Tight Miters On Door Casings Help!

ROGER RAMJET

I would sincerelyappreciate some tips on getting tight perfect joints on my stain grade casings. Do you always re-cut casing package . visual for margins or keep the level out. thanks .

genecarp

Casing package? . something smells funny

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silvertree

I use a 250 tooth back bevel zip tool and a laser on my casing packages.
Then I caulk.

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Justtrimmin

Hire a professional.

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Tex Remodeler

First a good trim saw with a Fine finish blade LOTS of teeth (Note ; not the one that came with the saw). Re-cut a sliver off your casing at the 45 install the top piece then the sides nail the corners first after fitting them tight 3 -4 nails if needed then proceed down to the bottom getting you reveal correct. Your top joint should remain in place due to the nails in close proximity to themselves. In addition a pin nail in the side shot into the top piece first keeps it from separating.
Most pre cut stuff is garbage due to the mass production and the low wages paid to produce it. Better to order your stain grade trim in long lenths and delete the pre cut trim and cut on the job as you have to anyway. Paint grade you can get buy with. But thats my 2 cents worth.

Good luck

Double-A

I have found that glue works miracles. Glue, pin, let dry for 15-20 minutes then hang. Looks like professional work every time, but I might be biased.

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"My clients’ wishes are the center of my attention." -- David Guido, a contractor in Woodstock, N.Y.
New York Times, July 20, 2006

wink

i have to talk to our supplier about these casing packages, i think he's holding out on me

lee

There you go. Best way in my humble opinion.
If you use glue and spray activator it goes off a bit harder and a bit quicker. Don't even have to pin if glued up nice.

D.Foster

High tac glue, and brads. I like to work in one direction around the opening so that i am dealing with one loint at a time. As opposed to nailing the two legs on first, then you have to tweak two joints and if any adjustments need to be made, you're too short.

john5mt

me too!

and collins miter clamps with a little bit of a back cut.

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woodworkbykirk

same here!!
worked for one guy said "always install the legs first,never the header", i can to the conclusion of doing the header first just by common sense after having to cut a new header piece several times when i was a young apprentice first doing trim.

also, what i prefer the 23 ga over 2 part glue for gluing mitres, comes down to $$. around here a can of mitre pro was $30 2 years ago the last time i used it, we needed 3 cans on one project. since then ive been using a micro pinner and a set of collins tool mitre clamps, $130 up front for both which should last hopefully quite some time, then $5 for 3000 pack of 1 " 23 ga pins

Double-A

Collins are nice, but Clampman's clamps are nice nice. I'm still trying to justify buying them just for the woot factor. I don't enough trim anymore to "need" them.

I think its more of case of just needing them... if'n ya kno whats I means.

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"My clients’ wishes are the center of my attention." -- David Guido, a contractor in Woodstock, N.Y.
New York Times, July 20, 2006

jeffaah

I bought 4 Clam Clamps a couple weeks ago. I think they have already paid for themselves. The "older" guys that work for me are still set in thier ways.....But are surprised to see my production.

They have trimmed doors thier way for years and are not open to new production techniques. On the other hand I'm open to anything that will make my work better and faster. Clam Clamps are definately a must have for trim guys that deal with larger casing

naldrvr

Pre-cut casing is butchered from the supplier and a waste of time, re-cut any pre-cut casing with a good miter box, the smaller the blade the better. The less blade deflection you have the better first fits you're going to have. Backcut your miters with a utility knife or a block plane I only use a 8-1/2" Hitachi slide saw with a 60 tooth for interior trim mostly because of the smaller blade. Bevel the cut face back with a low profile block plane or knife to close a hairline gap up. The main thing is take the time to walk back to the saw if you need to with a good saw and doors set right, windows set by framers out of square and frame edges set back will be your only problem. Nails are only used on joints to hold it till the GLUE drys if your not gluing the joints don't bother fitting the joint you're wasting your time. After 5-10,000 casing joints you can do it your sleep. It's all easy when you learn to do right the first time.

naldrvr

All the clamps in the world won't get casing to lay against a wall that's built out 1/4" by a drywall hanger putting joints over half the doors and windows in a house. A wall that is 4-3/4" at the corners with 4-9/16" frame the casing has to be fit there's no magic to it. I cut out a entire house of 3-1/2" door and window casing at the same time once all the casing cut will trim 20-25 doors in an eight hour day and it would take a hell of a lot of clamps, after 30 years there no one using 4 clamps waiting for glue to dry going to keep up. You "younger" guys better get a big old box of those clamps if you're going to keep up with us "older" guys.

jeffaah

wow....5 total post and you already come across as a crotchity old guy. Your post is an example of exactly what I'm talking about....not willing to even entertain the idea of trying a new way of doing things.

The clamps are more beneficial to the longevity of the joint. It's just a better joint then just pinning the corners. Trust me...I still pin some miters, smash drywall and fit miters on the wall. But joints made with glue and clamps are stronger....add a bisciut and that joint is practically bullet proof through the seasons.

BTW....the clamps only need to be on for 5-10 mins depending on the glue. Get all the info before bashing the finish techniques of many of the members of this forum.

naldrvr

You seem a bit touchy for someone who thinks the "old" guys are crotchety. Most of us old fellers know about longevity. We have joinery out there still intact that was done when you were born. But thanks for the input. Keep on clamping I'm sure it will help your Longevity.

nelzar13

ahhh just what i wa gonna say but i figured id read through the posts and see if any one else does it......I recently got a plate joiner and for right now im using it on every thing in my house! no sanding miters! cut your 45's buiscut pin your corners and assemble the whole casing as one thats it your done!

TBFGhost

....while it is not very fast I fit both legs and then do the head. I cut the head 1" longer then it needs to be and fit the left side of the head to the left leg (letting the right side run long over the right leg), once that joint is fit, I move over to the right leg(letting the left side run over the left leg), fit that joint and then cut the head to the correct length....is is not super fast but the joints are perfect. I glue, pin and then clamp the miters....however, I do smaller jobs. The most "casing intense" job I have had to do was 7 doors and 4 windows.... Its slower, but the joints are tight and the reveals are perfect....

mutha potamus

The easiest way is to get used to color matching wood fillers like Minwax to your stain.