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Old 10-31-2009, 11:37 PM   #21
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I agree with wallmax,

You've got to go through the floor if you want a stiff, independant wall.

For a slab I would drill through (longest roto hammer bit you can find) and epoxy full length threaded rod from well bellow the slab to the top of the wall. Put it through the top plates and then tighten down with a nut and washer. Alternatively, you could cut through, then dig out and pour new cement around angle iron that sisters a stud (same idea as a fence post).

For a wood frame floor I would simply extend 4x4's into the crawl and attach them to a new 12"x12" footing.

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Old 10-31-2009, 11:45 PM   #22
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Guys, he has a framed floor.

For concrete, I have used these and have worked extremely well:
http://www.us.hilti.com/holus/module...jsp?OID=-16192

PL Premium the base plate to the concrete and drive one of the anchor bolts between each stud.
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Old 10-31-2009, 11:45 PM   #23
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I think that is going to work best attached the 4x4 to the floor joist. I will update with the results. Thank you for all your input.

Ross
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Old 11-01-2009, 09:02 AM   #24
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Ceiling is 14" and shower wall is only 8', right? Besides the suggestions of anchoring into the joist framing below, run the top plate into the adjacent wall, screwed, glued, and with major blocking as well.. That will help keep the top of the wall from flexing with the weight of the door.
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Old 11-01-2009, 09:59 AM   #25
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What I do,and I can't really tell if it will work in your case. Is make that wall a half wall have the glass co.install a piece of glass to match the door with a metal frame on top from solid wall to solid to solid wall to keep everything rigid works great done it many times even in my own shower
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Old 11-01-2009, 10:11 AM   #26
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Just fall back to basic construction 101. - in any structure the sum of it's parts is sturdier then the individual components.


As long as you are tying this all together with the glass door it is going to be pretty solid.

By the time the CBU is installed and the tile that wall will be very sturdy.

If you want over kill, apply 3/4 plywood on both sides of the stud wall - think 'shear wall' technology.
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Old 11-02-2009, 08:35 PM   #27
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going through the floor is the best possible thing
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Old 11-03-2009, 07:21 PM   #28
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Smile

thanks for all the reply's. After running a 4x4 post through the sub floor and securing it there was still more play in the post that I would have liked. So I talked the client into taking the wall all the way to the ceiling. I just didn't want to take any chances and end up getting a call 4 months down the road. The wall is rock solid now. Thanks again and happy framing.

Ross
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Old 11-03-2009, 07:34 PM   #29
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Sorry to hear that. Unfortunately in my opinion you didn't serve your client well changing the design because you have a lack of construction experience.

We've done a million of those and they are rock solid when complete without taking them to the ceiling. Hopefully you'll get a chance to build something maybe more within your comfort zone sooner then later and understand how to do this without compromising design.

Building is a science - ever see concrete move like water?

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All this was was a shower wall.




6 & 7 foot wing walls solid as a rock.

Last edited by Mike Finley; 11-03-2009 at 07:37 PM.
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