Old School Trim ???

mobjack68

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skymaster

Mobjack: Normally today you end the shoe at the casing line and either return it or simply cut at 22.5 or 45. That "base block" has a name it is called a Plinth block and it sole purpose was a transition for all the moldings to end into, for the casing there are corner blocks called "rosette" blocks same purpose. Mitered corners were not around due to difficulty without proper equipment. Square cuts were the norm for many many years

MERRY CHRISTMAS HAPPY NEW YEAR

Jack

Leo G

Get the Book "Early Domestic Architecture Of Connecticut" By J. Frederick Kelly. It should show a lot of construction technics of the old world trade. It has over 400 illustrations.

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pwrpapa

There was a tv. show once that a guy built furniture and other things with just old time hand tools. I can't recall the name of the show,but it was cool to watch all the hard labor that went in to making things that are taken for granted today.

behrco

The term"baseshoe" kind of explains the fact that it goes on the base.
Who knows what the "correct" way to do anything is 1000 carpenters, 1000 different ways. Just because a guy wrote a book back in who knows when doesn't mean that's the one particular way to do it. I think architects could give you more insight into the proper placing the way the romans or greeks had it layed out. . But then it gets into interpretation I think. I just go with the aplication . I tend to keep shoe mold (or base shoe) on the base, however I have overlaped the casing then left it a 1/4" shy from the inside edge. Looked pretty cool . Was it correct? Who knows. Merry X-mas

Teetorbilt

To add to behrco, this country was founded by immigrants. They brought their homeland styles and techniques into local buildings. Here, we get the Spanish influance most, a tad of French and the rest comes from up north. Google Key West and you will see many constructions that would be just in Cape Cod, especially represented is the Victorian era.

To be accurate in your area you need to know the history. This knowledge can also make you a valuable commodity as a lot of people are beginning to restore landmark/historic homes.

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JustaFramer

Roy Underhill is the guy that hosted that show. I think it was called "The Woodright". Aired on PBS I liked how he showed the way Egyptians chalked a line. I think he was out of breath by the time he rubbed chalk on the line with a block of chalk.

Robie

Here are a few books to get you started. The last may be the most valuable. They are all available at Lee Valley.

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...096,46100&ap=1

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...096,46100&ap=1

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...096,46108&ap=1

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...096,46108&ap=1

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Teetorbilt

How many of you know that mouldings were originally done with hand planes? I have quite an extensive collection from my area. They help a lot when doing restoritive work. Just for profiles!

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You can't solve you're problems with the same level of thinking that created the problems.

Albert Einstein

King of Crown

I am just glad someone discovered electricity.

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Real nice guys

Teetorbilt

We'd all be working a lot harder for our meal ticket!

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You can't solve you're problems with the same level of thinking that created the problems.

Albert Einstein

Robie

Yup, I have quite a few of my great, great grandfather's tools, including a lot of molding planes. He worked as a trim carpenter at the Library of Congress in 1887.

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If you have integrity, nothing else matters. If you don't have integrity, nothing else matters. ~Alan Simpson

King of Crown

That is pretty awesome.

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Cashking63

Check this out, if I am reading correctly

http://www.garymkatz.com/TrimTechniq...ck_return.html

orson

I agree that learning how carpentry used to be accomplished is interesting and can be essential if doing restoration work. I think that as far as modern carpentry goes there is one essential rule that has held true for many decades which is always try not to leave end grain exposed. I am as guilty as anyone when I'm trimming the top of the basement steps in a spec house etc. of leaving end grain exposed, however, the right way to do it is to always return end grain to the wall/trim or run it into a plinth or molding edge.

www.rubycon.us
Ruby Construction LLC
Lancaster Kitchen Remodeling
Lancaster Bathroom Remodeling

Tom R

I rarely, rarely, if ever, allow base to plane out farther than casing.

Packing out the casing looks much better, - - using thicker jambs or jamb extensions, - - according to what point you're starting the job from.

And plinths are there for the base to 'die' into, - - so it should always be thicker.

Although I don't particularly like Gary's 'option' there (no disrespect intended), - - I guess it can still be considered a choice for some. To each his own.

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orson

I have to agree with Tom on this one, casing and baseboard should be chosen that work together. I have run into situations where custom milled baseboard was the exact same thickness at the bottom as the custom milled casing. In this case I run a power planer across the bottom back of the baseboard until it's thickest edge drops back behind the edge of the casing. But if the baseboard is actually wider than the casing I would say pick a new baseboard or a new casing, or, like Tom said add another layer to the casing.

www.rubycon.us
Ruby Construction LLC
Lancaster Kitchen Remodeling
Lancaster Bathroom Remodeling

skymaster

What I do in that situation is to just cut back that little bit of base sticking out same as you do shoe.I never worked for a builder that would pay for any thing that wasnt fast fast and cheeeeeeeeeeeeep. However that is a way around it.

clampman

Well I certainly agree with Tom and Orson. But Skymaster is certainly right about builders other than very high end work, and I too would do as Sky does as opposed to a returned base and shoe. I think Sky's approach looks the less of two evils.

Plinths really don't cost all that much, especially when you consider that you can't get two casing legs out of a 3 1/2" x 14 footer, unless you want to cut the bottoms off all the doors. So you got to use a 16 and throw away almost 2 feet. So the plinths aren't in addition to the casing, they are instead of it. Because if you use plinths you can easily get two legs out of a 14 fooer.

Also, you can cut all your casing legs off stops at identical lengths - then make up the minor differences with the plinths.

Orson,
If you have a good table saw, and any thickness plane and are working for a deserving homeowner (or your own house), you can take a traditional 6 1/4" base, rip the cap off keeping all the kerf in the flat bottom section. Then you'll have to run the cap over the table saw on edge to make the little groove in the bottom go deeper toward the backside of the molding.

Then take your cap and set a short piece on top of the flat part of the base, moving it proud of the base till you think it's just a little too proud to look good. Then run the base through the thickness plane taking off the amount it sticks proud of the cap on the back side.

Apply to the walls. When you add the shoe to the bottom, the cap will look dynomite. I was lucky that I hardly ever had to apply one piece base - my cap was always separate - except in my own house. It is much cheaper to do it the way I described (and looks the same as two piece) , because molder time for a $200,000 molder is by the linear foot. You are paying twice for a separate cap and base.

Do a short piece sometime and check out the look. So much nicer than one piece.

Cheers,
Jim

xkempx

now that looks very set at a 22 1/2. i never seen that on trim,
thank for the tip cashking63