Need Help With A Bullnose Corner With 8" Crown

jayweitekamp

I'm pulling my hair out trying to figure this out. The problem I am using 22.5 cuts with the bullnose corner in question. Now this bullnose transition into another wall but that transition is only 2 inches. The first piece of the bullnose collides with the right side of the 90 Degree inside corner after the 2 inch transition. According to my calculations the transition needs to be at least 4 inches deep so it doesn't collide.

Have any of you ever come accross this problem and if so what do you recommend. I have attached two images that show the problem.

A neighbor has the same house so I took a picture of some crown he had done but he wasn't using 8" but instead 6" so this corner worked for him (don't cringe too much at the seams on this one... not my work)

Any help would be greatly appreciated

Attached Thumbnails

     

orson

I think I would do a 90deg outside corner around the bullnose corner. It's the simplest solution that alleviates your problems. It does not look like the gap between the bullnose and the corner would be unreasonably large to fill.

It looks like on the neighbors house they used a combination of angles that added up to 90.

On the first cut starting from the left they did maybe 15deg mitres and on the second joint they did 30deg mitres. just a guess.

You could also use a hole saw to make a radiused plinth block on that corner. Not sure how that would look, but it's an idea.

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jeffaah

In this sitaution, I think going 90 degrees around the corner is the best solution. It would be nice to multiple miter around the radius, but your limited by the projection of the crown.

Tom R

In your last picture it's basically done right, - - just that the compound miters on the right are off a little. It doesn't really matter what the sizes are and how small the transition, - - once you figure out the correct compound angles they will fit together.

jeffaah

It may not jive....the 22 degree around the radius takes away space where the top of the cope would normally meet it. The spring angle may bring the top of the crown past the top of that little return.

It's tough for me to explain but it has alot to do with the length of the return, the angle of the return and the spring angle of the crown.

neolitic

Why not let the little return
(the third piece, 2nd 22-1/2)
die into the wall square cut
and cope the last piece?

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WarnerConstInc.

Duh Neo that would be too simple.

Another reason I dont like bull nose drywall corners.

orson

I think what he's saying is that when you cope the last piece the top of the cope exceeds the top edge of the piece you died into the wall, at least that's what I was seeing the pic where he holds up the piece w/ the uncoped 45deg on it.

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neolitic

Yeah, maybe it would have to be
just the one 45 and a cope.
Can't quite get a grip on the spring
against that silly little jog.


Make life simple when you can!

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rbsremodeling

I got a hundred bucks that says he doesn't own a coping saw

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anthonyadam13

Would making the bottom point of the transition piece narrower,( it looks like 3/4 right now), to maybe 1/4 of an inch gain you any space on the upper rail? Even if it came to a point and you had that gap at the bottom the top part of the crown will give it a rounded look. Please post pics if you get this one, it would be one for the file.

Tom R

I will always jive if it's done right with the correct angles, - - doesn't matter how tight it is, - - just that one or more pieces may not have both a top and bottom, - - and any piece adjacent to such pieces would both have to have 'double' compound miter cuts.

You don't have to try to explain it to me, - - I've done it.

(If I can do it, - - and you can't, - - I would be the one who would owe the explanation).

Jason Whipple

For what it's worth; I think the last picture looks like chit. Doesn't follow the radius or angle and doesn't look symmetric at the top.

I've only trimmed out one house with these corners. The specs from the Architect had us cut 90's in these corners. I remember installing a filler piece that went behind. Where you get them, I don't know. I do know that we put a lot of them in so they're out there somewhere. They could easily be made with a hole saw and a chop saw too.

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Tom R

You're right, - - it's way off, - - but the basic idea is there, - - no doubt he needs to fudge the angles.

And it's not symmetrical at the top because it's not a symmetrical turn/jog, - - and it's symmetry or lack thereof is also partially dictated by the crown's inherent projection . . .

Jason Whipple

Even if you went with 10's, 15's, or 30's, I think it would be tough to gage the length of the cut around that corner (not impossible though).

If this were a really high end job I would've had the outside corners pre-made with an elliptical shaper. If not high end/high dollar, 90 it and fill it. (unless it's your own house and you have time to twittle)

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Tom R

Yah, - - time consuming for one little jog in the wall, - - but I think what would look best (and closest to symmetrical) in this instance, - - would be 3 transition pieces, - - two (22 1/2's) to make the turn, - - and one (22 1/2 outside left and 45 inside right) to equalize the remaining distance and the tops.

orson

If it makes the OP feel any better SketchUp couldn't make the pieces right either.



It does show how there would only be a tiny bit of the piece in the corner showing and that you would have to cut your cope to transition between 2 different profiles.

I'll try Tom's method in a bit, I can only take so much SketchUp before it wears my patience.

Would be helpful to know the spring angle too.

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Tom R

Prob'ly just the standard 38* . . .

jeffaah

I agree it can be made to work as you suggested above. I was trying to avoid coping into 2 separate pieces of the return.

Tom R

Yeah, it gets to a point where how much time do you want to spend on a 2' jog in the wall, - - but the other way I suggested with the 3 pieces should be fairly straight-forward (and actually the technically correct way to do it) and not too time consuming . . .