Oak Handrail - Connecting Easings & Returns

 
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Old 02-23-2008, 11:15 AM   #1
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Oak Handrail - Connecting Easings & Returns


What methods/tricks are you using to connect easings and returns, particularly at a 30-45 degree elbow at a mid landing? Do you toenail screws/nails underneath/backside or just use a dowel lock screw or and finish sand any overlap, or is it easier to use a rail bolt despite the angle?

What's your preferred glue/epoxy for end joints?

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Old 02-23-2008, 10:22 PM   #2
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Re: Oak Handrail - Connecting Easings & Returns


As much as I hate them, I still use rail bolts for all my connections. I have tried various things, but none provide as solid a connection. Toe nailing is not strong enough for rail connections, and I have not found a way to end up with a decent looking finish after using a toe screw. Tried trim head screws, but they snap off way too easy in an oak rail for me.
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Old 02-23-2008, 10:43 PM   #3
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Re: Oak Handrail - Connecting Easings & Returns


I agree, rail bolts are the tightest, strongest method.

LJs "Connect-A-Kit" fittings make this a lot easier.
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Old 02-24-2008, 12:43 AM   #4
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Re: Oak Handrail - Connecting Easings & Returns


I tried the LJS system, with the plows, 1/4" lag bolts, all the fillet pieces. I found it awkward, hard to keep alignment, difficult to get a tight joint joint, & didn't like the finished look. I prefer the fasteners being square. That way, you don't have to worry about shifting the joint when tightening the bolts.

I use the tried & true 5/16" hanger bolts with a std hex nut, & std washer. I prefer a flat washer to the half moon washers. I simply take a sharp 1/4" chisel & scrape a flat for the washer to seat against, inside the 1" bore. It only takes a few seconds. That way you can easily adjust the joint, & it stays put when you tighten the joint. Dry fit joints first.

For glue, I like Titebond III. Coat joint, wait about 1 minute, & then recoat for the best joint. If you need more glue after nut is on, loosen joint a little, slide a piece of glue coated paper in joint.
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Old 02-24-2008, 12:49 AM   #5
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Re: Oak Handrail - Connecting Easings & Returns


I forgot to mention the wrench. I take a std 1/2" box wrench to the grinder & thin it way down around the curve, & into the handle flat portion for maximum nut turning degrees. It doesn't need to be that strong for wood.
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Old 02-24-2008, 09:09 AM   #6
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Re: Oak Handrail - Connecting Easings & Returns


Railman I agree with everything you said.... thanks for the tip with the washer. I'm going to try that tomorrow. I've never liked the half moon washers.

Anybody ever try the Ivis system? I bought one, and it does work like magic.... but... the fasteners are EIGHT DOLLARS a connection! Once I ran out of the 30 that come with the system, I went back to the free rail bolts that come with the fittings. Originally the salesman said he was going to include a Invis connector with each fitting because I bought the system.... never happened. Turned out to be a sales pitch I guess.
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Old 02-24-2008, 10:47 AM   #7
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Re: Oak Handrail - Connecting Easings & Returns


Haven't tried it yet, but was thinking of drilling/installing the rail bolt, then using Fastcaps 2p-10 adhesive to instantly bond the joint which would give just enough time to line up pieces before it sets, then install the washer and nut. Has anyone tried this yet or is there some disadvantage to using the 2p-10? I typically use Titebond, but the 2p-10 seems like a better solution unless it will soak into the end grain too much and not provide as good of a glue joint?
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Old 02-24-2008, 06:40 PM   #8
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Re: Oak Handrail - Connecting Easings & Returns


Quote:
Originally Posted by Railman View Post
. That way, you don't have to worry about shifting the joint when tightening the bolts.
I drive two 4d finishing nails into the end of the rail and snip them off about 1/16" or so, to act as little dowels when I pull the joint together. To help alignment, I use an edge banding c clamp (3 screws) to clamp a couple of little rips of wood to the top and both sides of the rail as guides.

If you need more glue after nut is on, loosen joint a little, slide a piece of glue coated paper in joint.
Joe
Neat trick,. Have to remember that one.
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Old 02-24-2008, 06:49 PM   #9
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Re: Oak Handrail - Connecting Easings & Returns


Quote:
Originally Posted by Railman View Post
That way, you don't have to worry about shifting the joint when tightening the bolts.

If you need more glue after nut is on, loosen joint a little, slide a piece of glue coated paper in joint.
Joe
To help with shifting, I drive two 4d finish nails into the rail end and then snip them off about 1/16" long, to act as little dowel pins. I also use an edge banding c clamp (3 screws) to clamp three little rips , top and each side of the rail) as alignment guides.

The glue coated paper trick sounds neat, will have to rmember that one.

Sorry guys, I don't know how the first attempt at this got so messed up, then I could not delete it. Hope any moderaters around will get rid of it. Thanks.
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Old 02-24-2008, 06:56 PM   #10
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Re: Oak Handrail - Connecting Easings & Returns


Epoxy and a Kreg tool with plugs works fine for me.
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Old 02-25-2008, 08:36 PM   #11
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Re: Oak Handrail - Connecting Easings & Returns


Thats gotta be pretty. Rail bolts , I used a pneumatic gun that shot a tapered wedge type fastener but it was stolen out of the van and cost to much to replace so back to the good old bolts.
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Old 02-29-2008, 07:06 AM   #12
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Re: Oak Handrail - Connecting Easings & Returns


Senco sells a spline gun. It shoots a flat staple like fastener that curls on each side. If you do alot of rails, this is the only way to go. Glue each end and shoot two splines at each side and the bottom. The hold is incredible. Haven't used a rail bolt in eight years.
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Old 02-29-2008, 07:19 AM   #13
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Re: Oak Handrail - Connecting Easings & Returns


dovetail make a good solid joint every time you betterthe more u use it
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Old 02-29-2008, 01:38 PM   #14
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Re: Oak Handrail - Connecting Easings & Returns


thanks teetorbilt, one more use for pocket screws. gotta love um

Last edited by wink; 02-29-2008 at 01:38 PM. Reason: spelt teetorbilt wrong
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