09:20 PM   #18
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A few pictures would be nice too
He may not be around to post them.


But I hope he is and I second pics.
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Old 01-11-2009, 09:30 PM   #19
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why wasnt it stick framed

work off pipe staging on the inside while framing

sheath if by working off pump jacks outside
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Old 01-11-2009, 09:56 PM   #20
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why wasnt it .....

See post #6
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