Pseudo-Elliptical Pocket Door In Arch

basswood

This has been a while in the making (have too much going on), but here are some photos and explanations on how I did this.

I'll start at the end, to show the finished product, then jump back a few steps (some of this was already in the "Cutting Corners" thread on arches).

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basswood

Here are some pics of stapling in the curved corner frames and then rocking. These were done in double layers of 1/4" rock run long and using offset splices. This rock was set in PL Premium and stapled off with a narrow crown stapler.

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basswood

Standard Flex Bead kinked bending this tight, so I made my own flex bead with Straight Flex. I set the bead in 3M spray adhesive and added a few staples to keep it where I wanted it. The bead on the pocket edges needed to be perfectly plumb and straight so I set it with a level.

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basswood

Here is a pic showing mesh taping of bead and splices. I did this to keep cracking to a minimum (especially on the door pocket).

And a pic of mudding in the pocket.

The last pic is out of order... I test fit the door and made sure I could reach the trolley hardware with the arches before I got too carried away.

Gotta run... more later.

Cheers,

Bass

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Fyrzowt

Interesting photo progression. Thanks Brian.

Dave

naptown CR

Why would you curve the door and not just the stops and visible jamb?
Seems to me that you went to an extraordinary effort to create this.
Why not just make the door square, set the pocket door hardware and create the arch as an overlay. I realize that that would not have been nearly the challenge but would have created the same effect when the door was closed and spread the rollers further apart on the pocket door hardware thereby reducing the tendency to come off the track. (Even the 3 roller Johnson hardware with captve rollers has come off the track as I have had to put more of them back on the track than I can count)

CanCritter

nice work

Gus Dering

I bet he will say that he wants to be able to get the door out without tearing out the arch. Just a guess.

Clever use of materials, Bass. Looks great.
I only wish I liked the door blank.

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genecarp

Thanks Brian, nice thread, GMOD

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basswood

I've done it both ways. On circular arches (see photo), the door stays square (as a round top would not work for hanging on the track). The trouble is that one side of the arch had to be torn out to remove the door.

The flat topped arch in this thread allows hanging the door with a top the same shape as the opening for removal in the future. The hardware that I used specified that the brackets mounted to the top of the door be set in 5" from the edges... I only had to set them in another inch to allow for the curved corners. I works very smoothly and should be fine. Cutting the curved corners on the door did not take long.

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basswood

Thanks, The door blank is just a match to the others in the house. It is a 1950's modern style place so everything is smooth and streamlined.

Cheers,

Bass

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Tom Struble

cool Bassdoes it make a ''shwoop'' sound when it opens like on startrek?

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Tom

Gus Dering

Watch it Clingon, Bass might beam you up .

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stp57

What a brilliant idea to tape the bead. It raises the thickness somewhat, but in the long run is well worth it. Capt Sheetrock is gonna get you for using mesh though.
Steve

basswood

The trolley brackets were slotted for sideways removal of the door, though this does help keep the bolts in place, I wanted to be able to slide the bolts in and out of the brackets with the door in the place. This may be overkill, but is would allow for replacement of worn out rollers without removing the door (so no removing of bent stop molding required).

The slots are in the same axis as the motion of the door now, but they are in opposition, so both pulling on the door and pushing is forcing the hanger bolt into one of the brackets and keeping it from sliding out of the other bracket.

The bolts are seated into a recess in the brackets and lock washered, so they should stay put.

One pic here shows how far I moved the bracket in to allow for the curve of the arch.

The last pic shows cutting the shoulders on the door. Just touched up the jigsaw cut with a belt sander.

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basswood

Still working on the sound effects and the motion activation.

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basswood

In this case the bead projects more than the thickness of the mesh tape, so the mud floats right over it.

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loneframer

Once again, a one of a kind job Bass. Nice work.
I have a GC friend that taped every corner bead in his house, nearly 20 years ago. I'm not sure if it was worth the effort, but he never had one of them show a fracture in the mud.

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basswood

I ripped the trim from 4/4 flat sawn white oak. The rips of the edge of flatsawn stock are essentially quartersawn. These thin strips (3/32") of straight, vertical grain stock bent nicely after soaking in hot water.

I used gorilla (poly) glue to deal with the wet wood. The stops were double-layered laminations. After the glue cured I cleaned off the squeeze out with a sharp chisel and broke the edges with a light sanding.

I install pocket door pull hardware after adjusting the hang of the door so the hardware is centered at the same height as other knobsets in the room. I clamp a jig to the door and make the top and bottom cuts with a pull saw, drill out the back corners of the mortise and make the vertical cut with a keyhole saw or jig saw.

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genecarp

We always tape over critical bead locations, GMOD

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