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Old 09-03-2009, 10:43 AM   #41
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Re: New To Me.


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Can it reach a wire or pipe?
surely THAT would never happen!

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Old 09-03-2009, 11:07 AM   #42
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Re: New To Me.


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Originally Posted by AA Handyman View Post
point taken sir.

but what if you have a BAD KID at home and this little mofo likes to hang from the TOP and swing? Huhh? didnt think of that one, hum?

suuner of later, u gonna have to go out there and pick up your cabinets that you installed with 2 INCH SREWS!

Standard operating procedure for us is a 2 1/2" screw. And thats after the cabinet is already resting on a 1/2" hanging cleat.

Let the little rat hang from the cabinet. He'll rip the bloody door off first and then I have something to spank his ass with.
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Old 09-03-2009, 11:12 AM   #43
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Re: New To Me.


I love GRK's. I even got a free shirt and hat from my rep.

Their screws are meant to be used anywhere in anything.

Torx heads spank square drives ass!!
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Thanks for that tidbit of information Darcy.
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Old 09-03-2009, 11:13 AM   #44
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Re: New To Me.


Quote:
Originally Posted by AA Handyman View Post
point taken sir.

but what if you have a BAD KID at home and this little mofo likes to hang from the TOP and swing? Huhh? didnt think of that one, hum?

suuner of later, u gonna have to go out there and pick up your cabinets that you installed with 2 INCH SREWS!





The snapping strength of the screw is more important that the depth of the penetration into the stud. 1" or 1 1/2" into the stud isn't going to make much of a difference when you have lateral forces on the screw. The screw will likely never pull out, but it may break. Most screws are rated at at least 250lbs each. And most cabinets will have at least 2 screws in them, top and bottom, plus being attached to the cabinets on either side of it.

I don't see a screw pulling out anytime soon. Pulling through the back of the cabinet or pulling the cabinet apart is a more likely scenario. Especially with some of the construction I have seen on the box cabinets. 1/8" backs and 1/2" stretchers held on my hot melt glue and cheap staples that look like they are meant to hold paper together.
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Old 09-03-2009, 12:23 PM   #45
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Re: New To Me.


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Do you guys pre-drill on face-frames for the GRK's? I'm a chicken, so I always pre-drill. I usually use these clamps (only ever done face-frame cabs).

bueller? anyone, anyone?
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Old 09-03-2009, 12:31 PM   #46
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Re: New To Me.


I dont have too much need to pre-drill with thier screws. Sometimes you have to, most times not.
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Thanks for that tidbit of information Darcy.
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Old 09-03-2009, 12:35 PM   #47
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Re: New To Me.


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I dont have too much need to pre-drill with thier screws. Sometimes you have to, most times not.
no predrill through faceframe? that's amazing.
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Old 09-03-2009, 12:45 PM   #48
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Re: New To Me.


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Originally Posted by Gus Dering View Post
You boys are missing what I consider the most important issue when selecting a screw length to hang a cabinet.

Can it reach a wire or pipe?

If you have 3/4" cabinet parts (1/4" back, 1/2" nailer) and 1/2" drywall that is 1 1/4" to face of stud.

Lets say the stud is 2x4. You won't have a nail plate to protect the wire or pipe if it is close to the middle of the stud. So there could easily be a wire 1 1/2" from face of stud.

That is 2 3/4" from the inside of my cabinet. A 3" screw is like playing Russian roulette.

We carry all the screws and use them all but you have to think about what you might be reaching.

I have seen people run to long a screw into plumbing pipes in kitchens more times than i can remember. The main problem is most of the time you wont see a problem until the screw corrodes and leaks then by that time the whole kitchen has been finished.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Leo G View Post
Especially with some of the construction I have seen on the box cabinets. 1/8" backs and 1/2" stretchers held on my hot melt glue and cheap staples that look like they are meant to hold paper together.
Sounds just like the cabinets i launced across lowes sales floor the other day.
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Old 09-03-2009, 01:50 PM   #49
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Re: New To Me.


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I have seen people run to long a screw into plumbing pipes in kitchens more times than i can remember. The main problem is most of the time you wont see a problem until the screw corrodes and leaks then by that time the whole kitchen has been finished.




Sounds just like the cabinets i launced across lowes sales floor the other day.
I built a house in 94 and a trim nail in a piece of base hit a water pipe dead on straight.
Not a drip, not a hint there was a problem.

18 months later water was running down the pipe for 2 floors and showing up in the basement. Took that long to erode the nail enough for water to leak around it.

Took all day to find the leak. When the nail came out it was more than a drip.



I would pay money to see the tape of your visit to Lowes.

How did that meeting go for you?
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Old 09-03-2009, 02:16 PM   #50
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Re: New To Me.


Problem is, you can't trust what someone has done before you. If we gut a kitchen, it's no problem. We use those little metal blocking plates to cover any pipes/water/electric that may be an issue. We also mark problem areas after drywall is up (as a reminder).

However, if you don't tear out the drywall, you have no idea what some clown may have done back there. In that case, we do a cabinet layout on the wall and check all possible stud location with a scanner to test for metal/electric. We've had good luck, so far.

I like the GRK screws. I think the ones I use are very similar (Lexus to Infinity) but I'd try those too. We use various lengths depending on the situation and we even have silver and brass colored. For connecting face frames, when we can't hide the screws, we match color to the hinges. For hanging, we use brass because they look better as most of the interiors are maple. Silver sticks out too much. And yes, I have been know to not pre-drill when connecting frames. I rarely pre-drill for hanging.
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Old 09-03-2009, 02:18 PM   #51
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Re: New To Me.


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bueller? anyone, anyone?
I will sometimes predrill. If I do, it's just a small pilot hole, definitely not all the way through. I also use those pony clamps.
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Old 09-03-2009, 11:27 PM   #52
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Re: New To Me.


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no predrill through faceframe? that's amazing.

No doubt about that . Please tell me more .
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Old 09-04-2009, 12:47 AM   #53
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Re: New To Me.


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Torx heads spank square drives ass!!
Too many sizes, square is only 4 and atleast 90% of square drive are #1 or #2.

Torx can handle alot of torque, that being said XZN can take even more.
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Old 09-04-2009, 06:51 PM   #54
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Re: New To Me.


Huh? Most common, are 10, 15, 20, 25. Most are 15 or 20.
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Old 09-22-2009, 03:05 PM   #55
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Re: New To Me.


i would use 2 1/2s and glue some hope and maybe have a beer to forget the whole job i hate prefab cabs good luck brother
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