Gable Studs

FramingPro

ok and im a teenaged boy if it matters

KentWhitten

I would say that most framers do it this way. You can pre-make the gable overhangs, then nail them on to the wall, or you can one piece it and it usually holds together better.

Either way, when you run the roof sheathing over the top and nail it to the subfascia, that is not going to sag, or if it does, it's not going very far.

This is one of my pet peeves, that there is obviously a talent and knowledge that is required to fully understand that if you miss a step, then your overhangs will sag. If you think something doesn't matter, then it does.

You need the 2x's square and tight. And nail it tight to the wall. And pay attention if it's sagging or not. Then put the roof sheathing on and nail it good. If you grab a long 2x for the sub and it has a crown, then you get what you put in......a crappy subfascia.

__________________
If you correct your mind, the rest of your life will fall into place ~Lao Tzu

Custom Cabinetry - Portland, Cape Elizabeth, Scarborough, Kennebunkport, Yarmouth, Falmouth, Cumberland, Ogunquit, Maine

Salmon Falls Cabinetry

FramingPro

What do you mean by precut or one piece.

loneframer

The only reason it's relevant is because there is a certain amount of professionalism that is conveyed with proper spelling and punctuation. If you want to be taken seriously among the pros here, you need to take yourself seriously as well. I think it's great that a guy in his teens is interested enough in the trades to get involved here. Someone has to carry the torch when us old guys drop out of the race.

__________________
__________________________________




"Walking the fine line between production and perfection"



__________________________________

KentWhitten

Do we need to send you to the DIY site then?

__________________
If you correct your mind, the rest of your life will fall into place ~Lao Tzu

Custom Cabinetry - Portland, Cape Elizabeth, Scarborough, Kennebunkport, Yarmouth, Falmouth, Cumberland, Ogunquit, Maine

Salmon Falls Cabinetry

FramingPro

No man..been there done that

Tom Struble

oh....

__________________
Tom

Timuhler

FramingPro,

Take a really close look at the pictures posted here or go to my site. I'm a little short on time, but I think the pictures and captions explain it well enough.

When the roof sheathing is nailed to the gable assembly and flyrafter and the overhang is only 12", it isn't going to sag. Plus it is nailed to the fascia and subfascia.

I put the "soffit" ply on before we lift because that helps keep the gable wall straight. I use LP 12" unvented soffit 16' long. As you can see in the video I posted, that wall stayed nice and stiff being raised.

The braces I was talking about are either 2x4 or x6 with 45 beveled on each end that brace the gable assembly square to the wall.

__________________
http://picasaweb.google.com/TimothyUhler
www.pioneerbuildersonline.com
https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/1...0542215/albums

FramingPro

wow feels good to be back..I got banned for a week so what my question really was, doesn't moment shear the whole ladder assembly off the wall? And also do you do build the gable wall so the top plate is underneath the sheathing so that it eliminates the hingepoint that you get if you build the wall to the underside of the rafter and then build you ladder to support your overhang

Timuhler

I'll get to it a little later. If you look at the pictures and the video, I think you'll have it figured out.

+ YouTube Video

__________________
http://picasaweb.google.com/TimothyUhler
www.pioneerbuildersonline.com
https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/1...0542215/albums

festerized

Tim you have any finished framing pics of this job, before sheathing.
I don’t understand the sheathing first method and how the ridge ties into the gable.
Not mocking, just we don’t do that kind of framing around here.
What’s the pro’s and con’s doing it this way?

__________________
Addition Contractor Bayville Home Addition Monmouth Beach NJ Contractor Jackson NJ

“Photography is not art, It’s just a Xerox of what just happened”

BrianFox

Looks like he leaves a pocket where the ridge ties in. In the second to last pic where they are raising the wall you can see a pocket at the top inside the triple....

__________________
Happiness is produced not so much by great pieces of good fortune that seldom happen, as by little advantages that occur every day.
- Benjamin Franklin

festerized

the 2x4 nailer needs to be cut back

__________________
Addition Contractor Bayville Home Addition Monmouth Beach NJ Contractor Jackson NJ

“Photography is not art, It’s just a Xerox of what just happened”

Timuhler

That job in in process, so I'll get some shots today. We kept forgetting to cut that topplate back. But there is a pocket there for the size of the ridge. The ridge will sit in there and then we can nail through the topplates and and the studs on either side.

