Framing Against Block Wall

JohnHomeMatters

When you frame an unfinished basement with block exterior walls, are you concerned with moisture from the block touching the wall studs? If so, do you use treated wood, a gap, or a vapor barrier? (already assumes treated for the bottom plate).

amanandhisvan

You can test the basement block wall and poured cement floor with a sheet of foil taped to the wall and to the floor. If condensation appears on the foil after a day or 2 then u have a moisture problem in the basement. I always staple a moisture barrier on the backside of my frame no matter what when I frame out basements. Just use a pressure treated bottom plate on the frame, thats all I have ever used with no problems.

genecarp

Assuming, normal conditions
1-acq bottom plate
2-thoroughseal or equal masonry sealent /paint
3-DF framing, leave gap, no fir contact with masonry
4-insulate, and rock

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neolitic

After addressing all of the moisture
problems.
I set the framing in 1"-1½" from
the masonry.
Treated sole plate only.

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KentWhitten

Well, the code will tell you 1" away(depending on which code you read that is) for all non treated wood. I would just get a treated piece and be done with it. Don't mess with non treated in the basement.

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Hope this helps. Now I'm going to leave and close the door behind me.

http://www.buildingscience.com/docum...lation-systems

TimNJ

I use treated plate and metal studs 1" of the walls.

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I'm thinking of the use of vapor barriers ? Plastic behind the frame wall, unfaced or faced insulation ? I've probably done them every which way over the years.

After reading the Building Science lit, looks like Styrofoam on the block wall, air space, metal studs and no insulation. I'm coming to the conclusion that batts in the wall cavity thermally don't do much except keep the dw at the heated temp instead of 55 deg underground temp.

JohnHomeMatters

Thanks to everyone for your responses. This forum is GREAT.

I also found the building science website helpful, if a little thick. I downloaded and saved the article on basement insulation.

Since some of the walls in question are already in place from prior construction, the local building inspector says he'll allow me to slip strips of building felt between the studs and the block.

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Here goes...Just trying to help the new guy....

http://forums.jlconline.com/forums/s...sement+framing

DavidC

Just researched this myself for a client, also went to BuildingScience.com (great website). they list 8 or 9 commonly used methods for finishing a basement and stated weather they approved or not. Only 2 methods ranked approval.

Foam board insulation applied directly to the block, sheetrock directly to the foam board, or

Wood framing with a 1" space between it and the block with kraft faced insulation and no sheetrock.

That was the only choices I offered to my client. FWIW, I would go with the first because I can't believe some future owner or contractor wouldn't see that frame and insulation and think the only thing left is drywall.

Good Luck
Dave

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Get this...when I was an apprentice I worked a basement job in a newly bought house. The walls were just as you said. The whole basement, walls and ceiling then sprayed with white paint. They threw a carpet down. It was a play room. Saved thousands.

orson

The method I prefer is to apply foam board insulation(a vapor barrier) against the block, then leave a 1" space to the framing and insulate the stud wall as well. Building Science's first method does not account for condensation on the inside of the vapor barrier and their second method obviously doesnt' apply to a "finished" basement.

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