Gable Studs

KennMacMoragh

It may seem unprofessional to us now, but imagine what our future generation is going to be. Adults will be walking around with their pants down to their knees. And business letters will be written up in the form of "How R U, wut, Y?". The kids got it figured out, it's more efficient. Why wear a belt? And why not shorten up your spelling, it's faster.

KennMacMoragh

Pretty cool, I've never seen lookouts done this way out of the hundreds of roofs I've messed with. I don't know if that technique is allowed here though, we only use the 2x4 laid flat method. The times I've framed in your area Tim, in Kitsap, I was amazed at how lenient the building inspectors were. They let us get away with stuff that no way you could get away with if you framed in King County.

KentWhitten

The program is Picasa from Google. If you have a gmail account, you have access to many free items. It is really, really simple to upload pictures to your own personal photo collection.

http://picasa.google.com/

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If you correct your mind, the rest of your life will fall into place ~Lao Tzu

Custom Cabinetry - Portland, Cape Elizabeth, Scarborough, Kennebunkport, Yarmouth, Falmouth, Cumberland, Ogunquit, Maine

Salmon Falls Cabinetry

Timuhler

A lot in the posts to reply to, so I'll probably miss a few.

Regarding the need to make things perfect, and taking a gamble. A rakewall isn't really different in principle than an other wall that is squared and sheathed on the ground.

First off, the math doesn't lie. So if I have a wall that is standard height, say 92 5/8" studs, then my wall is 97 1/4" (years of using precuts will tell you that).

Ok, so I know my heelstand (HAP) before I start framing because I do So should anyone hand cutting a roof or trussing. So I can measure up at the corners square whatever that is, say 10".

Now, I calculate my rafter lengths off the length I cut my plate, which is cut to the lines on the floor. The lines on the floor are dead square and parallel. How do I know they are perfect? Because I snap them that way. I either use my calculator or the laser to establish perfectly square (unless the wind blows the laser line )

So if for instance my rafter length is 15' exactly (I dont account for the ridge. I tack a nail at my 10" marks and swing two arcs 15'. This automatically locates the center of the gable. I snap that line and then one 3" lower for 2 topplates and start framing. Oh and if the deck is dry enough I snap the center through and the kings.

I locate my ridge post working backwards from the peak.

This is not rocket science. As far as I'm concerned for the wall, I need to know 4 things 1) the span 2) my wall heights and 3) my heelstand (HAP) 4) slope or pitch of the roof.

I didn't snap the goofy wall with the 12-12 and 4-12 starting from different heightsr, I used the math and the rafters to locate it.

I can post quite a few pictures going back quite a few years that show I'm not gambling, they were right and worked. I've got an idiot proof method now that goes pretty fast. I stole the overhang detail from east coast guys who posted over at Breaktime and we haven't looked back since (we started putting the overhangs on in 2006)

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Timuhler

We've come a long way rigging since this wall

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Framer53

Good answer Tim!!

FramingPro

I wear my carhart pants at proper height but other kids don't

FramingPro

From my understanding Tim you build your rakewalls so that the top plate is the top of the rafter but your saying it works the same way if you build your rakewalls to the bottom of the rafter and stick your ladder on the top plate? And your saying you don't cantilever back into the rafters because the overhangs you frame are short and you find now need too. And finally your saying that if you build it your way and nail the ladder to the side or my way and nail the ladder to the plate as long as the overhang is not to long,you nail it well and if it is held by the subfascia it will not shear off the wall and sag...when i say sag i don't mean sagging over the span of the rafter but actually sagging off the wall.

I know you have explained this many times but I just want to be 100% sure so that i can use better methods when I frame my sheds :p

loneframer

That's exactly why I haven't seen a 19 year old, English speaking framer in the last 5 years. "Why work hard? why break a sweat? why work in the heat? why work in the cold? why work in the wind? why work in the rain? why take responsibility for my mistakes? why should I learn to build something with my own two hands?

My mom and dad bought me every video game system known to man, an I phone touch, new shoes when they get a scuff, baggy ass clothes so the kids won't tease me, they never holler at me 'cause they know I'll get mad at them...."

Sorry Kenn, I don't buy the efficiency line.

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"Walking the fine line between production and perfection"



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FramingPro

Im 13

loneframer

You're hired, as soon as you can legally pick up a power tool.

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"Walking the fine line between production and perfection"



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Ayerzee

"Efficient" = Lazy

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Dan

FramingPro

Well what do you mean legally..I have a skill mag 77

loneframer

13 doesn't fly in New Jersey.

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"Walking the fine line between production and perfection"



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FramingPro

Holy christ I'm 14..wow how could i make a mistake

loneframer

No sweat guy, when you're 44, you'll forget what month and day it is.

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"Walking the fine line between production and perfection"



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FramingPro

I hope not

FramingPro

so your saying it is generally a better idea to build the rakewall to the bottom of the sheathing?

FramingPro

so with your rakewalls you don't drop it the height of the rafter you just build it up to the bottom of the sheathing and put your ladder for the overhang on the side?

Warren

Yes