Skirt Jig

C.C.R.

Does anyone have a router jig for cutting tread slots in skirt boards?
The way I do it now is ; Cut the skirts top and bottom to length, mark each individual tread (before permenant install), then drill for the front of each tread with paddle bit, then make straight cuts with circular saw. This works well but is a little slow. I know I've seen an adjustable router jig specificly for this operation, but can't seem to find it again.
It's sort of like a sled that straddles the skirtboard and the slot for the router spins within it to change the angle for the treads.
Any help would be appreciated.

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StairBuilder

Why not just cut the treads and risers tight and glue and nail? You're doing a ton of extra work for...what? Stairtool works like a charm.

MarcP

I think Porter-Cable makes the jig you are talking about.

C.C.R.

Dadoing the treads into the skirts prevents the inevitable shrinkage of the tread and the resulting,unsightly, gap between tread and skirt.
Once you get use to doing it the right way it's not that much extra time
But the jig I'm looking for saves even more time

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"When Quality is Top Priority"
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StairBuilder

Well, I've been doing it the wrong way for the last 15 years and I haven't had a callback yet. Treads shrinking is not "inevitable".
I do certain things to get the treads tight and keep them tight.
I'll share some later when I have time if you're interested.

C.C.R.

I've only done about 60 staircases, but that's the way I was taught (dado treads into skirts, risers cut tight).
In 15 years of stairbuilding I'm sure you've done quite a few more stairs than I have. So PLEASE enlighten me. Seriously, If I can cut my labor in about half then

__________________
Complete Custom Remodeling
"When Quality is Top Priority"
www.completecustomremodeling.com

C.C.R.

I've only done about 60 staircases, but that's the way I was taught (dado treads into skirts, risers cut tight).
In 15 years of stairbuilding I'm sure you've done quite a few more stairs than I have. So PLEASE enlighten me. Seriously, If I can cut my labor in about half and get the same lasting quality then

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Complete Custom Remodeling
"When Quality is Top Priority"
www.completecustomremodeling.com

StairBuilder

The three most important things I do:

1) After installing the risers tight, run 3" screws through the stringer into the skirt behind the risers. It will push the skirt away and then suck it up tight to the riser.

2) cut the treads about 1/16" to 1/8" long.

3) Run a small bead of liquid nails along the bottom of the riser and along the skirts where the tread will be.

note: this is for painted skirts and risers. If you're doing a stain grade system you have to be a little more careful as cutting the treads long does sometimes open small cracks between the skirt and riser. The 3" screws help minimize this. They also create counter pressure that holds the skirt to the tread.

Oh one more thing- drive 4d finish nails through the risers into the back edge of the treads.

If you try this let me know how it goes...

Greg Di

If I'm visualizing your method properly, I'm assuming you have access to the underside of the stairs while you are doing this? If you don't, then I'm not thinking it through correctly and am missing something in the way you are shimming everything.

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StairBuilder

Greg- Yes, this is working with open stringers. There's another thread around here on closed stringers (permanent rough treads). They are a hassle.

After I glue and stick the tread in, I reach around behind it and shim where necessary.

EyeLevelTrimmer

Porter-Cable use to make an adjustable stair jig but no longer does: Someone owns the copyright and won't allow them to be made. There is one available from the UK (Trendmachinery).
I've just made them from MDF or plywood and use a pattern bit in the router.