Gable Studs

FramingPro

But it is ok if you build them to the bottom of the rafter aswell? And your saying as long as i nail it to the wall alot and it is held at the fascia it won't shear off?

Warren

No shears in 25 years!

FramingPro

But if the overhang is bigger i should cantilever back in.. I do that now when i build sheds but I think for now on I will take your word and do it your way

loneframer

I have a buddy who used to build the gable walls like Tim, until one of his men got squished by one. They couldn't get the lift behind the house, so they lifted it by hand. The wind caught it while they were bracing off and dropped it.

I have never built them that way, due to the fact that I never had access to use a lift efficiently on the properties I've worked on. All my ridges get set first and the gable pins typically get notched onto the gable rafters. Just the way I learned and became efficient at.

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FramingPro

Thats what my grandpa used to do because he framed alone and couldn't lift big walls.Did your friend die

loneframer

Permanently disabled, not my buddy, but someone on his crew. I didn't know the guy myself.

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FramingPro

Dam

FramingPro

Ok im sorry last question about this before you drop a wall on me..
In the picture above i notice a pocket for the ridge but i notice part of the piece of the ladder on the wall covers the end..do you need to remove it so you could extend the ridge to hold the barge rafter or does it not matter

FramingPro

wait where do i go to start my own thread

loneframer

Situations like what happened to that guy are why I started sheathing my walls after they are standing. I've seen several walls get taken off the building by the winds that prevail along the coast. They can blow up out of nowhere and cause problems quickly. Many of the buildings are only 8' apart and I've seen some exterior stairways get crushed by lost walls. I also know of several buildings that blew completely over due to the roofs being sheathed before the walls. I always get my walls up to the roofline, then sheath them up before starting the roof framing. This is the only time I can remember framing the roof before sheathing the walls.

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"Walking the fine line between production and perfection"



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FramingPro

So the only reason you build the walls to the sheathing is to eliminate the hinge point you get if you do it the other way? Or is there really no difference as long as they stay standing

Tom M

Wouldn't framing to the sheathing cause a shrinkage issue? The vertical wall wont shrink like the rafter will.

FramingPro

Good question

loneframer

I've seen this problem with walls pinned to the underside of the rafter and sheathed to near the top of the gable rafter as well. Same thing when you sheath across the box with conventional lumber. Lumber shrinks but the plywood doesn't give. I've seen it cause problems with interior doors and floors adjacent to the wall. It's not as much an issue with KD or S-Dry lumber, but we used to get lots of S-GRN back in the day, until fungus problems prompted the yards to stock dried lumber.

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"Walking the fine line between production and perfection"



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Tom M

I wouldnt sheath to the top of the gable either. Leave it short like gapping walls and floor breaks.

knucklehead

What is going to shrink?

festerized

Sorry guys I was on a few estimates, anyway
Framepro for being 13/14 you got some spunk, I like that. When you turn 18[by then the market will be booming again] come to jersey, I’ll put ya to work.
Tim good job, how long does it take to frame the gable wall your way verse stick framing, then sheath after?

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FramingPro

I live in Toronto soo we might have a problem

Chris@Sunrise

What do you guys do about draft stops from walls to rafter bays. I framed my rake walls to bottom of sheething on one house a few years ago, thought i was slick skipping a step, then the inspector made me fire block at ceiling height. Not fun 6200 sq ft of house alot of blocking up in the air.Haven't tried it again since.

FramingPro

so you frame it to the bottom now?