Gable Studs

knucklehead

I almost always notch mine. It makes the gable rafter stand straight up and takes less material and time . It can be insulated all the way to the sheeting.

galla35

The more I think about it it's not too much longer to notch them out just a few more seconds and leaves no need for bracing i don't know just my tought train.. Like said I love to see a good solid clean frame

hoferbuilder

Hi, I am new to this forum, but not so new to building... Judging from what I have read in this post I get the impression there is no way to mark stud placement on the top plate of a rake wall,(except with a laser plumb bob) is there?

bconley

What do you guy's use on the soffit?
I like to frame the gable 1.5 lower than the rafters and use t&g car decking for the soffit, run every 4th board back 2 bays for added stability.
It gives barge better stability also.
I don't like the rough sawn ply for soffit, and this is cleaner, more $ though.

ClemS

before they came out with laser levels people just about gave up on building things on an angle. it's true.

A W Smith

I don't notch them. I never did, I'm with Joe on this, Once its tied in with sheathing, there's no place for it to go. if you still feel its not secure enough, cap it with a 2X4 nailer. And it will also provide 1 1/2 inch of nailer in the event you want to sheetrock the underside of the rafters, Now how do I lay them out? I take a level and a stud long enough to be a king stud and cliimb up there and scribe every gable stud onto it, that's my pattern/layout stick I take it down to my chop saw and gather up all my stud scraps, and transfer from my layout stick. As i layout each gable stud onto my scrap or stock I put a hash mark through my angle mark on my layout stick so I dont accidentally cut one twice. For the last one? i cut the longest one from my pattern/layout stick itself. then i throw them up to my helper and say, "put em where they fit". works every time. And while im scribing my pattern/layout stick i put plumb marks on the rafters where they go. Its so simple a caveman can do it. I leave the second rafters out to provide room to work.

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A W Smith

how do you get all your other rafters to stand straight up? Or are you saying you save the ****tiest ones for your gable ends? How does it take less material by using gable studs that are longer than bevel cut gable studs by the depth of the rafter?. And save time by making three cuts instead of one? One of them being a rip?

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A W Smith

you can use a level or pull layout off an installed and plumbed king stud, or you can use a construction master calculator i suppose. I finally broke down and bought one.

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Timuhler

What we used to do back in the day (when I was still in high school) is we always had a post under the ridge that was layed out to center on the gable wall. The ridge naturally would be centered over that when the rafters were installed, so we pulled layout off that, since it was the tallest stud.

If the wall was really tall, we'd use a plumbbob. That didn't happen all that much since we mostly built 6-12 or 8-12 roofs.

All you need is a center post to be plumb then you can just pull from that. All we used to have is a 4' level.

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loneframer

I'm in the minority of those who notch their pins. I watched a few guys do the bevel cut and toe it to the bottom of the rafter. The problem I saw was that they would force a crown in the gable rafter as they worked up. I know this can be avoided with experience, but not every guy on my crew was experienced. I like to notch the pins and build a 2' center ladder for the fly rafter. Once sheathed, it's nearly impossible to force the fly out of plane with the roof. If it's cathedral, I drop another rafter in behind the pins. Once I have the measurement on the first pin, the rest are simple progressions, no need to measure more than one on each side of the ridge. Two sets of opposites if it's an identical gable on the other end. Just like Tim gang cuts rafters, I gang cut the 1.5" deep bevel cut, then use the edge of the shoe as a gauge for the rip. It takes very little time to cut a set of pins.

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Birch

My production method;

I butterfly layout from center, pre finger gable studs w/o pitch bevels, stack on horses staggering two each on pitch difference, gang cut at the square end. Fingered gable studs do not need to be tight on the notch, just nailed good, they’re 16” o.c. (slightly loose allows for adjustments). The sheathing goes up over the rafter and the pre built barge cornice assemblies sandwiches the sheathing and creates a very strong assembly.

The prebuilt barge assemblies are built straight and they straighten the gables when attached. The gable stud fingers can be quickly and accurately pre cut using references on the saw foot. (Holding the saw switch on until all the cuts are made saves switches.)

They go up quick and slick. Minimizes scaffold work.

PlumbBob^2Pants

Like Tim said, figure your stud placement off the center of the post under the ridge, but instead of using a plumb bob or laser you could figure stud placement with math ... the Pythagorean Theorem and proportions.

For example, let's say you've got a 12:12 pitch roof on your gable. By using the Pythagorean Theorem, or from the charts on your framing square, you know that the rafter length for 1 ft. of run on a 12:12 pitch roof is 16-31/32", so proportionally the rafter length for 16" of run on this same roof is 22-5/8". On the underside of your top plate, and at the end nearest the ridge line, just begin marking 22-5/8" intervals all the way down the length of the plate. But, since you're going to have a pocket in your gable for the ridge beam to rest in, be sure and subtract the proper amount for half the thickness of your ridge beam. For example, if you're using a 1-3/4" LVL for your ridge beam, then you'd make your first mark 22-5/8" less 1-1/4", and the rest of the marks would be 22-5/8" intervals off the first mark.

Or you could invest in a nice laser like the PLS90 and forget the math

stp57

Man, that is some pretty framing.
Steve

L@EConstruction

I always notch mine as well. I make a pattern of the notch and toss it in my apron. As Tim said I calculate the difference in length and cut in groups. Notching doesn't seem to take that much time. Guess it's all in how you're taught.

Joe Carola

There are a million ways to cut gable studs and a million ways to do the math. If everyone uses a straight gable rafter and your top plates are straight you can just figure your first gable stud out whether you start at the top or the bottom. Add the gable stud difference to the first stud and they are all cut to length ready to nail. It's the exact same thing as using the jack rafter difference on the framing square. Do that with the gable stud difference.

8/12 pitch using CM.

8/12 = .666667 x 16 = 10.66667" or 10-11/16" (Gable Stud Difference)

Or.

8 [Inch] [Pitch]

16 [Inch] [Run]

[Rise] = 10-11/16" (Gable Stud Difference)

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Joe Carola

PlumbBob^2Pants

Construction master makes it easy.

hoferbuilder

Not worried about the studs, but the top plate..

Timuhler

If you precut the studs, you don't need to mark the topplate on the rafter. You just nail them to the wall plate and then where they touch the topplate they are good.

I find on larger gables that the studs may not end up dead plumb because of the crown in the lumber. So I will take a new number ever 4th stud or so.

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Joe Carola

What do you mean the top plate? What are you worried about?

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Dave R

I got a question on using the construction master to figure a rake wall. Forgive my ignorance with using this calculator. When using the R/Wall function key, what is the "Base" entry refering to? I know it's probably simple but I am missing it for some reason.
Thanks