Persuader Block Tip

 
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Old 03-15-2009, 09:54 PM   #1
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Persuader Block Tip


I keep handrail cut offs and use them to tap things into place with a hammer without marring the work. They are comfortable to grip because... well, duh... handrail.
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Old 03-15-2009, 09:55 PM   #2
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Re: Persuader Block Tip


I have some hard maple handrail cutoffs I use for sanding blocks.
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Old 03-15-2009, 09:59 PM   #3
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Re: Persuader Block Tip


I wish I could afford a titanium hammer
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Old 03-15-2009, 10:09 PM   #4
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Re: Persuader Block Tip


Quote:
Originally Posted by WarnerConstInc. View Post
I wish I could afford a titanium hammer
Only $8/ounce.

If I use a heavier hammer, my toolbelt pulls my pants down... I really had no choice.
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Old 03-16-2009, 11:25 AM   #5
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Re: Persuader Block Tip


Quote:
Originally Posted by WarnerConstInc. View Post
I wish I could afford a titanium hammer
This from the Green Genie?


I do the same, and I have a chunk
of beech newel for the big jobs...
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Old 03-16-2009, 03:15 PM   #6
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Re: Persuader Block Tip


Quote:
Originally Posted by WarnerConstInc. View Post
I wish I could afford a titanium hammer
maybe if so much of your money didn't go to Germany, you could.

As for beater blocks, I prefer something more flat, because it fits in my bags better.
If I am doing a lot of 3/4" reveals, I'll use a piece 3/4" thick, because I can also use it as a quick guide. A piece of hardwood flooring with the grove left on it works good for T&G. Sometimes, depending on what I need to drive down, I'll use a piece about 4x4x1, put a piece of stick on sand paper on the two 4x4 sides, and use the narrow sides as a beater block.

Last edited by TempestV; 03-16-2009 at 03:22 PM.
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Old 03-16-2009, 07:57 PM   #7
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Re: Persuader Block Tip


Aren't handrails often made of pretty hard woods? If the beater is a harder species that the work piece, you would still run a chance of denting the work. Of course, if one must whack it that hard to get it in, I suppose one should just take the piece back to the saw and cut it right...

I usually just grab whatever scrap is at hand. Dedicated handrail beaters just seem to be ergonomic overkill, but I guess that's why I'm fighting battles with cheap-a$$ plywood while Bass is writing articles for FHB.
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Old 03-16-2009, 08:13 PM   #8
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Re: Persuader Block Tip


Now what I want to know is if one hand is holding the block, and one hand is holding the hammer, how is Bass holding the camera?
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Old 03-16-2009, 09:15 PM   #9
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Re: Persuader Block Tip


Quote:
Originally Posted by TempestV View Post
Now what I want to know is if one hand is holding the block, and one hand is holding the hammer, how is Bass holding the camera?
He's not holding the hammer! The hammer face is not seated flat on the rail, & besides, that would be near impossible to swing in that configuration. Try it!

I've done a few picts in similar situations.
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Old 03-16-2009, 09:23 PM   #10
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Re: Persuader Block Tip


Yup, it's staged! That is probably a fake titanium hammer anyways. All props, that Bass is a sneaky one!!
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Old 03-16-2009, 10:51 PM   #11
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Re: Persuader Block Tip


Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeremy E View Post
Aren't handrails often made of pretty hard woods? If the beater is a harder species that the work piece, you would still run a chance of denting the work. Of course, if one must whack it that hard to get it in, I suppose one should just take the piece back to the saw and cut it right...

I usually just grab whatever scrap is at hand. Dedicated handrail beaters just seem to be ergonomic overkill, but I guess that's why I'm fighting battles with cheap-a$$ plywood while Bass is writing articles for FHB.
The hardness of the beater block is a factor, but so is surface area. If the block is wide enough, then the force of hammer blows is spread over a large enough area to avoid damage. Yet another balancing act.

In the picture, a shelf is in a tight dado and just needs to be flushed up with the bookcase side. That rail piece is oak, the ply is just oak veneer.

The rails I've done most recently were maple, cherry, pine , and oak.

I don't know that it make sense for everyone to be carrying around handrail chunks... I mostly use them in the shop.

Cheers,

Bass
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Old 03-16-2009, 10:55 PM   #12
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Re: Persuader Block Tip


Quote:
Originally Posted by TempestV View Post
Now what I want to know is if one hand is holding the block, and one hand is holding the hammer, how is Bass holding the camera?
I balanced the hammer on the block and bookcase side... so it sorta looked right. Can't get much past this crowd.
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Old 03-16-2009, 10:59 PM   #13
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Re: Persuader Block Tip


Quote:
Originally Posted by Railman View Post
He's not holding the hammer! The hammer face is not seated flat on the rail, & besides, that would be near impossible to swing in that configuration. Try it!

I've done a few picts in similar situations.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WarnerConstInc. View Post
Yup, it's staged! That is probably a fake titanium hammer anyways. All props, that Bass is a sneaky one!!
Well, your only stilettos are probably your shoes.
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Old 03-17-2009, 08:15 AM   #14
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Re: Persuader Block Tip


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Well, your only stilettos are probably your shoes.
I perfer to call those my going out shoes, thank-you!!!
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Old 03-17-2009, 11:06 AM   #15
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Re: Persuader Block Tip


Bass isnt a titanium hammer one of those diminishing returns tools you were talking about?

How can you own a stiletto and not think festool is worth it?
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Old 03-17-2009, 11:34 AM   #16
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Re: Persuader Block Tip


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I perfer to call those my going out shoes, thank-you!!!

bet you look very classy all dolled up
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Old 03-17-2009, 11:36 AM   #17
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Re: Persuader Block Tip


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Originally Posted by john5mt View Post
Bass isnt a titanium hammer one of those diminishing returns tools you were talking about?

How can you own a stiletto and not think festool is worth it?


I don't think that's a fair comparison. Besides, a titanium hammer lessens the impact to your joints, where as a Festool has a huge impact to your wallet!
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Old 03-17-2009, 12:46 PM   #18
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Re: Persuader Block Tip


Quote:
Originally Posted by basswood View Post
I keep handrail cut offs and use them to tap things into place with a hammer without marring the work. They are comfortable to grip because... well, duh... handrail.
Titanium hammer and a piece of Oak Railing? I don't know Bass, from you I expect something a little more "Damn Bro" stuff.... You better dig around in that shop and find something more Wicked.... but other then that Bro, I don't care what these guys say about you, you OK in my book
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Old 03-17-2009, 06:28 PM   #19
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Re: Persuader Block Tip


Quote:
Originally Posted by john5mt View Post
Bass isnt a titanium hammer one of those diminishing returns tools you were talking about?

How can you own a stiletto and not think festool is worth it?
Well the Stiletto finish hammer was something I had wanted for years, but had not been able to justify. My wife knew I really wanted one and bought it for me for Christmas a couple of years ago... best Christmas present in a long time (I felt like a kid again when I unwrapped it).

I do like to go as light as possible with tools that I wear around, though. The 10 oz. hammer is much nicer than a 16 oz.

Regards,

Bass
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Old 03-17-2009, 06:34 PM   #20
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Re: Persuader Block Tip


Quote:
Originally Posted by greg24k View Post
Titanium hammer and a piece of Oak Railing? I don't know Bass, from you I expect something a little more "Damn Bro" stuff.... You better dig around in that shop and find something more Wicked.... but other then that Bro, I don't care what these guys say about you, you OK in my book
I guess the best way to have a good idea is to have a whole bunch of ideas and throw them all at the wall... and see what sticks.

Cheers,

Bass
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