Fun With Wood X-bridging

jkfox624

Agreed just figuring if we're gonna blow loneframers date budget we might as well go all out for our entertainment.

jkfox624

My thought is if i got a load point that needs em use em. Im sure im not fully understanding your question though.

ClemS

manufacturer's not too clear on WHEN to use them. and then they tell you to cut the block 1/8" to 2-3/4" short. that's a broad range. i've always made them tight and always blocked all ends and mid bearings. seems a good practice being that the beams are made of junk. every little bit helps

loneframer

I think they are time consuming if nothing else. We've done a few floors with TJIs cantilevered. That detail is costly. Rimboard and full height hangers virtually eliminate the web stiffener requirement, although we still put them in some cases. Framing roofs with TJIs is another story of blown budgets.

__________________
__________________________________




"Walking the fine line between production and perfection"



__________________________________

ClemS

yea cantilever can be a bitch. i did a roof raise beginning of this year. the architect wanted me to cantilever 2'-7" feet off the back. i called him and told him to come by the job. said you can't hang these f'ing things out over two feet to carry roof. he disagreed and said they're plenty big to hang out further than that (9.5")........................ what do i know?

WarnerConstInc.

I got what you were getting at Lone.

Every house I work on has bridging. I also think it may have been a way to keep the old timber straight after it was framed and it dried out.

Guy's, it's the buddy system. Like taping two toes together when you break one.

__________________
Warner Remodeling ll Auburn Indiana Remodeling ll Dekalb County Remodeling ll Custom Woodworking Auburn Indiana
Warner Remodeling Facebook

loneframer

9.5s at 2'7"? Roof load? Did you get his signature?

__________________
__________________________________




"Walking the fine line between production and perfection"



__________________________________

ClemS

nope, framed it and ran. his name on the plans, not mine.

loneframer

I know I've never hung 'em out that far, that's crazy right there.

__________________
__________________________________




"Walking the fine line between production and perfection"



__________________________________

Gus Dering

Well I think some of you boys with big ideas about how to do this thing different should break out the junk and get er done.

Come on boys, back away from the key board and pony up. You know who you are. There should be at least 3 or 4 more experiments by my count.

Could be fun

__________________
Every parent who has walked barefoot into their child's room late at night hates Legos

TimelessQuality

no doubt maybe at 8" oc...

Hey lone, thanks for spending the time documenting and sharing

You've got me.. I'll add that detail next time I use dimensional..

One question.. do you staple the upper point, or just wedge it in?

Good stuff man!

__________________
-Steve

"The most beautiful thing we can experience is the mysterious. It is the source of all true art and science." ~ Albert Einstein

neolitic

Lone....Preacher.
Neo....Choir.

__________________
Put your location in your profile!
(Sorry....it seems there really are dumb questions)

Gus Dering

He went night night.

I'm certain he staples the top as he is sheathing and leaves the bottoms for a pickup item for the cleanup boy.

__________________
Every parent who has walked barefoot into their child's room late at night hates Legos

hughjazz

when an i joist intersects another i joist I install full height blocking (fill the webs) usually with 1" plywood . Or the rim joist (1 1/8") Glued and stapled
This imo is a good practise because it keeps the joist firmly in the hanger with no chance of roll over.

On any point loads. The squash blocks are cut 1/16" longer than the joist itself. And placed where appropriate.



I've never installed a mid span web stiffener. (never had the plans tell me to.)

KennMacMoragh

I think you should test this on your house, put some bridging in your crawl space then keep stacking weights in the center of your living room.

loneframer

Upper connection is stapled as well. During assembly of the floor sustem, I run out as much decking as possible, straightening the joists with the plywood. When I get to the bridging line, I simply strike a chalkline and staple in the bridging. On larger spans I like to run 2 rows 4' apart from eack other. As soon as the decking is complete, the botttoms get stapled in. By the time drywall goes in, the lumber has dried somewhat and typically shrinks at least 3/16 on a 2x10. It's amazing how stiff the floor feels underfoot. In 24 years of framing, I have never built a house using conventional lumber without some type of bridging. All builders require it as well as most municipalities. I have tried several types and after a couple hundred homes, I prefer this method over all others.

__________________
__________________________________




"Walking the fine line between production and perfection"



__________________________________

loneframer

I've tested wood bridging over the last 10 years in every home I've framed. I've tried metal straps, they always lead to squeeks in my experience, always the result of joist deflection. I've tried solid blocks, they sometimes lead to squeeks, usually due to cupping of the lumber and to some degree shrinkage. Drive in metal works well, but IMO is more labor intensive than wood, especially when additional joists are added under partitions. Now you're flip flopping back to wood to finish the project.
I know wood X works, my advice is for the nonbelievers to take a few hours on the next conventional framing job and try it for yourself. I have nothing to gain by railing for wood bridging. I am offering advice on good practice on a floor system. I have been called back for other types of bridging, sometimes it's not the bridging, it's gaspipe, water lines, joist panning or central vac lines, but it's always the result of joist deflection. I've not gotten the callbacks for squeeky floors using wood X.

__________________
__________________________________




"Walking the fine line between production and perfection"



__________________________________

ClemS

you can piecework my bridging any day. just come on up with your little staple gun

Timuhler

Lone,

I think its cool you are doing this. But for me, I'm sticking with the full floor testing that has been done and the data measured. If they say bridging doesn't add significantly, then that's enough for me.

Our engineer emailed me back with the following:

__________________
http://picasaweb.google.com/TimothyUhler
www.pioneerbuildersonline.com
https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/1...0542215/albums

loneframer

Let me know when you get that next big frame lined up, I'll try to work out a weekend if it works with your schedule. I'm itching to get on a woodframed project. I can still hang with you young whippersnappers.....I think.

__________________
__________________________________




"Walking the fine line between production and perfection"



__________________________________