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03-03-2009, 04:22 PM
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#1
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Pro
Trade:
GC/Developer
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 107
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Recessed Door Handle for Pocket Doors. My Chisel on compressed would looks hacked
I have three pocket doors that I am installing on a job. I am fairly good with the chisel but these doors are compressed wood inside and they don't chisel well.
I was thinking to template this out in plywood and use a router but is there anything else of should think of?
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03-03-2009, 04:28 PM
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#2
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Member
Trade:
Carpentry & Remodeling
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Hollywood, FL
Posts: 53
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I don't know what kind of hardware your using but I use a jig saw to cut out for pocket door hardware.
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03-03-2009, 04:31 PM
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#3
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Plausible Deniability
Trade:
General Contractor
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Lakewood CA.
Posts: 2,235
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Quote:
Originally Posted by personalt
I have three pocket doors that I am installing on a job. I am fairly good with the chisel but these doors are compressed wood inside and they don't chisel well.
I was thinking to template this out in plywood and use a router but is there anything else of should think of?
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I would use a router for sure.
__________________
"The problem with socialism is that eventually you run out of other people's money."
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03-03-2009, 04:44 PM
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#4
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Pro
Trade:
Remodeling
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Northeast, Pa
Posts: 945
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Either a templete and full sized router or freehand with a a rotozip and plunge base and take little bites.
__________________
'The trouble with our liberal friends is not that they're ignorant; it's just that they know so much that isn't so.' - Ronald Reagan
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03-03-2009, 04:53 PM
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#5
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Plausible Deniability
Trade:
General Contractor
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Lakewood CA.
Posts: 2,235
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Now that I think about it.A Dremel w/ a router bit works great too....
__________________
"The problem with socialism is that eventually you run out of other people's money."
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03-03-2009, 05:06 PM
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#6
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Pro
Trade:
GC/Developer
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 107
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I like the rotozip idea. I have a beefy drywall one just need to check the collet(sp) size to make sure it will take a router bit. But I guess I find a dremmel bit otherwise.
Since these are already hung I like the smaller tool idea. T
The router would have been a little harder to hold to a hung door. That reminds me of a job where we had to punch out some bricks about for a vent about 4 feet of the ground. I didnt have my hammer drill there that day and my big guy says 'No problem' and take the jackhammer and lifts it up and holds it sideways like a hammer drill..
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03-03-2009, 05:47 PM
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#7
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---
Trade:
residential framing/general carpentry
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Southern New Jersey
Posts: 3,596
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On mortised in hardware I use a forstner bit in a cordless drill to get out the bulk, then fine tune with a sharp chisel. There is a little bit of a learning curve. Don't try to drill holes too close together or the bit will walk into previous hole. Once the bulk of material is removed, the remainder chisels away fairly easily.
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03-03-2009, 06:05 PM
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#8
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Fentoozler
Trade:
Professional Pie and Pastry Taster
Join Date: May 2007
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 5,589
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Which hardware for the pull:
A)
or
B)
or "other"?
__________________

The UD is quite possibly man kinds finest accomplishment.
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03-03-2009, 06:16 PM
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#9
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Trade:
residential framing/general carpentry
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Southern New Jersey
Posts: 3,596
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Celtic
Which hardware for the pull:
A)
or
B)
or "other"?
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The ones I use are only visible on the edge of the door, mortised in about 2' deep, then a finger pull sets in a shallow dado 2 3/8 back to center. It's about 1" wide x 2 1/2 tall. Same concept as option 2 but looks more high end.
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03-03-2009, 06:22 PM
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#10
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Pro
Trade:
General Contractor, Remodeler
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Eugene, OR.
Posts: 825
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Quote:
Originally Posted by loneframer
The ones I use are only visible on the edge of the door, mortised in about 2' deep, then a finger pull sets in a shallow dado 2 3/8 back to center. It's about 1" wide x 2 1/2 tall. Same concept as option 2 but looks more high end. 
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So you can't lock the door?
__________________
now i am scared for my future
i've got all ten
smashed a lot of them stupidly before
-john5mt
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03-03-2009, 06:25 PM
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#11
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Trade:
residential framing/general carpentry
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Southern New Jersey
Posts: 3,596
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Forry
So you can't lock the door?
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The ones with locks have a mechanism that is integral with the fingerpull.
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03-03-2009, 06:27 PM
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#12
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Pro
Trade:
General Contractor, Remodeler
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Eugene, OR.
Posts: 825
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I don't get it, do you have a pic? Is the lockable one only visible from the door edge?
__________________
now i am scared for my future
i've got all ten
smashed a lot of them stupidly before
-john5mt
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03-03-2009, 06:52 PM
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#13
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Pro
Trade:
GC/Developer
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 107
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Like this one
http://www.doorhardwareplus.com/deco...Satin%20Nickel
The metal on the one I have is real thick so there is no chance to even just drill out the middle section. In order to not look stupid I really need to recess the whole thing.
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03-03-2009, 06:53 PM
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#14
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---
Trade:
residential framing/general carpentry
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Southern New Jersey
Posts: 3,596
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Forry
I don't get it, do you have a pic? Is the lockable one only visible from the door edge?
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I found something similar at house of antique hardware, mortised box with brass fingerpulls, I don't recall the ones I installed being that big, but I could be wrong, it was years ago. The mortised passage pulls we used were johnson, much simpler to install, but not as easy as the edge notched models. Fingerpulls are a pain too.
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03-03-2009, 07:15 PM
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#15
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Member
Trade:
Carpentry, Remodeling
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 50
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Think I'd use a paddle bit to make 2 holes then connect them with a jig saw or even utility knife. Problem U'll have will be that low density wood crap they put in the solid portion where lockset goes prolly won't hold screws. I've used a little silicone to help, or other times chiseled out a portion of that soft wood crap and guled a wood block between the masonite skins.
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