Removing Crook

 
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Old 01-12-2018, 09:33 PM   #41
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Re: Removing Crook


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Old 01-12-2018, 09:50 PM   #42
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Re: Removing Crook


^^^ sweet.
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Old 01-12-2018, 09:55 PM   #43
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Re: Removing Crook


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Originally Posted by Mordekyle View Post
Wedge sticks to the opposite wall?




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Who is trying to accomplish what in that picture? Looks like the time I installed a plastic glue up shower kit.
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Old 01-12-2018, 10:42 PM   #44
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Re: Removing Crook


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I have those, things can get sloppy that way.
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Old 01-12-2018, 11:13 PM   #45
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Re: Removing Crook


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Who is trying to accomplish what in that picture? Looks like the time I installed a plastic glue up shower kit.
I think they are stretching the carpet
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Old 01-12-2018, 11:39 PM   #46
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Re: Removing Crook


or flattening the drywall over the electrical box they forgot to cut out.
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Old 01-13-2018, 12:49 AM   #47
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Re: Removing Crook


Shear room. New code.
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Old 01-13-2018, 01:51 AM   #48
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Re: Removing Crook


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Splitting is something to consider but I'm not too concerned as I'm only needing to straighten 1/4" or less in 5 feet, it's not a lot of tension.

Jig to dowel is a good idea. Just a square of ply would line the holes up nicely but I agree that if either hole is out of square it'll be a problem. Biscuit is a good option. Might just dado out the center and put corresponding cleats on the framing for it to slip over.

I was approaching this from the wrong direction, I really like the idea of some sort of joint to align things as glue sets up.
1/4' or less in 5 feet? You're over-thinking this IMHO... scribe it, trim (use a jigsaw, a belt sander, or plane) it, and be done with it... you're never going to notice the reduction in material over that length but it should only take 5-10 minutes and you'll be much happier with the fit and not have to think about it going forward...
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Old 01-13-2018, 09:11 AM   #49
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Re: Removing Crook


The trouble with scribing the back edge is that it leaves the front edge still not being straight. The 7/8" overhang on the front edge on both ends will become 5/8" in the center after I remove 1/4" from the middle. The cove apron is 5/8" deep, which will leave me with a nice reveal on both ends and it being flush to the face of the sill in the center. Scribing isn't an option.
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Quote:
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Splitting is something to consider but I'm not too concerned as I'm only needing to straighten 1/4" or less in 5 feet, it's not a lot of tension.

Jig to dowel is a good idea. Just a square of ply would line the holes up nicely but I agree that if either hole is out of square it'll be a problem. Biscuit is a good option. Might just dado out the center and put corresponding cleats on the framing for it to slip over.

I was approaching this from the wrong direction, I really like the idea of some sort of joint to align things as glue sets up.
1/4' or less in 5 feet? You're over-thinking this IMHO... scribe it, trim (use a jigsaw, a belt sander, or plane) it, and be done with it... you're never going to notice the reduction in material over that length but it should only take 5-10 minutes and you'll be much happier with the fit and not have to think about it going forward...
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Old 01-13-2018, 09:29 AM   #50
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Re: Removing Crook


Did I say glue it and wedge it into place yet?
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Old 01-13-2018, 09:39 AM   #51
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Re: Removing Crook


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1/4' or less in 5 feet? You're over-thinking this IMHO... scribe it, trim (use a jigsaw, a belt sander, or plane) it, and be done with it... you're never going to notice the reduction in material over that length but it should only take 5-10 minutes and you'll be much happier with the fit and not have to think about it going forward...
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Old 01-13-2018, 09:55 AM   #52
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Re: Removing Crook





Vacant house; a crooked stud.

The stud was so bad that it had a crook of about three quarter-inch towards the bottom of the window. The drywall was cracked and bulging, so It needed to be repaired. I wanted to see if I could get away from replacing the drywall from the window to the corner and trying to match texture. Although I specialize in home repairs, my drywall repair skill is lacking.

I also had to replace the LP panel siding on the outside. After I peeled off the sheet, I snipped out the stud with the recip.




The zip poles, some water with fungicide in it, pressure, and time got the wall on the way back to where it should go. The wooden wedge worked better, and got the drywall back where it should be.

The new stud made for a very small drywall repair. If you look carefully, you can see the repair, but as they say, it ain't the Taj Mahal.



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Old 01-13-2018, 10:21 AM   #53
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Re: Removing Crook


I thought the title of this thread was about Donald Trump
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Old 01-13-2018, 10:35 AM   #54
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Re: Removing Crook


The art of trim carpentry is taking all of these imperfections and guiding the eye away from them. This is done by using reveals, cheating them here and there. This is done by installing some things out of plumb, or out of level, but correct to margin. Sure, we all want everything perfectly square,plumb and level, but entropy gets in the way. As well as terrible framers.

Now, joint your sills, add material to the backside of them, and refinish them. Then scribe to fit. All other options have been presented.

Next time start with slightly oversized sills.
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Old 01-13-2018, 10:42 AM   #55
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Re: Removing Crook


Quote:
Originally Posted by Mordekyle View Post



Vacant house; a crooked stud.

The stud was so bad that it had a crook of about three quarter-inch towards the bottom of the window. The drywall was cracked and bulging, so It needed to be repaired. I wanted to see if I could get away from replacing the drywall from the window to the corner and trying to match texture. Although I specialize in home repairs, my drywall repair skill is lacking.

I also had to replace the LP panel siding on the outside. After I peeled off the sheet, I snipped out the stud with the recip.




The zip poles, some water with fungicide in it, pressure, and time got the wall on the way back to where it should go. The wooden wedge worked better, and got the drywall back where it should be.

The new stud made for a very small drywall repair. If you look carefully, you can see the repair, but as they say, it ain't the Taj Mahal.



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Here's another good way to get leverage in a situation like that. Although I've never tried it in a horizontal setting.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?list=PLR...&v=2UFFx7Sslzs
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Old 01-13-2018, 11:15 AM   #56
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Re: Removing Crook


^^^^

I saw that, good stuff.


This worked well for me:

The small board is beveled on each end.

The top headlock served as a fulcrum. I put pressure on the long member, and held it there with the bottom headlock.



As the wall moved back and pressure was relieved, a few turns on the bottom headlock kept the movement going.





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Old 01-13-2018, 11:26 AM   #57
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Re: Removing Crook


Most of the suggestions seem like a lot of freaking work. If it's a time-eater project, just get another board, stain it and slap it up. Sometimes it's best to throw in the towel and start anew.

Often I've seen guys spend hours trying to fix a problem when they could have started fresh and been done with it. Myself included.
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Old 01-13-2018, 12:39 PM   #58
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Re: Removing Crook


57 posts...
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Old 01-13-2018, 01:18 PM   #59
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Re: Removing Crook


I don't think any of the suggested solutions take more time (labor, not elapsed) than starting fresh.

Scribing to fit

Pinning with dowels or screws

Temporarily wedging




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Old 01-13-2018, 01:30 PM   #60
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Re: Removing Crook


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I thought the title of this thread was about Donald Trump
No Hildabeast.

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