__________________
http://picasaweb.google.com/TimothyUhler
www.pioneerbuildersonline.com
https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/1...0542215/albums

festerized

You’re pretty confident that the common rafters will plane correctly.
The building would have to be perfectly square, parallel and the wall heights all must be dead on.
Not to mention the rafters must be cut perfect too. I do not doubt your skills here. I have built some complex roof system in my years and experience tells me you’re taking a gamble.
Even with structural engineered floor beams there is always a height difference that will cause your overall rafter height to change.
I look at it this way: one corner is down 1/8” and the other corner is up 1/8” you will have a ¼” difference which directly affects “total rafter height” and how each side would plane.
On another note, what program did you use to put your water mark on your pics?

__________________
Addition Contractor Bayville Home Addition Monmouth Beach NJ Contractor Jackson NJ

“Photography is not art, It’s just a Xerox of what just happened”

Gary H

If you know what you are doing it isn't a gamble. It is called true knowledge of your trade.

Gary H

Tim , everytime a see your pictures I learn something new. When you hook those straps though a 2x4 are you using timberlok screws? I am talking about the one that is attached to the top plate.

festerized

Gary no web site?
Looked you up on yahoo local, your a general contractor/side walk contractor?
Judging by your uneducated response you have no idea how to frame a house

__________________
Addition Contractor Bayville Home Addition Monmouth Beach NJ Contractor Jackson NJ

“Photography is not art, It’s just a Xerox of what just happened”

KentWhitten

C'mon guys, take it easy. There's no need to start messing up the thread.

I do my gables just as Tim shows and it comes out good. I have my own method of getting it just right so it does not cause a problem like Fester says, even though I know precisely what you mean. It is entirely possible to have that happen.

I realized many years ago that the one guy who understands this is yourself. The other guys on the crew......not likely. Even if you explain it, the processes to get there to do it right seem to be on the shortcut list and gets ****ed up.

I have also dropped the plates and put a rafter on top, then finish off the gable. Both ways work fine as I'm sure other methods do.

I would love to have a lift like Tim, but ATM I am in no need of one, especially the way the lumber yards work around here. I can definitely see the benefits, but to purchase or lease one of those, for me that's the deal breaker. I have united rentals nearby with a dozen waiting to go out. Maybe they'll sell me one cheap.

__________________
If you correct your mind, the rest of your life will fall into place ~Lao Tzu

Custom Cabinetry - Portland, Cape Elizabeth, Scarborough, Kennebunkport, Yarmouth, Falmouth, Cumberland, Ogunquit, Maine

Salmon Falls Cabinetry

Warren

I understand what fester is saying too, but you really just need to get the wall right. I hate building the wall lower and setting a rafter on top. A waste of rafter and it can create the dreaded hinge effect too. Most of the time when I build my gable walls, I haven't cut any rafters yet so I can still adjust a little if need be. Most of the time when I figure my seat cut, I will often shorten the wall by 1/8". Seems like the 1/8" grows back in anyway. Most of the time I will leave the top plates connected temporarily, just to help keep the wall together during assembly/raising. Then again, I don't have a lift either. It can always be cut out later. Your gonna be right there when you put the ridge in anyway. I agree with the overhang methods as well. When they start getting bigger that a foot, and/or longer than a one piece fly, sometimes the braces and/or lookouts may be needed. I am sure these other veterans will attest to just "knowing" when that is needed. I have also messed up a few times over the years and made the gable wall too high or low. Not as much lately as changing one after the fact is no picnic and will cause you to double or triple check the next time. After spending so many years with no lift, I usually plan out the wall erection pretty well so that we can time it to occur when we will have a crane there anyway. I can remember building a very tall 2 story foyer wall on the second deck in order to be able to finish the 2nd floor deck without having it in the way. It was pretty easy to slide it over the edge, letting it lower itself to the first deck, then pushing the top up whild standing on that 2nd deck. Good use of physics and leverage if you ask me.