Gable Studs - Page 9 - Contractor Talk - Professional Construction and Remodeling Forum

FramingPro · 02-08-2010, 09:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by loneframer

Get yourself a box-O-gangnailers and build trusses, no ridge to deal with at all.

I can build both but i prefer stick framing

**loneframer** · 02-08-2010, 09:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FramingPro

By draftstop we mean something to well..stop drafts?

Yes, sometimes referred to as firestops as well.

FramingPro · 02-08-2010, 09:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Timuhler

You got it 100%

Just brace the assembly to the wall with a 45 brace to keep it perfect and then let the siders take the brace off. The largest overhang I've framed this way is 16". Any longer and I'd leave gaps in the topplate for lookouts to run back in.

The wall is stiffer framing it all the way up instead of to the rafter.

Well i build sheds so i do everything..the sider is me..but i usually use plywood and paint it for siding

**loneframer** · 02-08-2010, 09:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FramingPro

I can build both but i prefer stick framing

Me too, bro, me too.

FramingPro · 02-08-2010, 09:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by loneframer

Yes, sometimes referred to as firestops as well.

Yep I'm more familiar with fire stop

FramingPro · 02-08-2010, 09:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by loneframer

Me too, bro, me too.

I work alone and rolling trusses well on the plates myself is not fun

FramingPro · 02-08-2010, 09:57 PM

Tim could you answer my last question on page 7 please and I will never comment on this again

ubenhad4 · 02-08-2010, 09:58 PM

If i ripped them id still have the draft stop at the wall plate live. It would be faster to rip them down then to notch in my outriggers just to reblock the outriggers at the out side of the wall 4 inches away. I d have to run my outriggers back to the first rafter to get the support the eve. When you guys run your rake walls up to sheeting, then run outriggers, in a vaulted room with struct ridge no collarties what would you do? If theres a faster better way im all for it, I know that running walls to sheething eliminate a hinge which im way into, looked at this a couple of times just havent come up with an economical, efficiant way of dealing with it. On some houses balloon framing to sheething is called out. In those cases we rip sheething to fill from ceiling backing to wall top plate but this takes more time then running gable rafter on typical rake walls.

Timuhler · 02-08-2010, 10:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FramingPro

so you frame it to the bottom now?

The double topplate is the same plane as the top of the rafter. I used to frame the wall with the rafter in it because it idiot proofed the wall, but it makes the wall less stiff.

Was that the question you had?

knucklehead · 02-08-2010, 10:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FramingPro

I work alone and rolling trusses well on the plates myself is not fun

Compared to what other way by yourself?

Timuhler · 02-08-2010, 10:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ubenhad4

If i ripped them id still have the draft stop at the wall plate live. It would be faster to rip them down then to notch in my outriggers just to reblock the outriggers at the out side of the wall 4 inches away. I d have to run my outriggers back to the first rafter to get the support the eve. When you guys run your rake walls up to sheeting, then run outriggers, in a vaulted room with struct ridge no collarties what would you do? If theres a faster better way im all for it, I know that running walls to sheething eliminate a hinge which im way into, looked at this a couple of times just havent come up with an economical, efficiant way of dealing with it. On some houses balloon framing to sheething is called out. In those cases we rip sheething to fill from ceiling backing to wall top plate but this takes more time then running gable rafter on typical rake walls.

Under the IRC if that gable wall has fiberglass batts installed to the top of the wall, you do not need fireblocks.

FramingPro · 02-08-2010, 10:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Timuhler

The double topplate is the same plane as the top of the rafter. I used to frame the wall with the rafter in it because it idiot proofed the wall, but it makes the wall less stiff.

Was that the question you had?

It goes with a picture on page 7 i cant copy that whole thing

Timuhler · 02-08-2010, 10:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by festerized

Sorry guys I was on a few estimates, anyway
Framepro for being 13/14 you got some spunk, I like that. When you turn 18[by then the market will be booming again] come to jersey, I’ll put ya to work.
Tim good job, how long does it take to frame the gable wall your way verse stick framing, then sheath after?

I don't have the numbers. I think Kyle and I framed that GR wall in less than 3 hours total including overhangs? I don't know though, it might have been longer.

