Gable Studs

Originally Posted by ubenhad4

What do you guys do about draft stops from walls to rafter bays. I framed my rake walls to bottom of sheething on one house a few years ago, thought i was slick skipping a step, then the inspector made me fire block at ceiling height. Not fun 6200 sq ft of house alot of blocking up in the air.Haven't tried it again since.

Originally Posted by loneframer

The fastest way on a vaulted ceiling is just throw a full rafter in for a nailer, then block at collar tie height.

Originally Posted by ubenhad4

lone,
I had thought about that cause it would make a closed cavity, but when I drop my rake I would have to rip the rafter or cut outlooks in so ive just stuck with a gable rafter. 6 of one half dozen of another with live outlooks

Originally Posted by ubenhad4

To let my outlooks go over the top, they would either get ripped or more likely notched for outlooks.

Originally Posted by ubenhad4

If I was using 2x12 rafters and was running my outlooks over the rake wall the rafter that lone said to put in against the wall would either need to be notched for the outlooks or just ripped down 1 1/2 or what ever we where running for outlooks.

Originally Posted by FramingPro

Ok so for my shed I want a cathedral ceiling to save on ceiling joists and stuff so I need to make my ridge loadbearing so it does not push the walls out because the ridge carries the load..over an 8 foot span would 2 2 x6s be ok?

Originally Posted by knucklehead

You don't need anything special for a ridge

Originally Posted by festerized

Sorry guys I was on a few estimates, anyway
Framepro for being 13/14 you got some spunk, I like that. When you turn 18[by then the market will be booming again] come to jersey, I’ll put ya to work.
Tim good job, how long does it take to frame the gable wall your way verse stick framing, then sheath after?

Originally Posted by knucklehead

You said a shed? How big? I have never used a double anything for a ridge that I remember

Originally Posted by ubenhad4

To let my outlooks go over the top, they would either get ripped or more likely notched for outlooks.

Originally Posted by loneframer

If you rip 'em, you lose the draft stop, rendering it a waste of time and money.

Originally Posted by FramingPro

From my understanding Tim you build your rakewalls so that the top plate is the top of the rafter but your saying it works the same way if you build your rakewalls to the bottom of the rafter and stick your ladder on the top plate? And your saying you don't cantilever back into the rafters because the overhangs you frame are short and you find now need too. And finally your saying that if you build it your way and nail the ladder to the side or my way and nail the ladder to the plate as long as the overhang is not to long,you nail it well and if it is held by the subfascia it will not shear off the wall and sag...when i say sag i don't mean sagging over the span of the rafter but actually sagging off the wall.

I know you have explained this many times but I just want to be 100% sure so that i can use better methods when I frame my sheds :p

Originally Posted by Timuhler

You got it 100% Just brace the assembly to the wall with a 45 brace to keep it perfect and then let the siders take the brace off. The largest overhang I've framed this way is 16". Any longer and I'd leave gaps in the topplate for lookouts to run back in.

The wall is stiffer framing it all the way up instead of to the rafter.

Originally Posted by FramingPro

Ok so for my shed I want a cathedral ceiling to save on ceiling joists and stuff so I need to make my ridge loadbearing so it does not push the walls out because the ridge carries the load..over an 8 foot span would 2 2 x6s be ok?