Attaching Wood Studs To Metal Studs

AlSmith

Hey Guys,
Does anyone have a suggestion of how to attach wood studs to existing metal studs? The existing metal studs are on the exterior wall of a commercial building and are already drywalled in. I need to build a simple partition office in one corner of the building, and I am looking to attach the new wood stud wall to the metal studs for support, as there is a drop ceiling with no support for the top plate.

Thanks

WarriorWithWood

Why don't you use metal studs and use the ceiling grid to attach the top plate to? Then drywall and spackle the top with some zip strip. Welcome to CT.

__________________
-Dennis
www.bowmanch.com

crimsondot

I agree, use metal studs and screw the top plate to the ceiling grid, but quicker and easier is to install wall angle at the top corner between the ceiling grid and the top of the sheetrock. It looks nice and you can lift the existing ceiling tiles and screw it down to the top plate. Have done it on commercial jobs and it always passes COE inspection.

B.K

As VP of Assholeism in the Northern Hemisphere, i concure.

Use medal studs.



OR DIE!!!!!!


Seriously, use them, OR ELSE!!!!


-Bill

TBFGhost

flooring? I take it this a side job?

AlSmith

Yeah, flooring is my main job but I was talked into doing a freebie for my brother-in-law. I have framed several basements on the side, but always with wood. Is attaching the wood stud to the existing metal stud not possible? I hate to have to go out and learn/buy more equipment for a job with no pay. One wall will have to support a heavily used door, so I have concerns with using metal. (And concerns with my skill level with using metal). There is also no ceiling grid (only the tiles) near where the wall will be located, so I cannot attach the top plate to the ceiling grid.

Also, can you use a powder actuated nail gun through the bottom plate and through indoor/outdoor carpet, or should I remove the carpet prior to securing the bottom plate?

Thanks for your help.

ClemS

if you must go through wood into metal you'll be using long fine thread drywall screws or self-tappers, depending on how heavy the steel is.

try to avoid using green stock for this type of application - get some kiln dried studs.

if possible, use construction adhesive - such as PL urethane.

as far as shooting through the carpeting goes, I'd recommend slicing it for the shoe.

Chris Johnson

You are getting in over your head.

Tell your brother in law you need him to perform an oil change and tune up on your vehicle, when he tells you he is not a mechanic and go to a garage, smile and say your right, call a commercial contractor to build your damn wall.

__________________
Chris

B.K

Being serious now,

Take Chris Johnson advice.

If you are going to go through with this, doors, pocket door, openings anything for that matter, will hold up great with metal petitions. Only if you build it correctly.

With a dropped ceiling, build the petions a few inches above the ceiling, and use a metal brace from the ceiling joist to the wall, do that every corner and center of the wall .

Corners shouldn't be framed up like you would with wood, although you can get away with it. To make sure you have a soild corner with metal studs, you should put a 1/2" space (assuming your using 1/2" drywall), between the 2 corners. Than slide in your piece of drywall, this is strengthen the corner, so it will no move or crack after its crack-filled.

For the doors, just frame like you normally would, and with the bracing on the top and in the corners, you can slam that door all day long and the wall will hold up just like a wood wall will.

Also, no need for air nailers or hammers, just tin snips, kelly screws, drills, and fine threaded drywall screws will probably be all the tools needed to make those medal studs do whatever you want.


-Bill

Blackcloud

metal is the only way to fly. well unless its a load bearing wall.. then its a pita

KennMacMoragh

If it's a commercial building with metal studs already, then you need to make sure wood is even allowed in that building. Unless you're doing it without a permit and don't care. I'd say odds are, wood isn't allowed. You need to figure out what occupancy type the building is, then use that to determine how it needs to be framed.

But if you're going to use wood, I think any sort of long screw will work. I don't think it will be very strong going from wood to metal. But if you're talking about attaching the end stud of a partition wall to another wall, that connection doesn't have to be very strong anyway. Some guys just let that end stud float, and not even attach it with anything. Most important part is attaching your walls to the floor and ceiling securely.

AlSmith

Thank you pros for helping out an old man learn a new trick.


Another question:
When attaching the end stud of the new wall to the existing stud, would you remove a 3.5" vertical slice of the existing drywall to attach the studs, or would you just screw through the end stud, through the drywall, then into the existing stud?


Thanks again

Blackcloud

I took a picture in my basement to explain how i do it.

lets pretend that the vapor barrier is your existing walls sheetrock. the last stud in the "sheetrocked" wall is one i added, then id add the one right next to it to attach my new sheet of rock. then you just continue framing using standard layout

KennMacMoragh

Nope, you don't need to. I've done plenty of remodels by just placing the stud on the drywall and nailing right through it and into the existing stud, plenty strong.