Shoe Molding In Front Of Front Entry Door ?

icfbunt

I have a situation (new construction) where I have a 36" door with 2 sidelites. The rough framers held the door up about 3/4". The tile was installed up to the door with approx 1/4" gap. You could normally caulk there with caulk to match the grout. However, the tile is also about 3/16 to 1/4" below the bottom of the door. i.e the bottom of the door is 3/4" off the subfloor and the top of the tile is about 9/16" off the floor leaving the 3/16" gap. I dont know what else to do other than put shoe molding. The is plenty of room below the bottom of the door for shoe molding, but my question is what do I do to terminate the molding where it butts into the door casing at the sidelites? The shoe will be butting to the inside of the casing, so not sure what to do at that point?

thks...Larry

King of Crown

In all honesty, I would putty the gap, or caulk it with a match color.

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painterman

What about using a piece of door stop

troubleseeker

For 3/16" under the threshold, I get a tube of color matched/sanded caulking from the tile supplier and caulk. If the threshold flexes, first rip a thin shim and slip under it for suport. If the gap is wider, I route a small roundover (1/4") on a piece of stock and then rip it. First to the required height, then to thickness so that it fits flush with the face of the door casing. I then slip a shim under the threshold, bedding it in construction adhesive; then adhere the above piece in place with adhesive. The whole thing takes about 20 minutes.

house bldr

Why don't you just take a piece of the same casing the door is trimmed with and rip off the thin side the heighth you need and tack that under the door.If the door isn't trimmed yet you could even miter the small piece into the sides.

Mike Finley

I would caulk it too with color matched caulk. 3/16 is nothing. Is that revealing too much?

You can also just do a return on each end of your shoe. Thats the right way to end a piece of molding that doesn't butt against something.

Ted W

I follow what you're saying, there's a huge gap under the threshold, 3/4" deep by however far back, which would probably use 3 tubes of caulk to fill.

You have to first get something solid under that threshold. Do you have or can you get a few extra tiles? Remove tiles as needed so you can get solid wood under the threshold, and glue it in. Then replace the removed tiles, caulk as normal.

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Mike Finley

Why not use backer rod?

Mr. D

I woudn't have messed up in to begin with

Ted W

It's a threshold, needs something solid under it.

Mr. D makes a good point, but hey, where's retrospect when you need it? Still, I was wondering when someone was gonna say it.

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dayspring

Rip a series of luan plywood strips the length of the door threshold, enough to build the floor under the threshold up to tile level, or close. Install them one at a time. Glue them in place under the threshold. Then shim the threshold as needed if you can't get another luan strip in. Caulk the 3/16 gap with color matched tile caulk.

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icfbunt

There is solid backing under the threshold. The framer installed the door ontop of a 3/4" 1x during installation. There is the sublfoor, then a piece of 1x then the door. The 1x is flush with the inside of the door so there is continuous support. There is no gap under the threshold, the bottom of the door is just about 1/4" above the finish tile. I think there was originally going to be 3/4" hardwood installed, but instead tile was installed.

thks!!

all vinyl

the key is to make it look like it belongs their and i agree with the molding any way thats way i would do it

JTKoury

I've had the same problem on a site, but there was a grey plastic drip-cap underneath the entire door unit. When I have a difference more than a 1/2", I used a piece of oak nosing (provided by a finish super) 1/2" x 2" and rounded edge at the front top edge. Since the door has an oak nosing that's stapled across on the interior sill edge, but the plastic piece comes up and is showing about 3/8", I had to run the oak piece on a router table just enough to clear that plastic dripcap and but up to the original nosing. Cut it at a 90 up against each side where there was casing. The painters came later and used clear coat to match the mudsill and the nosing that came with the door. It always looked as if it belonged.
Other punch guys used 1/4 round (primed white YUCK!), white scribe, even oak corner molding from the cabinetry kits (they just cut one side so it fit over the dripcap, only sometimes it wasn't touching the floor so they used caulk).
You're lucky you don't have to deal with drip-caps.

john5mt

Why not shove an 1/8" strip back there as a backer and then grout up to the threshhold?

Casework King

If there is no deflection in the threshold throw a little sprayfoam in there allow ample drying time, then cut it about 1/8" below sea level and fill it with color match caulk. If there is deflection I would pull some tile and do it right. It is possible to pull tile without breaking them for reuse. How carefull you have to be depends on the type!

Casework King

[quote=icfbunt;174624]The rough framers held the door up about 3/4".

Where were the finish framers before the tile was installed..... Just kidding

Blackbird

Reset the door.

WNYcarpenter

Why don't you just throw a thick welcome to cover the problem...I agree with blackbird. If you're worried about milling a peice to cover up you'll never be happy until it's done right.

I guess evreyone is assuming the reason the door was set so high was to tuck the finished floor under the threshold for overlapping protection. If the floor is butting into anything flush with the interior plane of the threshhold you're going to have moisture problems regardless. Without seeing the problem I'd use the same material as the interior section of the threshold, or a relative design theme from the casing and mill a piece to fit after sealing the seam with something durable.