Hey Jersey Guys!

K2

I know we've discussed Cats, 5/4, flitch plates , toe nailing, liners, lally columns, and taylor ham, but I think there is something else youse guys do dirrerently than the rest of the country. Do you still run your wall sheathing horizontally/ the same as you would run it on a roof ?? That was how i did it in NJ 30 years ago and I think it is the best way to run sheathing for several reasons. I'm reasonably certain in most parts of the country guys run it vertically on the walls, horizontal on the roof.

Of course I'm not talking about any blackboard, foilback, cardboard sheathing. Just good ol 3 to 7 ply ply or nowdays osb.

Any comments??

Any Jersey Guys left here??

Joe Carola

I'm here. We still run sheathiing horizontally and still have sheathing crews.

One thing I did for the first time was frame an addition with 2x12 floor joists @ 24" centers.

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Joe Carola

K2

Hey Joe, I know 3/4 t&g is rated for 24 inch centers but evn here in the "Wild West" we would rarely do that although I would have no problem with 19.2.

BirmanBuilders

The inspectors would have a heart attack if they saw us running the sheets horizontally. Plus they'd make us put in blocks where the joint in the ply is. This stops any lateral movement when its all nailed. But by the sounds of it you guys use sheeting crews. We sheet and paper all of our walls on the deck then stand them up. Only way I've ever known, but we all know there is more than one way to skin a cat.

Joe Carola

Not everyone uses sheathing crews around here. It doesn't matter whether you use them or not, we still run the plywood horizontally. Never heard or seen blocking at joints horizontally before until reading on forums like this. We don't need it here and it's not code. No problems with lateral movement either.

As far as framing the walls and sheathing them first, we don't do that here. I did frame that way when I lived in Cape Cod back in 1984. We nail all our bottom plates down on the chalk lines and then tack the first of the two top plates down to the bottom plate lapping all top plates into each other.

We then nail the top plate onto that plate and lay out the 16" center studs,windows,doors, on the sides of the plates of the outside walls. On top of the plates I lay out all partitions above, toilet centers, special beams.....etc. After that I snap lines across from the front wall to the back wall and side to side holding the chalkline on the 16" center marks. That marks every single interior wall top plate. Then I just set my square on the deck against the chalklines and scribe down the side of all plates and mark my 16" center studs. This way I don’t take out my tape, all the 16" centers follow straight through and the top plates are marked for all the joists.

After everything is laid out I pull the tacked two top plates out of the two longest outside walls first setting the top of the top plate down facing the deck. I then nail the headers in and toenail the king studs to the plates and nail them into the side of the headers. Once all the headers are in we drop of them down to the deck. We then stack the walls with the rest of the studs with the sighted crowns facing up and toenail the studs to the top plate.

Once we’re done we slide the wall until the bottom of the studs hit the nailed in bottom plate and then we lift the walls on top of the plate. We nail off the outside corner and brace them up and then brace the center and then go around and raise the rest of the walls. While I’m doing that someone else toenails off the bottom of all studs.

It might sound crazy to you because it does on other forums where guys frame your way. I thought it was nuts when I framed your way in the Cape years ago and th3ey thought that I was nuts the way I framed. Both ways work. There have been many threads on this subject. We also don’t strap either, in the Cape they strapped. That’s another thread also.

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Joe Carola

Glasshousebltr

Hey Joe .....think about this ......if a fire gets in that wall cavity, it suck air right threw that seam like a hover, even with wood siding, the place could burn a lot quicker.

Just a thought.

Bob

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Bob

K2

The wall cavity is insulated and the house is wrapped. The joints are pretty tight.

Joe Carola

Bob,

That's not true at all Bob.What are you talking about?

Are you saying that since we sheath horizontally that we should put blocking between every single bay at the joints in case of a fire and the fire burning through the siding?

I'm not the Architect or Engineer that's designs the houses. I build them according to their plans. If that's the case then the thousands and thousands of houses and additions that are built and are being built should be designed different if it was an issue.

I do alot of fire jobs and what you’re saying isn't an issue. The sheathing has to be replaced sometimes because the inside of it is charred and the siding is alright. That little seam doesn’t seem to make a difference because the sheathing is charred all over.

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Joe Carola

Glasshousebltr

I've never even seen sheathing installed in that method Joe. So input on what it does or doesn't do is beyond me. I wasn't insulting the method. Let's just say I was thinking out loud.

Bob

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Bob

AMLConstruction

Here in il. we run it vertical on walls we would be ridiculed and humiliated if it were ran any other way.when I was in jersey for my cuzs wedding I saw her house in the rough stage and it was ran vertical as well, that was in berlin new jersey .

Joe Carola

Bob,

I didn't think that you were insulting the method. Some guys do though and they shouldn't. I've done it both ways like I've said in the past. They both work.

On another forum there's a guy from Rhode Island and he said that he's zone 2 and he has to sheath the roofs with 5/8" t&g. Things are different all over.

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Joe Carola

Joe Carola

Was it osb?

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Joe Carola

AMLConstruction

It was about 3 yrs ago when it was framed and I think it was CDX.

K2

The old Uniform Building Code had engineering tables for the different ways it could be run. It also had engineering regarding the difference between 3 ply, 5 ply, and 7ply.

Vertical on the walls is the accepted way here but I have seen engineering that required 5 ply run horizontally here. Like Joe said both ways work.

At least the country agrees on the way to sheath a roof.

In my opinion the vertical sheathing is a left over from the days of 9' blackboard/celotex and 9' foilback. 9' goods could cover mud sill to top plate on the old ranch style homes with one piece. I'd never seen black or foil in NJ.

njcarp

seen it on old houses but never new ones...if you got extra work near my way give me a shout at dc4488@hotmail.com

TempestV

I've done it both ways on different jobs, and I have seen the horizontal way with and without blocking. I've also seen sheathing going on while it's on the deck, and after the walls get stood up. I was taught to tack the top plate and bottom plate together with 2 8's, pull a tape and mark window and door openings, specials, and commons, square both plates, pop the plates apart, toenail the bottom plate to the chaulk line on edge, stock the wall, then either stand it and sheath it in place, or square it, sheath and cut window openings, tyvek and stand it.