Replacing Door Blanks

loneframer

I was handed down this Kwikset boring jig from my dad, it's around 30 years old or more. Just thought I'd share. Notice the framers mentality for the door stands. the hinge mortising jig worked well but is by no means a pros tool, OK in a pinch.

mdshunk

That's a serious ship auger for the lock hole. Never seen one that large. That basic set is still for sale. I like the square corner chisel things:

http://hdsupplysolutions.com/webapp/...5-1&req=search

loneframer

This is the complete set, it is a real timesaver. I dont see the keeper plug or the cylinder removal tool in that kit. Notice the brace and bit adapterThe butt hinge markers are Stanley

Hardly Working

Old school, built to last.

loneframer

I used to set lots of deadbolt locks in the late 70s- early 80s with this same kit, now almost 30 years later it's mine and back to use. A little fine tuning with a diamond file and just like new. Thanks dad

Tom Struble

thats a sweet tool your a lucky man

JustaFramer

Nice set up. I like the kwikset. I have those ol' stanley butt hinge markers too. They got passed to me from my Grandfather.

I have used the porter cable pro hinge step up. Now you need a mortise lock setup and you'll be set.

hbiss

That Quickset jig is a current item today. I use a hole saw from both sides though. A lot gentler on the door.

Gus Dering

Is that a Dodge in the first pic?

I have a tool or two from dad and gramps. One is pretty entertaining.
Wait for it

loneframer

How can you be the Loneframer if you don't get outta Dodge?

BKFranks

Shoot, I've seen framers use a 2x6 about 2 feet long with a notch cut in the edge for a door stand.

Tom Struble

a siding guys attempt at being a carpenter i found these bucks in a old FHB mag they actually work

loneframer

Those bucks have potential, I think I may make some changes to my prototype My foam sill sealer is cutting edge though.

Tom Struble

that it is my friend

loneframer

I went and set all those doors yesterday, everything went smooth except that the existing openings were really out of square due to excessive settlement in the building. The unit was 40 rise from our machining area and every one of 15 doors required multiple trips up and down to get an acceptable fit. Got paid on the way out the door, gotta love a happy customer.

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"Walking the fine line between production and perfection"



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Home Work Pro

I always mark on the existing door adjustments to be transfered onto the new slab.
Then, set old door on new, transfer all hinge and lock cuts, transfer all adjustments, plane and then hang it.
I hate to pick up a door more than once.

loneframer

Most of the old doors wouldn't even close to take notes.
I got measurements for hinges and handlesets when I went to look at the job, which worked out fine, the problem was that over the years some of the doors actually had to be raised on the hinge side and trimmed from 3/4 to nothing(no kidding) This building has some serious structural issues with joist spans and cantilevered bearing walls. Also, the existing jambs weren't shimmed properly, so some trade secrets had to be used to get decent margins, as well as planing many areas. There wasn't enough room on the slabs to take all the notes required to pull this off. It took 9 hours for 2 men to complete 15 doors, not counting the 5 hours I spent machining in hinges and handlesets. The challenges were reflected in the price and the customer was very happy with the finished product, having doors that actually close and latch.

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"Walking the fine line between production and perfection"



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Tom Struble

hmmm trade secrets

loneframer

You know how the bottom hinge always gets tight and the door binds on the jamb? I flip back the bottom leaf on the jamb, countersink a couple holes so a deck screw will slide through the jamb, tighten them into the jack stud so the screw heads stick out slightly then reinstall the hinge leaf working each screw little by little. It will pull the jamb out because the deck screws won't give and it pushes the door away from the jamb giving you a nice margin. Works great, try it sometime.

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"Walking the fine line between production and perfection"



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Tom Struble

thank you for that i will try it. ive heard a similar trick were you drive a deck screw thru the jamb only, remove it grind the point flat reinstall it, as it hits the liner it will push out the jamb cut the head off with a dremel or angle grinder

thanks again tom