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#1 |
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Registered User
Trade: General Construction
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 14
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Oak Handrail - Connecting Easings & Returns
What methods/tricks are you using to connect easings and returns, particularly at a 30-45 degree elbow at a mid landing? Do you toenail screws/nails underneath/backside or just use a dowel lock screw or and finish sand any overlap, or is it easier to use a rail bolt despite the angle?
What's your preferred glue/epoxy for end joints? |
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#2 |
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Pro
Trade: remodeling general contractor
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 670
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Re: Oak Handrail - Connecting Easings & Returns
As much as I hate them, I still use rail bolts for all my connections. I have tried various things, but none provide as solid a connection. Toe nailing is not strong enough for rail connections, and I have not found a way to end up with a decent looking finish after using a toe screw. Tried trim head screws, but they snap off way too easy in an oak rail for me.
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#3 |
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Builder/Remodeler
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Re: Oak Handrail - Connecting Easings & Returns
I agree, rail bolts are the tightest, strongest method.
LJs "Connect-A-Kit" fittings make this a lot easier.
__________________
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#4 |
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Pro
Trade: Railing
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Cincinnati
Posts: 700
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Re: Oak Handrail - Connecting Easings & Returns
I tried the LJS system, with the plows, 1/4" lag bolts, all the fillet pieces. I found it awkward, hard to keep alignment, difficult to get a tight joint joint, & didn't like the finished look. I prefer the fasteners being square. That way, you don't have to worry about shifting the joint when tightening the bolts.
I use the tried & true 5/16" hanger bolts with a std hex nut, & std washer. I prefer a flat washer to the half moon washers. I simply take a sharp 1/4" chisel & scrape a flat for the washer to seat against, inside the 1" bore. It only takes a few seconds. That way you can easily adjust the joint, & it stays put when you tighten the joint. Dry fit joints first. For glue, I like Titebond III. Coat joint, wait about 1 minute, & then recoat for the best joint. If you need more glue after nut is on, loosen joint a little, slide a piece of glue coated paper in joint. Joe |
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#5 |
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Pro
Trade: Railing
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Cincinnati
Posts: 700
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Re: Oak Handrail - Connecting Easings & Returns
I forgot to mention the wrench. I take a std 1/2" box wrench to the grinder & thin it way down around the curve, & into the handle flat portion for maximum nut turning degrees. It doesn't need to be that strong for wood.
Joe |
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#6 |
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Pro
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Re: Oak Handrail - Connecting Easings & Returns
Railman I agree with everything you said.... thanks for the tip with the washer. I'm going to try that tomorrow. I've never liked the half moon washers.
Anybody ever try the Ivis system? I bought one, and it does work like magic.... but... the fasteners are EIGHT DOLLARS a connection! Once I ran out of the 30 that come with the system, I went back to the free rail bolts that come with the fittings. Originally the salesman said he was going to include a Invis connector with each fitting because I bought the system.... never happened. Turned out to be a sales pitch I guess. |
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#7 |
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Registered User
Trade: General Construction
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 14
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Re: Oak Handrail - Connecting Easings & Returns
Haven't tried it yet, but was thinking of drilling/installing the rail bolt, then using Fastcaps 2p-10 adhesive to instantly bond the joint which would give just enough time to line up pieces before it sets, then install the washer and nut. Has anyone tried this yet or is there some disadvantage to using the 2p-10? I typically use Titebond, but the 2p-10 seems like a better solution unless it will soak into the end grain too much and not provide as good of a glue joint?
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#8 | |
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Pro
Trade: remodeling general contractor
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 670
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Re: Oak Handrail - Connecting Easings & ReturnsQuote:
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#9 | |
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Pro
Trade: remodeling general contractor
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 670
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Re: Oak Handrail - Connecting Easings & ReturnsQuote:
The glue coated paper trick sounds neat, will have to rmember that one. Sorry guys, I don't know how the first attempt at this got so messed up, then I could not delete it. Hope any moderaters around will get rid of it. Thanks. |
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#10 |
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Pro
Trade: Residential Contractor
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Jensen Beach, FL
Posts: 10,475
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Re: Oak Handrail - Connecting Easings & Returns
Epoxy and a Kreg tool with plugs works fine for me.
__________________
You can't solve you're problems with the same level of thinking that created the problems. Albert Einstein |
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#11 |
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Pro
Trade: Finish Carpentry
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Michigan
Posts: 202
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Re: Oak Handrail - Connecting Easings & Returns
Thats gotta be pretty. Rail bolts , I used a pneumatic gun that shot a tapered wedge type fastener but it was stolen out of the van and cost to much to replace so back to the good old bolts.
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#12 |
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Registered User
Trade: CARPENTER
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 1
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Re: Oak Handrail - Connecting Easings & Returns
Senco sells a spline gun. It shoots a flat staple like fastener that curls on each side. If you do alot of rails, this is the only way to go. Glue each end and shoot two splines at each side and the bottom. The hold is incredible. Haven't used a rail bolt in eight years.
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#13 |
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Member
Trade: general contractor
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: mn mayo
Posts: 61
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Re: Oak Handrail - Connecting Easings & Returns
dovetail make a good solid joint every time you betterthe more u use it
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