I have found that if you drill countersinks for trimhead screws (even though people say you don't need to), that the driver bits last much longer, especially in hardwoods.
I use GRK screws and have found the a Unibit (stepped drill bit) is a great for drilling coutersinks (perfect size and geometry). The step next to the screw head in the pic works for the T-10 screws and the next step up works for the T-15 screws.
I use an 1/8" bit for the pilot, the Unibit for countersink, and then use the impact driver to run the screws in.
I use trimheads to join cabinet faceframes together (and lots of other stuff).
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hey Bass, is it just me or is the makita gun on the left shorter than the one on the right..?
just currious i have the same set and the drill is hard to use on cabinet work because it so long..the impacts are perfect im taking about the drills..?
hey Bass, is it just me or is the makita gun on the left shorter than the one on the right..?
just currious i have the same set and the drill is hard to use on cabinet work because it so long..the impacts are perfect im taking about the drills..?
I do have two different drills and one is shorter, lighter, and is just 2-speed. (I bought a second kit to get another drill & charger and additional batteries).
If the shorter drill is still too long, this right angle attachment gets in really tight spots:
i normally just use a #6 countersink bit with a tapered pilot hole bit in it. they have a hex shank which my impact driver will accept
just avoid the mibro brand bits, i was checking out what sears had in their tool section one day and saw they had a 4 pack of the different sizes, they were only 14.99 as opposed to 32.99 which hd charges for the wolfcraft set.
regardless after 3 holes in mdf the mibro broke all to hell and im back to the wolfcrafts
i have the makita lxt right angle impact, the reason i asked i thought the only lxt blue kind was a hammer drill too..but now i see the 2 speed and me like. time to browse
Hey Basswood, I've been using a bunch of different Torx head screws, I havn't seen them in a typical trimhead size though. I will say that in other apps. they perform much better than square drives or phillips. Have you used them? Anybody? Have you seen them in trimheads?
Hey Basswood, I've been using a bunch of different Torx head screws, I havn't seen them in a typical trimhead size though. I will say that in other apps. they perform much better than square drives or phillips. Have you used them? Anybody? Have you seen them in trimheads?
There are star drive trim head screws readily available.
T-10 bits have a shorter life than the larger torx bits... really short for some knuckleheads... there is a learning curve. Some guys will snap several bits in a day, but mine last for weeks... Hmmmm.
I do think the GRK bits last longer. I like it that they are color coded too. Makes it easy to see at a glance which bit is a T-10 (gold) or a T-15 (red).
Might not make sense, but the T-10 bits last longer in an impact driver than in a standard drill/driver too.
IMO the torx and square drive trim head screws are far superior, torx the better of the two. Always had problems with the phillips head ones stripping out.
Depending on the material I've found countersinking very useful, especially if you might need to back the screw out/ reposition.
IMO the torx and square drive trim head screws are far superior, torx the better of the two. Always had problems with the phillips head ones stripping out.
Depending on the material I've found countersinking very useful, especially if you might need to back the screw out/ reposition.
Yup, we drive a ton of stainless screws, and they are usually a one shot deal, we use them alot with the hidden festener decking systems, and the treated SYP is tough on them. Next time I'll try the torx heads.
Location: Beech Grove, Indiana, Birthplace of the "King of Cool"
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I've used the step bits in a pinch,
but mostly in the other direction..
#12 & #14 +.
I have some Vermont American pilot bits
and they are stepped up from bit to
shank to head.
If i stop at the shank part its just right
for trim heads.
On cabinet rails I go back with a longer
twist bit to finish the deeper pilot.
(Need to get this pic sizing thing down)
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Same set I have. Not impressed with their sharpness. I'll have to get off my lazy but and resharpen them like I do with all my cheap tools. Then they will work better.
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Measure Twice Cut Once -- It's a lot easier to cut more off then it is to cut MORON.
Location: Beech Grove, Indiana, Birthplace of the "King of Cool"
Posts: 10,664
Quote:
Originally Posted by Leo G
Same set I have. Not impressed with their sharpness. I'll have to get off my lazy but and resharpen them like I do with all my cheap tools. Then they will work better.
They don't "clear themselves" very well
in hardwoods, but they do have their
place in my arsenal.
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