New To Me.

JLTrim

Amen... Be prepared to return at least once or twice to install what was screwed up on the first order. Go through everything and make sure you have the right boxes, correct finish, door/hardware styles, etc.

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S Winklepleck

That's funny, the HDs around here over-order on all trim and fill pieces... I guess they got tired of us b!tching

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-Steve

"I need the skilsaw." ... "Why did you bring me the drill box?" "It says S.A.W. on it." "Those are my initials."

D.Foster

Yeah,.. on one lowes kitchen the client ordered 1/4 sawn oak, all the doors and drawer front were 1/4 sawn,.. but none of the finish cab ends were 1/4 sawn!!!! And they said that they arent available on the end!!! i had to order doors and install them on the ends, actually didnt look too bad, just a pain in tha a$$!!

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katoman

Here's one for ya. A couple years ago, working on subdivision, the cabinet installers were doing one install a day. Thats kitchen cabinets, bath vanity, and tops. There were always deficiencies to repair.

So the builder complains to the company. They say they do have another installer, but he won't come unless there are 3 kitchens for him to install.

So he shows up with his wife. Well they installed all 3 kitchens, vanities, tops, in one day. Couldn't believe it. Not one deficiency anywhere. I signed them off at the end of the day.

And they were getting about $300/per install = $900/ day. Not too shaby.

angus242

The first (and LAST) HD order I installed was horrible. They measured wrong from the corner to where the oven opening was (couldn't move the hood vent). Had to reorder cabinet....took 6 weeks for replacement. Then (my fault for not checking ahead of time), they measured wrong for the stand-alone pantry. I ended up having to modify a 30"w x 24"d x 84"t cabinet myself.
Oh yeah, they sent the wrong under cabinet mldgs too. Since I couldn't wait, we modified what looked like crown to fit under the uppers.
HO never got any kind of credit for all the issues and time delays.

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DavidC

Very well put.

Good Luck
Dave

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cabinet runner

I am curious how you fasten the cabinets together with 1 1/4" screws . All the cabinets I install have 1 1/2 ' stiles . Unless they are frameless full overlay euro style which come with a male/female fastener setup . I use a 2 1/2' screw put into a predrilled countersunk holes to fasten the cabinets together . I know some installers go with 2'" screws for this task '
Is there a new way ?

cabinet runner

The cabinet showroom I install for supplies me with the screws to hang the cabinets (warranty issue) They are 2 1/2" long washer head screws .
In the past I have always used a 2 1/2" screw for this purpose .
The only time I have used longer is if there is double drywall or wallboard over 1/2" thick .

3 inch + seems like overkill to me .

angus242

I use these screws for hanging cabinets.



Use these for connecting cabinets.


Never have had any issues.

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mics_54

What I posted was

OBVIOUSLY if longer screws are needed ..I use longer screws. Also as OBVIOUSLY if I am screwing through face frames one to another..I would use longer screws.

WarnerConstInc.

Ohhhh, pretty screws. I am a GRK man myself, best screw out there.

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cabinet runner

Easy there . I wasn't insinuating you are doing anything wrong . Sounded like something different as to what I am used to so I asked .

Where I am I can never use 1 1/4 inch screws to fasten cabinets together unless I counter bore a hole into the stile .

So OBVIOUSLY I was curious . Thats all

cabinet runner

A little testy there ?

Might seem stupid to you but I install cabinets almost every day so an uneeded 1/2 inch extra length on an install screw can have me running and extra 50 inches of unessecary screws per install .

My wrist already hurts . I wasn't knocking anyone just trying to understand the reasoning for why someone does something a certain way .
Don't know about you but I am ALWAYS looking for the easiest most efficent way to my job . And if I can pass on some info that helps someone else do the same it's a good thing right ?

cabinet runner

The install screws I am supplied with are very similar to what you are using though a shiny silver finish . I use a McFeelys square drive #8 x 2 1/2" for connecting . This matches the #2 square drive on the install screws .
That is an interesting looking connecting screw . Star drive ? I found having both screws using the same driver makes my life easier . Your picture on my screen makes your install screw look like a round drive . LOL I'm sure it's not .

angus242

Both are #T25 bits. I made sure they are the same for the reason you stated.

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basswood

GRK's that Warner mentioned are really great. They are thinner, but stronger than other cab hanging screws. They run in easier and faster. I toss the screws supplied and use the GRK's. The washer heads of the GRK's are less bulky too, so they look almost flush.

I use GRK trimheads to connect faceframes. Most other choices look like you are doing cabinet work with deck screws. OK if you hide them with hinges, but most cabs have two hinges and I connect faceframes at top, middle and bottom.

http://www.grkfasteners.com/en/TRIM_0_information.htm

J F

Do you guys pre-drill on face-frames for the GRK's? I'm a chicken, so I always pre-drill. I usually use these clamps (only ever done face-frame cabs).

Gus Dering

You boys are missing what I consider the most important issue when selecting a screw length to hang a cabinet.

Can it reach a wire or pipe?

If you have 3/4" cabinet parts (1/4" back, 1/2" nailer) and 1/2" drywall that is 1 1/4" to face of stud.

Lets say the stud is 2x4. You won't have a nail plate to protect the wire or pipe if it is close to the middle of the stud. So there could easily be a wire 1 1/2" from face of stud.

That is 2 3/4" from the inside of my cabinet. A 3" screw is like playing Russian roulette.

We carry all the screws and use them all but you have to think about what you might be reaching.

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J F

velcro for the fro....the little mofo's will stay put

basswood

The GRK 2-1/2" cab screws will hold about 300 lbs each... the cabinet would tear off the mounting rail before the screw would pull out or break.

I do use 2-3/4" screws if the cab has a full thickness shim at the location of the screw.