Efficent Framing.

Originally Posted by framerman

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Where do you keep them.....in your belt? 40' in the air? It's a great idea, but they are more of a hassle come truss day IMO!

Originally Posted by Willie T

Make life easy for your saw man, your ground man who nails the initial braces on, and your truss setters... all at once.

All the saw man has to do is whack up braces about 28-30 inches long. Scraps any length around there will do. Just so long as they are of a length to span one truss to the next.

All the ground man has to do is put one nail in close to one end of the brace. No measuring really necessary.

Give each setting man an accurately cut gauge piece. He hooks the arriving truss to the previously set truss with the gauge, close to where the brace is nailed. He then pivots the brace (or braces) waiting on the previously set truss up over top of the newly arrived truss, and fires away with the nail gun. No measuring nor aligning brace ends or marks necessary.

An additional benefit to this method is that the braces fly up pivoted down (or "up", your choice) along the top chord of the truss, and are not likely to strike anything nor get knocked loose.

The gauge keeps everything accurate... AND it is left in place hanging on the "just set" pair while the next truss is on its way up. (Just a little added security) All your setting man does is slip it up off that pair, and hook the next set. All ready to nail again.

No one, anywhere, has to measure anything nor line up anything. It is super simple to just hook the gauge on.

One hazard to the braces fitting in between trusses, as the second poster here suggests, is that there is VERY LITTLE of the nail points penetrating either end grain of the brace. (a very POOR area to hope will hold a nail) Let your set man trip once and shift even half of his weight against the latest truss set, and he and that truss are likely to come down QUICK. All bracing nails should be in "shear"... never so they can slide right out of a side stressed truss... and never just into end grain.
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And just as a side note. You get caught ignoring that pink bracing sheet around here when setting trusses, and your butt could find itself in a BIG sling real quick. The local Big Brother frowns severely on that.

Originally Posted by framerman

We use these

Originally Posted by framerman

We use these

Originally Posted by Warren

$11.50 for a box of 50. Seems like too much

Originally Posted by Warren

$11.50 for a box of 50. Seems like too much

Originally Posted by Warren

We use most of those precuts for permanent truss bracing. I dont think I have ever thrown a precut in the dumpster. You can also cut them into blocks for soffits and such. You can turn a precut into blocks, but you can't turn blocks into precuts.

Originally Posted by framerman

Can't you find some money for a saw stand?

Originally Posted by tomstruble

nice to see you have a ''helper'' to sweep up

Originally Posted by loneframer

I have used the folding spacers for setting trusses. They are not intended for structural bracing, but work well to get them up and running. I have used them on stick framed roofs to set layout on long rafters to eliminate pulling layouts while sheathing. If layout starts to creap, you can easily hack one loose to get your butts to break.
They are much more reasonable cost wise and there is no removal, just sheath over them.

Originally Posted by mccarty.74

Loneframer, please expand on the fire-rating if you could. Did I misunderstand, or do you guys have to double sheath your decks?