What Kind Of Wood?

Knighton

I'm fabricating a bed rail for a twin bunk bed and I wanted to know if anyone had any suggestions as to what wood would work best?

The bed is cheap quality, made out of pine and the rail splintered when the customer sat on it. It was temporarily fixed, but as you can see, it needs replaced. I thought about adding some sort of angle iron styled metal to the new rail for additional support for the ribs, but I'd rather just get a real strong wood and avoid having to reinforce it.

The manufacturer no longer makes this model either, so a replacement isn't available.

Any thoughts?

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TBFGhost

I just made a bed out of Red Oak, it is queen sized and the rails are 1" oak.

I know Maple is a very damn hard wood and easy to get, hell the local home centers around here stock it S4S.

I think if you replace that part with a good quality hardwood you won't need to put in any metal... and it looks to me like you could increase the depth and width if you wanted. Are you replacing both side? Even if the other side is not damaged i would, by the looks of the one you posted the side that didn't break is just a time bomb.

Knighton

What I forgot to mention is that a total of three rails have been broken over time. Two were replaced with parts from the manufacturer. This 3rd one broke after the bed was discontinued. (Wonder why they decided to discontinue it?)

Thanks.

TBFGhost

...lol, replace all four then with a good hard wood.

KMac

make sure your gen. liability is paid up too! I wouldn't want to repair a failing bunkbed!

TBFGhost

That is was insurance is for...

D.Foster

Wow, that pretty narrow for a bed rail, and dowels? I would sell them on bed rail hardware from Rockler or something.
As for the wood,..if it has to be that narrow could you get away with using some 5/4?? Poplar @ 5/4 should work well, or as stated, Maple. Just a shame to paint a nice hardwood

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Do what you would do, as if i won't Do anything after you Did It!

Knighton

Well, there's two bed bolts in each end, so the strength at the headboard isn't a problem. I think the 5/4 or bigger would work if i replace all of them, but it's not my decision or money, so I need it to match the one up as close as possible. It's already going to look different as I don't think i'll be able to get that super glossy sheen like it has now? By the way, it's marked "made in Vietnam"

D.Foster

Wow.. That puppy is a long way from home!!

__________________
Do what you would do, as if i won't Do anything after you Did It!

TBFGhost

To get that super gloss, treat it like a car. I would use a hardwood, Maple if you are going to stick with 3/4", It is hard and smooth with tight grain. Sand that puppy down to 220 grit, now prime it with a high build primer, hell even an automobile primer would be great here. Let that dry and sand that down to 600 grit or better. Spray it with a high gloss paint. You can prob get away with spray bomb paint, but I would make sure to let it air dry for AT LEAST 2 or 3 days before bringing it to be installed, the longer the better. Spray bomb single stage enamel will get hard, it just a long time, I think the real cure time on those is somewhere in the months range.

If you have the ability, I would spray it with a 2 part hi build primer surfacer ment for cars, wet sand it down to 800 grit, then put on a base coat and then two coats of clear....of course that MAY start to get out of hand for a bed frame made in Vietnam....lol...but it would be nice...

I used to work for a body shop, and going from that to house paint was hard....I HATE BRUSH/ROLLER MARKS and I hate when paint starts to build up and cover up the details in the trim work....but such is the nature of the beast.