The framing goes fast, then the parts I don't like doing, sheathing and building the overhangs. I really don't enjoy it, but I like it when its done.

FramingPro · 02-08-2010, 10:15 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by Timuhler

I'll get to it a little later. If you look at the pictures and the video, I think you'll have it figured out.

+ YouTube Video ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.

Ok im sorry last question about this before you drop a wall on me..

In the picture above i notice a pocket for the ridge but i notice part of the piece of the ladder on the wall covers the end..do you need to remove it so you could extend the ridge to hold the barge rafter or does it not matter

Timuhler · 02-08-2010, 10:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FramingPro

Ok im sorry last question about this before you drop a wall on me..

In the picture above i notice a pocket for the ridge but i notice part of the piece of the ladder on the wall covers the end..do you need to remove it so you could extend the ridge to hold the barge rafter or does it not matter

We used to notch that out so that the ridge could help hold the overhangs. Not anymore. We just butt it to the back of the sheathing. The flyrafters (barge) at the top basically opposed each other, so if it is built square off the wall and lines up, it'll stay there, plus we add the soffit board.

Its really at the bottom where you need to have it attached to the fascia/subfascia.

By the way, I'm not impatient with you, I'm a little short on time. Keep asking questions, but maybe really think things through so you can ask a bunch of questions at once.

It is a pleasure to see someone young who wants to learn. That is great to see.

FramingPro · 02-08-2010, 10:19 PM

Thank you very much.8 months later i have my answer and i will use your technique for now on

ubenhad4 · 02-08-2010, 10:20 PM

Tim your 100% right on batt insul being fireblock. All the houses Ive framed in the past 5 years have been blown in walls. Our inspectors consider this loose fill insulation so it will not constitute draft stop. On the greatroom barrel we framed a couple months ago we had to make sure the insulators batted the walls at the curve to get the draft stop, the builders and the insulators wouldnt go for that on every rake wall. I wish it would make a better rake wall like you said there stiffer to the sheething.

festerized · 02-08-2010, 10:47 PM

Tim
I’m walking on egg shells here so be easy
How do account for wall heights being different as I discredited earlier? Couldn’t see if you answered with the young buck smothering the thread
How long to frame and sheath the whole house? 7 working days?
Can you frame the whole roof in one day, rafters collar ties, gable pins, fascia etc.
In NJ, inspectors frown upon using ladder style framing for fly rafters, as we have high wind loads/uplift
We have no choice on trusses
Here NJ we have to lap are sheathing even between the two floors or gable wall.
This helps with wind loads/uplift and gable wall from “blowing out” in the event of a fire.

KennMacMoragh · 02-09-2010, 12:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FramingPro

Yep I'm more familiar with fire stop

Fire stop and draft stop are technically two different things, but they are used interchangeably. If you have a code book you can look up the definition of the two, although I don't know about Canadian code.

Timuhler · 02-09-2010, 12:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by festerized

Tim
I’m walking on egg shells here so be easy
How do account for wall heights being different as I discredited earlier? Couldn’t see if you answered with the young buck smothering the thread
How long to frame and sheath the whole house? 7 working days?
Can you frame the whole roof in one day, rafters collar ties, gable pins, fascia etc.
In NJ, inspectors frown upon using ladder style framing for fly rafters, as we have high wind loads/uplift
We have no choice on trusses
Here NJ we have to lap are sheathing even between the two floors or gable wall.
This helps with wind loads/uplift and gable wall from “blowing out” in the event of a fire.

You don't have to walk on eggshells with me, I'm not too easily bugged or take things personally.

To frame and sheathe that whole house with an avg of 2 1/2 guys :-) I'd have to get the hours at the end, but I'm thinking for whole project start to finish if we had good weather, probably 4 weeks total.

We'll start framing the roof tomorrow, we have the ceiling joists in today and the ridges set. Can we frame it in a day? Not with just Kyle and myself tomorrow. Maybe a couple of years ago when I had a crew of 4 where we had framed a lot together, but even then I think two days would be reasonable.

Here it depends on what the engineer calls out for sheathing, but I usually plan the sheathing that the first floor walls the sheathing will cover the rim and sill, the 2nd floor walls cover the rim and nail into the topplate of the first floor walls.