TurnkeyConst

Hey guys well I appreciate all the help on the other framing post that I have. I am currently working on a job and we are debating stick framing a roof or buying trusses. The debate is over how to stick frame it and still provide the support to keep from pushing out the walls. No problem with trusses but they want a ton to give me a custom ridge height to match existing roof since it is like a 6.75 on 12 and their computers wont except the input. So I can stick frame it in a little more time but get the result that I want without the extra cost but I dont know how to incorporate the colar ties. I am going to attach a pic of the truss. The pitch is different since this is just an example of what the truss would look like. Would I build the same way as trusses just with wooden gussets or an entirely different way? Thanks guys

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framerman

you'd need either a ridge beam or collar ties to do this. That low of a pitch, I'd go with the ridge beam. I personally have never liked scissor trusses.

BTW, truss companies can give you anything. I've never heard of balking at a custom height. Maybe the inside pitch, but not outside.

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TurnkeyConst

thats what I was figuring a 2x8 ridge beam 2x6 rafters and then 2x4s to build the ceiling with and attach to rafters with 2x4's. I have heard others talk about not liking the scissor trusses. of course this would be our first time using a scissor truss. we dont have any problem out of standard attic trusses except warping. I just need to find out the correct way to build a vaulted ceiling and still have enough support like you would have from colar ties. thanks

framerman

woah...how long would this ridge beam be? I don't think that's gonna cut it, no pun intended. I'm talking BEAM...micorloam, parallam, glulam...

It's holding up half of the roof. I'm prettty sure you have not much roof loading necessary down there, but I can't see just a 2x8 ridge for this.

With collar ties, you look decent, but not positive without running it by an engineer.

That'd have to be about a 6' span between supports to be realistic. I forgot to mention the (I hope) obvious that you would need to get some engineering for this. Your lumber yard should be able to do it and if not, a structural engineer would give it to one of their interns since it's not bad.

Maybe even an architect wouldn't mind.

The longer that ridge is between supports, the bigger it gets. 12' span, look for something in the ballpark of a 3½ x 12.

Collar ties pretty much defeat the purpose of a vaulted ceiling in the description you got there. Only 1/3rd the height you will gain.

Scissor trusses may just be cheaper depending on how long that ridge span is going to be.

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"When you correct your mind, the rest of your life will fall into place." ~Lao Tzu

Custom Cabinetry and Woodworking- Portland, Cape Elizabeth, Scarborough, Kennebunkport, Yarmouth, Falmouth, Cumberland, Ogunquit, Maine

Whitten Custom Carpentry

FRAMERBEN

Definately a double lvl for the vault ridge. Size will be determined by the span(ask your engineer). Not only is it supporting the vault itself, but it will be supporting the second set of rafters making the external roof. The ridge for that only needs to be whatever the plum cut is of the rafter.

Joe Carola

Scissor trusses suck. The ceiling is way to low. If you want a full cathedral ceiling then go with a structural ridge and forget any collar/cross ties or whatever people want to call them because everyone has a different name.

If you don't want a structural ridge, then go with a regular ridge and have your collar ties designed at a specific height so that the walls wont push out. We call this a clipped ceiling and it's framed like this every day.

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TurnkeyConst

The rafters on the 12x16 addition would be framed 16" oc and the ridge would be 16' long over new construction then go about 15' to tie into existing roof all framed out 16" oc with the ceiling attached.

***oops would lvl's work? I can check with our local structural products.

Joe Carola

Will lvl's for for what, a structural ridge? If so, yes, they always work.

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wallmaxx

I am a bit on the over kill side.

a. What are your insulation requirements?
b. Convection ventilation?
c. I'm with Framerman...structural ridge for sure...then very high collar ties (wind ties in some regions)

here's my 2 cents

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TurnkeyConst

Hey thanks for the drawing. didnt realize there was this much to framing vaulted ceilings. The r-value for ceilings is r-30 already knew that it would be stapled in batts. Im not sure what convection ventilation is but I will research it to find out. I understand now why you need a structural ridge but at first did not. Should there be mechanical conncections for the rafters to beam besides toe-nailing? I will consult an engineer on the roof for safety sake before we start framing the roof. Thanks guys

TurnkeyConst

one more question, I understand the framing of the vault with 2x12 could I frame the roof with the ceiling built a 1' or so under it out of 2x4's? I will try to get a drawing of kinda what I am thinking for you guys to review. thanks

neolitic

Why make it more complex than it has to be?
Dry wall the under side of the 2X12's.
2X4's aren't rigid enough, would need to be strapped/supported
from the rafters anyway.
You're trying to create a whores nightmare
from a simple thing.
Maybe you should work with someone who's
not so green?

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neolitic

Yes, hangers!

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woodmagman

Here is a tiny addition that required only a 2x12 ridge board.

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Patrick

Oh man look what you did, your about to drum up the "is it ok to install tyvek upside down" debate, get ready

neolitic

'S okay the water up there can't read english anyway

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wallmaxx

I worked for a guy and his brother in TN back in 2003. His brother went BALLISTIC over one section of tyvek that we put up upside down.

He said it made us look st-st-stupid.

Some people spend all day looking for little things to complain about.

Be nice.

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Patrick

my guys think im ocd cause i insist that the fanfold foam be right side up

BuiltByMAC

Nothing wrong with a little OCD if it makes you more efficient! If you just get in the habit of doing something a certain way, your body will follow, faster and with minimized actions.

Wallmax, I appreciate the picture... That is cool as hell you're willing to work up drawings for these threads. Some of us are more visual and appreciate the drawn ideas.

Question for you guys who hand frame roofs, The ridge beam... where it's supported on either end... can those ends be supported with just built up 2x wall studs? Have you run into a situation where your posts stuck out farther than the wall stud depth? Do you fur out the wall or box out the post?

Mac

reveivl

Before you even go here you have to know the difference between a ridge board and a ridge beam. One bears load and the other doesn't. Which is which?

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