Framing A 60 Ft Wide X 18 Ft High Wall

crno_gorac

Hi,

I need to build a partition in a commercial space. The wall will not be used for any shelving or carry any weight besides being drywalled with 1/2 sheetrock.

I was thinking of using 2x4's, putting anchors in the concrete floor and bolting down the bottom plates.

I was going to build six 10x10 walls and bolt them together to create a 60 x 10 foot wall. Then I was going to build 10x8 walls and place them on top of the 60 x 10 foot walls. I will bolt the top walls to the bottom walls in addtion to nailing.

This is in a commercials space. Is there anything I have to watch out for to make this structurally sound and within code. Building is in Chicago.

jmic

You'd be better off building 18' tall walls x 10' or how ever long you and the help can lift. Stacking walls like that will be very weak IMO. Also to make it worse for you I'd go with 2x6's.

__________________
___"Remember You Never Get A Second Chance To Make A First Impression"______________________
Joe

thom

I'd go with steel studs. You fasten the top and bottom tracks then insert the studs. Weight of the wall isn't an issue then.

I agree with jmic, no knuckle joint.

Tom M

I totally agree with Thom. As for building codes in commercial space. YOU NEED TO what the space your separating is being used for. You may need to have special prescriptive fire rating for finishes and penetrations. The wall may also need to extend all the way to the roof deck and fill and space if it butts to a corregated ceiling .

KentWhitten

yep, no cutting studs in the middle. and an 18' 2x4....hmmm, not very good IMO. I'd go with at least 2x6. Something like this, metal studs would be a good choice too. I'd put the bottom plate down, figure where the top plate goes and nail it in place, get 2 guys, one on a rolling scaffold, the other cutting and nailing bottom. Or 3 guys total even. It'd go quick.

__________________
If you correct your mind, the rest of your life will fall into place ~Lao Tzu

Custom Cabinetry - Portland, Cape Elizabeth, Scarborough, Kennebunkport, Yarmouth, Falmouth, Cumberland, Ogunquit, Maine

Salmon Falls Cabinetry

osborn

I agree with framerman. You dont wont the "hinge factor" by having walls stacked on top of each other. Since itsw commercial I think steel studs are the right way to go.

troubleseeker

Definately do not stack walls. You are just creating a "hinge" and there will always be a problem there.
Also, check ahead on what is required of the wall for inspections as suggested. If it is separating two independent "store fronts" it will have to be a firewall, and will be required to entend completely to the roof deck, where it will have to be sealed with firestopping sealant.
Anything this tall is a perfect candidate for metal studs, be sure to use a heavy gauge, even if someone recommends flimsy drywall weight materials as being sufficient. They will flex so bad, and the entite wall will vibrate like a drum.

mickeyco

I agree with the heavier gauge metal studs, anyone know what a 18' - 2 x 4 stud costs? I know they make them, one wall on my house, which is only a few years old, is balloon framed and it's about 18' to 20' tall. If you're trying to do it on the cheap you could build 8' and 10' foot walls, stagger them and carriage bolt the over hang together to get rid of the hinge.

__________________
Some people climb mountains. I take out the trash. But we both do it for the same reason.

ecooke21

how did you do that? what program is that?

__________________
A bunch of little rabbit turds banding together usually just makes one bigger piece of crap. -Mike Finley

Cole

Looks like photoshop, but you could have done it in 3d using sketchup.

__________________
Tulsa's Leader in Outdoor Living Construction | Facebook | Tulsa Pergola Builder | Tulsa Outdoor Kitchens

mickeyco

I used PhotoShop and a picture of a pine board, it's not to scale or anything, just for illustrative purposes, faster to draw it than explain it.

__________________
Some people climb mountains. I take out the trash. But we both do it for the same reason.

KentWhitten

yah, I was gonna say, can I have some of that material? Way better than what we get. 2 knots per board, yowsa!

__________________
If you correct your mind, the rest of your life will fall into place ~Lao Tzu

Custom Cabinetry - Portland, Cape Elizabeth, Scarborough, Kennebunkport, Yarmouth, Falmouth, Cumberland, Ogunquit, Maine

Salmon Falls Cabinetry

troubleseeker

The only studs that length (18') that I could imagine being worth using would be one of the engineered products , and they are a long way from cheap. I am pretty sure that your suggested way will still be more expensive than metal. Even the heavier material is not very expensive, and once the tracks are set up, two men, one at top and bottom can cover territory quite fast standing full length studs in place.And there will be no comparison between the flatness of the wood and metal walls. Neat sketch, I really do need to ungrade my computer talents, seeing some of the stuff that guys post makes me feel pretty embarrassed at my skills.

72chevy4x4

it may be better to stagger the jointed studs-i.e. if using 10's, make one 10' and 8', then alternate 8' and 10'-you'll likely need fireblocks at the 10' mark (double check). call the building inspector first and get his take on this, if you haven't done it already. you may need a building permit since it's commercial space and making mini-walls may not fly. if these are partitions then additional fireblockrequirements may be necessary. 5/8" firecode wallboard at the least-doublewalls may be necessary or even OSB layered w/ two layers firecode wallboard.
good luck

Joe Carola

I'm having trouble as to why it's so hard to frame an 18' high wall whether you use 2x4's or 2x6's. I can't even comprehend why anyone would split this wall between 10' and 8' walls. This makes no sense at all to do this.

__________________
Joe Carola

72chevy4x4

I passed a new service center under construction-it used very long metal studs for the outer walls-so I'm sure they make them in the length you need. Seems the conversation tended to making partial walls from the initial post. With my limited experience in metal studs, I haven't found longer then 10' studs...but then again I didn't look.

mickeyco

To lower the cost and eliminate the "hinge". Studs to build 8'
and 10' walls are considerably cheaper than full-length studs.
I know they make 18' metal studs but I don't know the price,
the last time I used metal studs they weren't much cheaper if
at all, plus he might have a hard time finding 18 foot metal studs,
I don't think they're a stock item at to many places.

__________________
Some people climb mountains. I take out the trash. But we both do it for the same reason.

72chevy4x4

how long did it take you to make that mickyco?

jmic

Stacking the walls as in your other post you are using twice the amount of materials for plates and then you are showing doubling the studs where the sections meet plus bolting them together. I don't see any savings for materials and extra labor over using materials weather wood or steel studs to go the 18' without stacking.

__________________
___"Remember You Never Get A Second Chance To Make A First Impression"______________________
Joe

Joe Carola

Mickeyco,

There's no way that building 8' and 10' walls is cheaper whether you use metal or would. Your using more material and twice the amount of labor. I can buy 18' 2x4's and 2x6's any day at a lumberyard. 18' 2x4's might take a day or two if they're not in stock, 2x6's always stock item.

__________________
Joe Carola