Need Some Ideas...

KMac

I got a request from an interior decorator client of mine for a 12' high bookshelf that will be going into a loft condo. It would be frameless and paint grade and I will also be installing a library ladder they are going to supply. Usually i do FF built-ins and shelves and for anything over 8' I just build two separate units - usually cabinet below and open shelves above. This will be all open shelves. My question is what should I do to gain the height needed? If I join two pieces of ply how do i deal with the seam? Any ideas or thoughts would be much appreciated!

neolitic

1X1's to cover the raw ply edges?
Does she think that you can do
4' ¾" shelves with no apron, and
have them carry 300lbs of books
without sags?

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Gus Dering

There is not quite enough info to give specifics

How wide are we talking? How many bays?

Is there access trouble if you build full height in shop?

Are there finished ends? or wall to wall? Or wall to finished?

KMac

She does not want 1X she wants it "clean & modern". And it's funny you mention 4' wide shelves cause that is what she did want until I said no.

Gus Dering

Fixed shelves or adjustable?

KMac

The depth will be 12".

Will not be able to build this in shop - need to do on site - loft is on the 6th floor no need to go up in an elevator. I am doing a bunch of other things there anyway.

The unit will be approx. 4' wide and it will be wall to finished.

KMac

Adjustable 32mm system with of course as many fixed shelves as i need.

Gus Dering

Is she ok with 1 1/2" solid parts?

KMac

Probably - I doing some 2" thick "floating" shelves in another room.

Gus Dering

Do you have room to push 11' through a saw in the room?

neolitic

I'm talking about rips of the same
width as the ply thickness, to cover
the ripped edges of plywood.
At some point one must usually
attempt and introduction.
"Ms. Designer, Reality.
Reality, Ms. Designer.
Would the two of you like to
shake hands now?"

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KMac

No - I do have a TS55 but not a long enough guide rail.

KMac

Yeah - it's always a battle with them but this particular one has been keeping me afloat - i like to make her happy if at all possible.

neolitic

Sorry, bad taste in my mouth.
maybe a little whiskey later......

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KMac

Gus Dering

Sorry that took a while,
This is what I would probably do;
Check out the quick drawing I attatched.

I would do a face frame job but flush trim the finished end , the top , and the shelves to a double layer of 3/4" ply. The wall side would be 3/4" ply with the same 1 1/2" frame part but flush to the inside.
That gives the case a 1 1/2" solid look and the wall end has 3/4" for scribing.
You may want to put a fixed shelf in the center for support on the finished end side.
This is drawn with one bay. A little bigger than I would do.
Ok I'll draw one with 2. Be right back


11' bookcase.pdf

Gus Dering

Here you go, something like this anyway.
11' case 2 bay.pdf

The reason I was asking about the 11' through a saw is that the box parts would be easiest to laminate together with overlapping joints, With one side a little wider than the other and one nice straight edge.
Use that edge to trim the other side cutting both layers at once. Turn the whole thing around and trim to final width.
The quality of joint at the face frame will depend on how nice that double layer flushes up. Plus an ass load of clamps of course.

Gus Dering

Geez, I can't leave you kids alone for a minute.

KMac

Really great ideas gus - thank you very much.

Gus Dering

I hope it works for you.
One thing is for sure, it will be heavy as all hell. Get some help.
I hope you find the room to trim as I layed out too