Cutting Floor Joists Flush To A Wall- Preferred Tool?

Dustball

I'm going to be working on a basement remodel where I will have to rebuild the stairs and cut the floor joists to provide adequate headroom. The floor joists are perpendicular to the stairs so I will need to cut a doubled 2x10 joist flush to the stairwell walls. The tools I have are the standard tools- reciprocating saw, 7-1/4" circular saw and a chainsaw. What do you use in this situation? The reason I included chainsaw was because that would allow me to cut the joist from underneath where I have clearance to cut flush. Reciprocating saw would be difficult due to the height of the joist and the long blade needed.

jmic

Well I suppose an electric chainsaw would work well in this circumstance. I don't think the owner would appreciate a house full of smoke though.

__________________
___"Remember You Never Get A Second Chance To Make A First Impression"______________________
Joe

RobertCDF

With a nice brand new wood blade (or pruning blade) and if you take your time to make sure your cutting straight you can get a perfect cut out of a sawzall. I would cut as much as possible with the circ though just because its faster and is dead straight. Then finish with the sawzall.

__________________
Robert Shaw
Colorado Springs Custom Decks
Colorado Custom Decks
Custom Composite Decks

Bone Saw

jig saw mabey, with agressor blade set to max orbit

__________________
Custom Decks & Carpentry LLC.
Chester County Custom Decks
Custom Deckbuilder Mainline
Philadelphia Deck Builder
Custom Decks & Carpentry on Facebook

Joe Carola

Dustball,

I do this stuff all the time. Don't even consider using a chainsaw. It's dangerous and not worth any time you think that you will save. Think about it, how often do you use a chainsaw? Do you use one every day, and can you carve animals with it? We all use circular saws and sawzalls every day and can control them like there's no tomorrow. I can carve animals with mine

Seriously, use the circular saw first as high up as you can go, and then continue with a sawzall with a good 12" blade, those are the best in this situation for me anyway. It nice and safe also. Once you get to the top of the joists where it hits the bottom of the sub-floor, just slow down a little. Sometimes the blade might bind up and kick back on you, but you'll get the feel. It's a lot better than a chainsaw kicking back on you.

Some situations I can access it from upstairs because I can cut the sub-floor back enough so that I can snap the line on my joists and square the lines up and just cut straight down from the top in one shot with the circular saw.

__________________
Joe Carola

Heritage

Circular

I recently took out a butt-load of floor joists on a remodel job (40-50).

Ease it down, careful of the kickback. Once you get a good feel for it you know exactly when the saw wants to jamb.

I take it all the way down...slow down...keep going to the "KICKING" point. Stop. One or two swings of my hammer is enough to finish the cut (no sawzall needed).

But be safe and use the sawzall.

__________________
Toronto General Contractor-Renovation Blog-Contractor on Facebook-Renovation on twitter-Contractor Youtube

wallmaxx

I agree with Robert and Joe.

I draw plumb lines up from a popped line that I place where the inside of my new beam is going. Cut up as far as possible with a circ saw. Finish with a stiff blade on a recip saw. In the pix, I had to cut out everything above the platform and to the right. The only thing about remodels I find id that sometimes you "eyeball" things more than you use a level. Depends on the structure and how it has settled.

Fein also makes a tool called the Multimaster...it has a zero clearance ability, but it would be a pain to cut a long straight line.

Good luck to you.

Dustball

Thanks for the comments. I like to think things out before doing them and cutting the joists cleanly and flush has me puzzled a bit due to clearances. I forgot to mention there is another joist 5.25" behind the doubled joist I need to cut so I can't get a circular saw on the back side (opposite of the wall) to cut up vertically to the subfloor. I think I'm going to go with the sawzall and a 12" Milwaukee AX blade and cut through the long face of the joist.

troubleseeker

I say cut what you can with a circular saw, then finish with reciprocating saw with one of the thick, stiff, demolition blades in it.

Don't seem like a place to learn how to handle a chain saw, not to mention what kind of images of the quality of your work the sight of a chain saw will plant in the HO mind.

SelfContract

Yes, who is the guy starred in "Friday the 13th" chasing people with that ? Jason right?

Also, da "Texas Chainsaw Massacre" ...

Dustball

I'll just say I'm using my artistic expression Nah, I'll do what I can with the circular and finish off with the recip.

hack and slash

good framers never use a chainsaw 'REALLY' good framers use chainsaws lots

Patrick

I know a framer that was doing an addition, and went to cut out the door opening between the addition and the existing house with a chain saw. He was standing on the new addition side of the wall. After a few seconds of cutting the HO started grabbing him yelling. Turns out there was a china cabinet on the other side of the wall and his saw was going right though it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

HallisseyDesign

Hey if you have not got it yet you can buy the beam saw attachment for your circular saw and that will do it too. Do support the beam so you don't get a umm I hear some weird noises umm move situations.

Dustball

I should be getting around to framing a load bearing wall to support the floor joists later this week. Here's a couple of pics to show what I'm up against. It's just a matter of having patience with using a recip saw and a long blade.

Attached Thumbnails

   

Dustball

Interesting...

http://www.praziusa.com/beamcutter.html

HallisseyDesign

That is the one i have and it is on an older skill saw a i have. A worm drive I believe. does wonders!

Dustball

Too bad it won't work with the Makita Hypoid saw I have. I can see that being very handy for cutting stair stringers, clamp three together and cut them all at once.

HallisseyDesign

If you do anything with building decks they work extremely well there too. I go over kill on my decks i build. I always use 6x6 posts to hold the damn thing up. I am a fan of over kill and things not moving or falling!

Dustball

I agree- yes it costs a little extra in materials but it provides you with an extra peace of mind.