Quick Wood Glue Question

mattsk8

I have always used tightbond original. I decided to buy tightbond II and see how it fares but then I thought maybe before I go gluing everything up I should check this wonderfull forum and see if it has any adverse effects while using it for cabinets and doors.

I guess my real question is, is it better than the original? I know it's waterproof but aside from that what are the pros/ cons??

Robie

I think you'd be okay (better than okay) with either. I personally use Titebond II for everything but used regular Titebond before II came out with no issues.

PrestigeR&D

I use TBII for most of my joinery with the exception of my staved construction then I use TBIII , the open time on TBIII is10 min and 4000psi strength rating- vs -TBII at 5 min open time and a 3750psi strength rating - both will work very well it just depends on your application and joinery.

Tom R

Good points mentioned above, - - I believe II's main advantage over I is it's performance in lower temps, - - otherwise it's pretty much the same.

I do prefer III myself now because of that clear open-time advantage . . .

mattsk8

Thanks!! Guess I'll run w/ it !

WarnerConstInc.

I stick with II because of it's use for indoors or out, when I run out of my giant jug of II I will probably switch to III.

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basswood

I still use Titebond original for most shop work.

For jobsite trim carpentry I like Titebond Molding and Trim glue. Strong initial tack, fast set, no run no drip, void filling, and dries clear.

For most outside work and in cooler temps TB III (also use it for lam. top miters for the longer open time and waterproof qualities), but it will creep under loads so for structural stuff, I go with a poly glue (PL premium or Gorilla) or epoxy.

Poly glues can be a pain, but work in colder temps and will not freeze so they can be left in the truck (even in MN)... just have to warm up before use.

Cheers,

Bass

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dedhed6b

Jusr resist the urge to wipe excess glue on your clothing, because it is waterproof and will not come out in the wash.

jeffatsquan

Hi Bass,

First let me thank you for all your informative post.

I was wondering if you could give an example of "creeping under load so for structural stuff I use a poly glue"

I should probably know this ,but to give us a better understanding on what glue to choose for different applications. I understand the temp. and working time, it's just the line between titebond III and gorilla glue I am not clear on.

We have been building cedar corner boards and were not sure about priming first so we did an experiment and the Gorilla glue held very well on the primed surfaces.

Would you not recommend this method, as maybe my results were misleading.

thank you again

mikeswoods

Jeff---Excellent question-----Why don't you start a new thread on this subject.

There are so many new glues on the market that I (and a few others) may be missing some valuable knowledge.----------------Mike-----

basswood

Hi Jeff,

Cedar is a known for glue failure, but Gorilla glue (or other poly glues) work well. It would work better before priming though.

Gorilla glue works down to 40*F and has open time of 15-20 min., whereas TB3 works down to 45*F and has 10-15 min open time. The use in colder temps is good for those of us in the North.

Fine Woodworking did a glued joint test and gave Gorilla glue bad grades, but they did not clamp or fasten the parts together. This voids the test, IMO. Poly glues expand when curing, so it can force unsecured pieces apart and weaken the joint. Use clamps or fasteners and the expansion of the glue forces the glue into the wood for a strong bond.

Creep means the two glued surfaces stay together up to a point, but slide past each other. Most wood glues allow creep, if loaded. So if you are building a torsion box, loaded box beam, wood brackets, etc., then the Poly glues or Epoxies are the way to go.

Cheers,

Bass

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woodtradesman

Quick comment about glue creep.

From my personal experience TB-III has more glue creep then TB-II when used in counter top glue ups.

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mrick

Good info. In another thread I was thinking of using glue for bullnose on a stair tread. I was concerned about it holding up under the foot traffic. One poster said the glue bond would be stronger than the rest of the wood.

I am glad to see the recommendation for titebond. That was his recommendation also.

mrick

woodworkbykirk

hey bass, is there an online supplier of the trim glue? around my area lepage wood glue is the easiest to get ahold of after that its gorilla wood glue.

i can get titebond but i can only get it at one woodworking supply which is outta the way and has office hours.

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basswood

Amazon has it:

http://www.amazon.com/Franklin-Inter.../dp/B0002YXDXU

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custrel

Had to use Gorilla glue on a bunch of returns for some chair rail - the only glue my ex-boss had with him.

We taped down the returns and let them dry over night. The next day I spent about an hour trying to pick/scrape all the residue from the glue that had foamed up around the joint all over the finish.

Later, as I was hanging the chair rail I heard a soft 'pop' and saw that the return had popped off the end of the chair rail. I don't know if it was still curing and expanding or if the glue just finally failed at that point.

Throughout the rest of the day I had maybe 25% of the other returns just pop off after the chair rail was installed.

I've never used Gorilla glue for wood since then.