Efficient Framing

jkfox624

www.choice-air.com/energy_efficiency.php is a california corner pick. We started using them when we had to go to 2x6 walls when corners became alot more difficult. I'm thinking pars is short for partitions?

loneframer

Why are camels called "Ships of the desert"?

'Nuff said.

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Timuhler

Well, so much for the guidelines in the op eh?

I personally am in favor of many of the principles of OVE, but it isn't going to work here quite yet due to the seismic activity.

Washington state also has strict energy codes, so a lot of the energy details like sheathing the house in foam doesn't calc out. But stacking loads, and minimizing the amount of wood in the wall. Eliminating headers by using strong enough rim, etc etc are all no brainers if it can be made to work well.

If we had say 4 plans that we were going to build many times over, I'd go this route. And I really don't think it would end up in a less "bomb proof" house.

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naptown CR

don't forget to block all bearing walls at the mid point.

KennMacMoragh

I don't understand why that framing technique hasn't been put into practice yet, I've never seen anyone do it. There was another thread on this here http://www.contractortalk.com/f91/gr...-course-47739/ I posted a picture of a green framing mock-up at a trade show I went to.

As a framer you basically have to look at the prints and do what you're told. But I don't understand why builders don't look into this more, it was all engineered 35 years ago, and it's allowed in the building code. It's just got to be designed that way and implemented.

neolitic

Back in my first energy crisis, in the 70's
I experimented with the ladder leads.
No one liked them.
Some guys left all interior walls ¾" off
the perimeter walls and shoved the drywall
behind, used clips or "floating corners"
where ther would have been traditional
3 member built up corners.
These sucked for base and chair, and
often split or cracked.
Eventually I thought I invented the
California corner.
I have even used 1X6 for these with no
apparent problems.
As far as leads, a flat 2X6 or 2X8 is the
most reasonable compromise solution for me.
No jack studs looks like another trim nightmare
unless one was happy with drywall jambs
and no casing, and I wonder about any
R value saving with those big chunks of metal
in the corners?
I can't bring myself to think about gluing
all the trim.

Waiting to hear more from the real
experts now.

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naptown CR

No jack studs are fine as long as the casing is not wider than 2 1/2" and you are nailing the inside edge to a window or door frame.( Assuming a 3/4 jamb on the window, 1/4" space for rough opening, 1 1/2" stud and an 1/8 reveal the trim would only overhang the stud by 1/8 inch)
A flat 2x6 of 1x6 would work behind a double stud on an intersecting partition wall and eliminate the base/ chair issue.
Running the base /chair with the exterior piece installed first and the partition wall coped to it will eliminate the nailing issue as one piece will capture the other and you always have a bottom plate to prevent pushing too far.

neolitic

Just kind of hard to see through
the drywall if you didn't frame it......
or if you slept since then.

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naptown CR

I'm kind of making an assumption that all the corners on partitions were done that way. You would have to know in advance how they were framed. This would be easier if everyone framed the same way or a convention was established.
Of course geting two people to do thngs the same way is next to impossible. I can't imagine getting everyone to do things the same way.
Wait I know
Just make it a code