Framing Of Gable Roof On Existing House.

loogout1

I'm new to the site and was hoping you guys could help me out a little. I have a old house(1946) that was originally a summer house back in the day. I'm slowly fixing it up, new windows, siding doors, etc. I'm now wanting to change my existing hip roof to a gable roof. I will be doing most of the work myself with the help of a friend of mine who is a carpenter, a young guy but very knowledgeable. I am a electrician so I know a little about construction, probably just enough to get myself into trouble. The house is approx. 45'X27', one story but with a basement. One long side of the house is approx. 15' to the top plate, the other side is approx. 8'(above grade). The building dept. told me that as long as the new rafters are tied into the ceiling joists and I use collar ties every 4' I'm good. Obviously I need the correct rafter size and such, but is he right? Are there any hidden snakes I should be worrying about? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
P.S. The house is in NY, about 40mi. north of the city.

osborn

Cant you overlay the gable onto the hip roof?

loogout1

Do you mean just continue the ridge out to the end of the house? The pitch is real low, plus they put a addition on the back some time ago, and added a second part to the existing roof, which is also hip like and would not center up with a ridge "common" to the rest of the house. A real abortion. So I figured a complete rip off would be the easiest.

K2

That sounds about right to me but i think i would let that part out to some area pros because they will be able to close it up faster than an electrician. If it is just for aesthetics it can be done as an overbuild. If you are looking to add living space, the whole thing should get the eyeball of an engineer or a very knowledgeable framer/carpenter. In my area I would need an engineer's stamp to do that.

loogout1

The existing roof is 2x4 with tongue and groove slats, knee wall supports in attic and sagging pretty good in certain spots.

osborn

So your tearing it all
off? Changing the pitch?

loogout1

The build. dept. told me that if its $20k and under, it doesnt have to be stamped by a arch. I have a guy who works for a arch. drawing up the plans for me.

loogout1

That was my plan.

osborn

Leave the CJs and brace the walls. to keep them straight.

loogout1

I was planning on leaving the cjs. Would the walls need to be braced if the cjs were left tied in to the plates

osborn

At least on one side. So both walls dont bow the same direction.

loogout1

There is a supporting wall that runs the center of the house that supports the cjs.Does this do any thing as far as bracing goes?

osborn

It helps. When framing, I brace every 6-8 feet.

loogout1

When you say brace, you mean run say a 2x4 from the top plate on a diag. down to the floor, correct?

osborn

yes. Are you keeping the walls plastered?

K2

I think you should go wire somebody's house and let some carps do your roof.

loogout1

Yeah, unfortunately the walls in the living room are freshly rocked, crown molding, paint, etc.

osborn

Yea. I agree. Barter.

loogout1

Yeah, I think you're probably right. I'm picking up the plans fri. Then I'm gonna see what the material cost is gonna be. I would love to just be able to pay someone to do it. I dont mind doing **** like this but....

loogout1

Any idea what the labor end of something like this would run?? I really have no clue what kind of #s to expect.